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I don’t think your calculation represents what happening.The answer is:
You’re close and you have 2 variables here.
The truck voltage at KOEO / while the truck is running
the voltage B/D calculates the current draw at.
( I know, this is a very simplistic example )
Understanding how voltage and phase affects amperage draw and horsepower output can help you avoid increase power demands and worse, motor failure.www.marchpump.com
because when voltage drops, current draw can go up.
so using an ohm’s law calculator - extreme examples, if I have 12v 8.5a I have 102w of power. at 14.4v, 8.5a we have 122.4
I’m not even bringing up resistance and voltage drop here.
before it gets out of hand - and I already need to top off my pint, you’re close enough that a relay is inexpensive insurance for the up fitter circuit.
Wire in a relay. I don’t know if I’d go as far as a relay for every up fitter, but if it’s close, it’s worth it to have the added precaution.
I would like to run 2 BD S8 10” lights off the Gen 3 Aux 1 switch (previously the inner fog.)
Aux 1 is 10 amp rated
BD rates each S8 10” at 4.2 amp
*I will not be using the backlight feature*
Obviously 4.2 x 2 = 8.4 amps, which is below the 10 amp rating for Aux 1, but it’s close.
Good idea or bad idea?
@Nex @smurfslayer @The Car Stereo Company @Baja Designs
as stated, use relays. im even more cautious as to use relays at 75% the amperage rating. also, the guage of wire is just as important. minimum of 16ga wire and 12 to 14 for longer runs. you lose power through heat and too small of wire will generate too much heat. feel free to text me and i can give you a complete layout and explain how it works and answer any questions you have (831) 254-7562
let’s not get all amped up here.except most newer vehicles dont go above 14 now....... jeez watt were thinking?