Will weight of a bed rack help back end issues?

[lateralis]

So the problem is that the rear gets a lot of axle wrap. The stock rear springs do a pretty bad job for keeping the rear end located on where it needs to be under load. Lower rear tire pressure helps SOME, deavers or icons help a lot and after that you are looking at some sort of traction bar. Personally I run a KHC Torque arm that is effectively traction bars and that combined with about 36# rear and 38# front my truck is stays really planted. I haven't noticed any wheel hop at any speeds with the torque arm and I'm still on stock springs.

 

[Jonesy_PNW]

So the problem is that the rear gets a lot of axle wrap. The stock rear springs do a pretty bad job for keeping the rear end located on where it needs to be under load. Lower rear tire pressure helps SOME, deavers or icons help a lot and after that you are looking at some sort of traction bar. Personally I run a KHC Torque arm that is effectively traction bars and that combined with about 36# rear and 38# front my truck is stays really planted. I haven't noticed any wheel hop at any speeds with the torque arm and I'm still on stock springs.

10:4 I will change the tire pressure and go from there I think I am running whatever the door calls for. I have seen a few guys around the area that swear by the KHC torque arm. I'd rather do that then replace the springs I think? Or is the be all solve all replacement leaf springs? Most will probably say both LOL.

 

[GCATX]

Hey guys,

Hopefully I don't get flamed for rezzing an old thread. But I have been experiencing some issues at highway speed with the truck. I just put on the ADD rack with my new tent. To compensate for the rear end sag I swapped the factory block with a 4" from Readylift. Truck sits great and is exactly what I wanted.

However, at highway speed (60mph-80mph) the rear end feels like it shakes. I have tried to do as much research here to see if other owners are experiencing this same thing. We've had a lot of warranties with the BFG KO2 at my store and I just had them rebalanced. The tire shop that did it said that one tire did have a small "hop" to it but nothing crazy. It seemed to help a little but it's annoying enough to where it sucks to drive it at those speeds. I spent 8 hours in the truck yesterday driving from one side of WA to the other and it was present the whole damn time. Again, steering wheel is tight with no wobble but you can feel it right under the seat. Some roads are better than others.

1) Is the spring swap in order now? ICON
2) Do the tires need to be changed to something else? Higher load range? We've taken off KO2s before on vehicles and swapped to like a TOYO and the vibrations disappeared.

Going from a 2" block to a 4" block is not going to help handling or wheel hop in any manner.

 

[lateralis]

10:4 I will change the tire pressure and go from there I think I am running whatever the door calls for. I have seen a few guys around the area that swear by the KHC torque arm. I'd rather do that then replace the springs I think? Or is the be all solve all replacement leaf springs? Most will probably say both LOL.

If you are running around with a decent amount of weight in the back and using a 4" block to level the truck, you are just flattening out the stock springs. Unfortunately stock raptor leaf springs just don't do well with a bunch of weight in the back. You should look at getting deavers or icons to handle the extra weight in the bed. This will eliminate the blocks and help reduce axle wrap a lot. If you need more past that than look at traction bars/ torque arm.

I use a torque arm alone for now just because I don't run around loaded and I haven't lifted my truck yet. When I do lift it though it will be deavers and eibachs.

 

[Jonesy_PNW]

Going from a 2" block to a 4" block is not going to help handling or wheel hop in any manner.

100% aware for sure. Didn't think the springs were going to be as "weak" as they are but obviously they aren't the best. The block was merely a temp solution as ICON springs are on B/O till November....#buzzkill

If you are running around with a decent amount of weight in the back and using a 4" block to level the truck, you are just flattening out the stock springs. Unfortunately stock raptor leaf springs just don't do well with a bunch of weight in the back. You should look at getting deavers or icons to handle the extra weight in the bed. This will eliminate the blocks and help reduce axle wrap a lot. If you need more past that than look at traction bars/ torque arm.

I use a torque arm alone for now just because I don't run around loaded and I haven't lifted my truck yet. When I do lift it though it will be deavers and eibachs.

10:4 on this. Still have been doing much research and I think the springs to start will be a game changer. I saw you were posting a ton within the KHC post where a lot of guys were having issues with the fitment/etc on those bars. Seemed to be more than what I truly need as the springs would be the proper change and then evaluate from there.

Appreciate the input from everyone. You guys are great.

 

[lateralis]

Also don't forget if you do go with springs you need to address the bump stops at the same time. There are cheapo non hydraulic bump stop options out there but either way you're going to need something since the stock ones are not going to work anymore once you replace the leaf springs. This is the major reason why I haven't gone about doing that yet since I'll just go straight to hydraulic bumps at that point. So instead of like 1400 ish for just leaf springs it could go all the way up to 3k just to get the rear set up properly.