Wiring in Relays

[Mariner]

Okay here's the back of the crown switch and the wiring diagram.

And using a relay, I'd like to either tap off the rear heated seat fuse, or find another switchable power source so the lights turn off with the ignition. I don't want power to the switch when the truck is off, and that's the biggest thing I'd like to accomplish regardless of how messy the wiring has to be to make it work.

 

[Dane]

Oh, is the switch illuminated then?

 

[Mariner]

Oh, is the switch illuminated then?

Yessir

 

[MILRTME]

Dumb question maybe/ and not trying to hack this thread but we have a fuse for rear heated seats!? So it wouldn't be that difficult to wire up factory rear heated seats into our trucks?

Curious...


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[2014RubyRed]

Dumb question maybe/ and not trying to hack this thread but we have a fuse for rear heated seats!? So it wouldn't be that difficult to wire up factory rear heated seats into our trucks?

Curious...


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Theoretically you could install every option that Ford offers on our trucks as the fuse panels, and I believe the wire looms, are all the same throughout all models.

 

[Mariner]

Okay wizards, I referenced a bunch of drawings and came to this conclusion. Theoretically this should work, meaning when the truck is off, there's no power to the switch. Agree?

 

[Dane]

Okay wizards, I referenced a bunch of drawings and came to this conclusion. Theoretically this should work, meaning when the truck is off, there's no power to the switch. Agree?

I think your left two connections are reversed, based on your switch diagram from earlier.

Other than that, yes - acting on the assumption that the rear seat heater power IS actually hot and only when the ignition it activated. Probably a safe assumption, but I'd take a multi-meter to it!

 

[Ironhorse07]

That should work.

 

[Mariner]

I think your left two connections are reversed, based on your switch diagram from earlier.

Other than that, yes - acting on the assumption that the rear seat heater power IS actually hot and only when the ignition it activated. Probably a safe assumption, but I'd take a multi-meter to it!

I know my fuse tap is only hot when the key is on because I checked with a multi meter before and that's how I've recently been running those lights lol.

So I need to swap the red and yellow wires on the switch? The 12V switched label for the yellow wire is referring to the relay? And the +12V for the red wire is referring to the rear heated seat fuse tap?

---------- Post added at 07:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:00 PM ----------

Like this? Never mind that fuse block. I just saw that in a drawing somewhere and I wanted to brainstorm with it.

 

[Dane]

I know my fuse tap is only hot when the key is on because I checked with a multi meter before and that's how I've recently been running those lights lol.

So I need to swap the red and yellow wires on the switch? The 12V switched label for the yellow wire is referring to the relay? And the +12V for the red wire is referring to the rear heated seat fuse tap?

Cool, then you already checked and that's fine.
Yeah, the way I'm reading it is that the 12v red line is your hot line - in this case the one coming from your heated seat fuse.

It may actually also work the way you drew it - but I'm not sure with the illuminated switch. Per your drawing, I think the CORRECT way is as I've described.