Who has actually trimmed to clear 37s?

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Clockton

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I've read different opinions and talked to a couple shops that have told me different things, but who has actually trimmed to clear 37s? It seems that the pinch weld needs to be cut or bent, but to what extent? I have been told it needs to be bent all the way up (doesn't seem right) and I have been told that it needs to be cut off up about 4 inches from the bottom because it is too hard to bend. So who has actually done it successfully and what did you do?

37 KO2s with Kings. plastic trimming only

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murph145

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^ crazy how that 6mm difference in wheel fitment will save a lot of problems. Unfortunately I have 0 offset and I'm afraid to see what would happen to my rear fenders with 37s
 

BBLV

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I just put on Innov8 wheels (17x9 +0) with Toyo RT 37x12.5x17 tires. Also have Geisers and +3 Deavers. I had decent rubbing and massaged the plastic back with a heatgun. Just warmed the plastic and tightly folded it around the side of the inside fender. This got rid of 90% of the rub - still have some work to do, but don't plan on doing any cutting. Hoping to just heat and massage more plastic back.
 

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Mluis11

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Curious for the folks that do slight trimming and run 37’s and off-road hard, I mean some rough stuff do you not rub and crack fenders?

I know this is about GEN2’s but with my GEN1 on 35’s, I rub the liners good when off-roading. Even though a GEN1 could run 37’s with trimming too, if you wanted to do some serious off-roading, you have to replace your fenders with +2’s or bigger, do the pinch welds and cut the bottom.

So is the trimming everyone is doing more or less for street use and preventing rubbing when turning?



I think you answered your own question[emoji23] I ripped my liners out and even left rubber marks on the core support with 35s!!! Anything is possible if you go hard enough! No issue with my 37s now, but I have fiberglass and more dampening.


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trophycummins

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My truck gets beat on hard. I have raptor oem fender liners. My liners are cut just like the photo I posted. The honeycomb is also trimmed back a good bit


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DEGBTI

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i just trimmed my honeycomb back some as even after trimming the plastic I get a small rub only on the driver side. Thought I did enough but again a very slight rub. Going to grind off some more till it clears. Also, I don't have the geiser 3" lift, my foxes only gave me about 2". I tried to add more preload but the effin threads on my new $3k shock body are stripped! Also, they put the allan bolt to lossen the spring retainer backwards so you cant get to it to adjust!
 

zombiekiller

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i just trimmed my honeycomb back some as even after trimming the plastic I get a small rub only on the driver side. Thought I did enough but again a very slight rub. Going to grind off some more till it clears. Also, I don't have the geiser 3" lift, my foxes only gave me about 2". I tried to add more preload but the effin threads on my new $3k shock body are stripped! Also, they put the allan bolt to lossen the spring retainer backwards so you cant get to it to adjust!

they honestly should come off to be adjusted.

Choose your own adventure, but I'd either take them off to adjust, or spend the coin to run some +2 fenders before i hacked up the honeycomb.

For reference, +2s from sdhq are $600 or so.
 

trophycummins

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they honestly should come off to be adjusted.



Choose your own adventure, but I'd either take them off to adjust, or spend the coin to run some +2 fenders before i hacked up the honeycomb.



For reference, +2s from sdhq are $600 or so.



Please explain how +2 fenders will fix rubbing the honeycomb with 37s


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zombiekiller

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Please explain how +2 fenders will fix rubbing the honeycomb with 37s


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seriously?

Ok. The honeycomb is actually inner fender structure. It goes bye bye when the factory fender comes off. The +2 fenders are a 2+2. 2" of additional clearance all around.

You'd use a new liner, and the tires wont rub.
 
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