Upfitter wire access?

[BigJ]

I just realized I don't know where to find the upfitter switch terminations. I've read they're behind the glove box? Do I need to drop the box down to gain access? If so, how?

And yes, I did try to RTFM, but the Supplement doesn't tell you where to find 'em.

Help a brutha out! Where they be? :whiteflag:

 

[BigJ]

Ok I found the access. Damn they give you no room to work with eh?

For those who might not also know... open your passenger door and you'll see a vertical access panel with a vent hole. You can pull on that hole and remove the panel. You can also drop the glovebox down all the way by bending in the plastic sides, where the bumpers engage the dash in the down position. Bend each side in enough and the glovebox will be allowed to fall clear giving you the most access.

But now having seen the wires myself, I'm questioning if I have this plan right, though (http://www.svtoffroad.com/showthread.php?148-Upfitter-Aux-Switch-Wiring-Explained). They're awfully tiny wires for, say, 30amp. Is that truly the only hot end? And are we supposed to wire that hot end to one of the passthru wires (which by the way are larger gauge I think) and then on to our lights?

Seems kinda... odd...

 

[BigJ]

Ok well I busted out the test light and just triple checked myself as I went, and sure enough things shake out exactly as outlined in that diagram I linked to above.

The size of those wires still make me a bit uncomfortable, but I trust Ford knows what they're doin :mrgreen:

Full speed ahead!

 

[FSM06]

Big J, you're doin' fine. The size of the wires are in relation to the current they carry. Just be sure and use the appropriate leg for the component you are using to not exceed the amperage protection provided for that particular switch. The smallest of the wires is for the switch that is running a circuit protected by a 10 amp fuse. Connecting that wire to one of the pass thru wires is ok as long as the component(s) you are running does not draw more than 10 amperes. The opposite would be concerning. You would not want to use the large yellow wire and connect it to, say, a 18-20 ga wire to run a component that draws 25-30 amperes. The small wire would not likely carry the current and the wire would burn before the fuse.

What's cookin'? What are you hookin' up to that beast? Lights?

 

[Xjrguy]

Took me 5 minutes to wire up my connections under there.

Drop the glove box and remove the side panel (where the vent is on the right)

Then you can get two hands in there.

Don't even think about using a soldering iron in there and PLEASE do not use wiring twist ties on the wires.

If you are connecting the corresponding switch wires to the wires under the hood, remember what color you are connecting to.

For example, my Switch one (YELLOW WIRE) I have connected to the PURPLE wire under the glove box, which goes out to the underhood bundle again terminating with a PURPLE wire.

My switch Two which is a GREEN with BROWN trace is connected to the RED wire under the glove box which also terminates out under the hood as a RED wire.

This is all assuming you are running equipment outside of the cab.

If inside the cab, just connect your equipment to JUST the wires that correspond to the switches (detailed in the supplement)

 

[BigJ]

Yep, thanks guys. Once I got in there and figured out whats what, it all became clear (and pretty easy to take care of).

We're in the process of making new brackets for my Aries bar. Brackets that will allow me to still use my stock hooks (mounted vertically) and not give up any approach angle (any more than the Aries already gives up, which is minimal if any at all). Gonna be killer if I can pull it off. And since everything is apart, I figured now would be a great time to install the LightForce Striker HIDs I bought I'm going to use two switches for two lights; one for the driver side and one for the passenger side light (3 and 4 respectively). That way I can run one amber light or one white light, or both, or whatever else filter I pick up, and/or mix and match as the situation requires. Each HID is 35w, so around 3amp per.

Pics and details to come in the next couple of days.

 

[Xjrguy]

Glad you got it figured out and didn't burn your truck down.

 

[FSM06]

Best be careful. Point those "Eyes of God" the wrong way and you might be the one with the burnt down truck!!:nana:

Glad you got it figured out and didn't burn your truck down.