Worst “Mod” I’ve Done: Aftermarket Bed Bolts

OP
OP
MAMiller44

MAMiller44

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Posts
430
Reaction score
586
Location
Tampa, FL
You replacement bolts were stainless? 10.9 would be steel, we’ll an alloy or whatever, but then usually zinc coated I think yours would be yellow zinc.

I’m not a corrosion specialist but I would imagine HDG and yellow zinc wouldn’t be too far off on the galvanic scale.

Did you reuse the original frame clips when you swapped bolts or did you do new ones?
New ones from a ford parts department so they are truly OEM.
 

amREADY

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2019
Posts
335
Reaction score
275
Location
Victoria, BC
So are the nuts, they are not fully welded on the clips so they are likely to break off upon removing. I had 1 of 4 break off the first time I removed them. This is the only issue you typically face with the factory hardware, but once you figure out how to get a hold of each nut, they still come off with relative ease. This time, all of the aftermarket bolts were completely seized on them which was way worse of an issue.


Yup, exactly. That’s why I mentioned in the first post if you NEED to go aftermarket for the length, just take the time to make modifications to use bolts that are the same material/grade. The benefit to the factory nuts is that they’re still removable and mostly accessible. It would be nearly impossible without two well communicating people to use a normal nut though lol

Mine were KHC, again the issue is not the bolts themselves. It’s that they are a different material than the nuts and this causes horrible corrosion.

if you need longer ones to mount a rack or some type of carrier to. This was my use but I actually didn’t need longer ones. There’s gotta be a solid extra 3/4” on them to play with. This is why factory ford supplied accessories that need additional space between the bolt head and bed still use the factory bolts. People will also say it’s for ease of future removal having a bolt head instead of a T50 Torx bit but you’ll run into this issue if you actually do that. Just get yourself an impact T50 1/2” drive bit and you’ll be good.
Torx Plus 50 not Torx 50... just saying. I pulled mine using a regular Torx because I didn't realize they were Torx Plus. I was realllly careful because the fit wasn't perfect which is why I looked it up - after. You can use regular Torx on a Torx plus, but run the risk of stripping it at higher torques.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
MAMiller44

MAMiller44

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Posts
430
Reaction score
586
Location
Tampa, FL
Torx Plus 50 not Torx 50... just saying. I pulled mine using a regular Torx because I didn't realize they were Torx Plus. I was realllly careful because the fit wasn't perfect which is why I looked it up - after. You can use regular Torx on a Torx plus, but run the risk of stripping it at higher torques.
Correct. I forget sometimes because I don't even have a T50, just my T50+ with the rest of my torx bits. Raptor bed bolts are the only time I've ever needed a plus bit, and I've never needed a normal T50 for anything else lol
 

Ellison3

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Posts
138
Reaction score
86
Location
Arizona
It is absolutely dissimilar metal corrosion, only the threading right near the nut corroded. In the original pic the factory galvanized bolt is the gray one. The grade 10.9 SS bolts with the head grinded off are aftermarket with the factory galvanized nuts seized on.
That’s what I thought. I’m a helicopter avionics/ electrical technician; so corrosion is not exactly my field of expertise. However, I do work with sheet metal guys. That’s who taught me about different, and like metals, and how they react to each other. When I saw the pics, corrosion, and different metals the past explanations started coming to mind.
 
OP
OP
MAMiller44

MAMiller44

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2020
Posts
430
Reaction score
586
Location
Tampa, FL
That’s what I thought. I’m a helicopter avionics/ electrical technician; so corrosion is not exactly my field of expertise. However, I do work with sheet metal guys. That’s who taught me about different, and like metals, and how they react to each other. When I saw the pics, corrosion, and different metals the past explanations started coming to mind.
Yup I work in commercial construction management and we see it a lot there too. Even in controlled indoor environments it's prevalent. That's why there's new code requirements popping up such has having to put anti-corrosion tape on sprinkler piping (black steel) is in contact with electrical conduit (galvanized).
 

Antho

FRF Addict
Joined
Apr 12, 2019
Posts
1,508
Reaction score
1,896
Location
Texas
What a pain. I used the factory bolts for my RPG chase rack. RPG sent something that looked similar to what you had.
 

Oldfart

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 21, 2017
Posts
4,690
Reaction score
10,103
Location
Saggy Balls Division of Trump Army
Yup I work in commercial construction management and we see it a lot there too. Even in controlled indoor environments it's prevalent. That's why there's new code requirements popping up such has having to put anti-corrosion tape on sprinkler piping (black steel) is in contact with electrical conduit (galvanized).
I learned about galvanic corrosion the hard way, back when I first started really getting into boats. The first time I saw it I had no idea what could make such crazy/severe corrosion on a bolt! I had seen a few mild cases on bikes, but nothing near what the boats could do.
 

Ellison3

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2022
Posts
138
Reaction score
86
Location
Arizona
I have the KHC bolts on my truck. I've removed them a couple of times. To add D-Rings and torqued them 59 lbs. No issues so far, but interesting regardless. More and more I think about it, all mods are not always worth it.
Especially the mods that negates a previously done mod. Case in point… the Full Race oil catch can I bought. Since I have an Expedition a little finesse went into it’s mounting/ and PCV system integration. All said, and done, it worked great!!! I also drilled/ plugged the intercooler to rid it of contamination.

Then, I decided I needed get the Freak-O-Boost intercooler kit. That previous intercooler mod was a waste of time/ money. The biggest waste was the oil catch can!!! It’s function was negated when I installed the new intercooler kit; came with a TurboSmart BOV. Now all that crap gets dumped before making it to the catch can.

Live and learn…
 
Top