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Transmission & Transfer case fluid service

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Maintenance Forum' started by BlueOvalF22, Jan 13, 2021 at 5:47 AM.

Car Parts
  1. BlueOvalF22

    BlueOvalF22 FRF Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I'm about to do a Transmission and Transfer case fluid change.

    So I ordered this pan with a drain plug off amazon.

    [​IMG]

    I'll just drill a hole in the old one to drain it.

    I also ordered the correct filter.

    Motorcraft FT-188

    I'm going to use this Lubeguard stuff first before I drain it.

    [​IMG]

    I ordered 3 gallons of this for the trans. I've seen some high powered, as well as some high miles Ford Trans, run just fine on this Valvoline Synthetic Mercon LV.

    [​IMG]

    This will go in the T-case.

    [​IMG]

    I got the 32oz of the lube guard. I'll be able to do the proper dose of ~2oz per quart to both the transmission and transfer case.

    [​IMG]

    I've had great results with these fluids on other vehicles.

    This is just for maintenance and to show what I did and how it works out.

    See my other thread about the 6.0 PSD trans cooler swap and PS cooler for system mods.

    https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/cheap-transmission-cooler-mod.81078/
     
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  2. B E N

    B E N Full Access Member

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    I'm a little confused why your doing all of this. There is special machinery required to fully flush one of these transmissions unless your going to R+R it, pull the torque convertor all the lines and drain it. Your not going to be able to get all of the flushing chem out of the system.

    Adding a bunch of sauce to the transmission is really unnecessary. Are you having trans trouble?
     
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  3. Muchmore

    Muchmore Full Access Member

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    That was my first question. If you add the drain helper and run it, send it thru the torque converter, how do plan on getting it out before the fill unless you do a full flush? A drain and fill won't get all the old stuff out especially if it knocks anything loose that's trapped inside the converter that won't drain.
     
  4. FordTechOne

    FordTechOne FRF Addict

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    I have to agree with @B E N. Flushing a transmission is not like flushing a cooling system; if the fluid is burnt or contaminated, the transmission requires internal repairs. Ford only recommends flushing of the transmission cooler, and even then that’s only if a failure has occurred; the procedure also requires a specific flush machine. Additives are also not recommended, fluid meeting the OE spec is all that should be used. This is especially important with LV and ULV applications, as the transmission internal components are designed around the fluid viscosity.
     
  5. BlueOvalF22

    BlueOvalF22 FRF Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I've built a bunch of trans...

    I would not use any other flush or additives other than lubeguard. Other flushes are way too harsh.

    I Don't do a fluid exchange ever. The pan, filter and all fluids are less $ than going in for an exchange.

    With a drain plug pan fitted, a new filter and extended dipstick fitted if it stays clear I'll just go a year and do a drain plug only drain and fill then go to a 3 year fluid and filter interval.

    $69.99 for 3 gal

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9MLD5Z/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

    $37.33 for 1 gal

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZTRVLX9/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

    When a lot of people I know with ford Mercon LV applications run this fluid with no issues.

    I went over 300,000 miles on the original engine, trans and transfer case in a FZJ-80 landcruiser. I had to repack birfeilds a lot when I was up in MN and did a headgasket Long I6 head.

    I beat that SUV, Locked both axles and T case and went through stupid deep snow. Accidentally jumped it in CA. It was fine.

    More frequent fluid changes are good. Especially wheeling when contaminated fluid is possible. I've seen axles with even with extended vents suck in water when a hot axle cools fording.

    Transmission fluid for the life of the transmission is like saying engine oil lasts for the life of the engine. Or that 100,000 highway miles are the same as 100,000 local delivery miles.

    I'm changing all fluids, all valve springs, cams, lifters all cats, all U joints, all CV joints, all A arms,... etc.. Still cheaper than a new truck, busted joint, burnt trans or dropped valve plus needing a tow,

    A bigger trans cooler for harder use and a bigger PS cooler. I'm keeping the 2010 "one year PS pump" its been fine.
     
  6. BlueOvalF22

    BlueOvalF22 FRF Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    A little clarification..

    I do the home flush..

    Not the take it in and pay for an exchange machine.

     
  7. scary gary

    scary gary Member

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    DO NOT FLUSH the trans. My dealership recommended it and they ended up replacing it. Just pick up the truck yesterday after 4 weeks of no truck. My truck did not make it 500 miles after the flush.
     
  8. scary gary

    scary gary Member

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    I appreciate all your help boss. My truck is back and ford dealership ended up eating the cost unfortunately, they ended up putting a completely new trans, cooler and converter. The parts to rebuild was 3 months out. thanks again.
     
  9. KOBRA2848

    KOBRA2848 Full Access Member

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    I did something similar to what BlueOvalF22 on my F250 I traded in for my Raptor. My F250 had a drain plug on the pan and I would drain and refill the pan amount every 6000 miles. At 90000 miles I disconnected the cooler return line and cycled the old fluid out while adding new fluid in. I traded it in right at 100000 miles and the guy who purchased lives by me and it is still going strong.

    Mark
     
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  10. Smokyray

    Smokyray Full Access Member

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    I did the identical procedure on my "second truck" Tacoma I bought new in 2013. I drained mine and replaced Mobil 1 tranny fluid every 30K (Toyota's recommended miles) with cooler line off every other change.
    It's running strong and shifts like new at 140K.

    Will do same on my Raptor..
    :).
     

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