Ruger
FRF Addict
It's almost certainly a sticky valve lifter. How many miles on the engine, sir?
Tick Tick Tick?
- Thread starter IRONMAN
- Start date
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OP
OP
IRONMAN
Well-Known Member
I have 22000..5.4L 2010
Ruger
FRF Addict
Ironman, I sincerely doubt that the offending valve lifter has mechanically failed in a mere 22,000 miles. You can open the engine up and replace that lifter (or all the lifters, as they'll probably all look the same), but I think that's unnecessarily invasive. (Like yanking a tooth when it only needs a filling.) Before you do that, you might want to explore a less invasive (and a LOT cheaper) approach.
I have used several engine flush products with good results. You typically add it to the crankcase (some products have you drain out a quart of oil, some have you add it to a full crankcase), and run the engine for a specified number of minutes in your driveway. Then you drain the whole mess out and do a complete oil and filter change. If you do this when you're going to do an oil change anyway, all it costs is the price of the engine flush product. It won't hurt your engine, and you won't have the Raptor in the shop for a day or two. Call it a cheap experiment.
If you go this route, I recommend that you allow the crankcase and filter mount (Both! Leaving the filter on while draining the crankcase won't release oil from certain oil galeries in the engine. Pull the plug AND the filter, and the engine will drain completely.) to drain overnight so that you get as much of the old offending oil and motor flush out of the engine as possible. Then start over with a full synthetic oil and a high quality filter. (Hint on the filter: If you manually compare a Mobil 1 oil fiter with any other filter on the market by weighing them one in each hand, you will notice that the Mobil 1 filter is more massive. There's more filter material in the can and the steel used for the can is thicker. For my money, there is no better oil filter on the market.)
I have used several engine flush products with good results. You typically add it to the crankcase (some products have you drain out a quart of oil, some have you add it to a full crankcase), and run the engine for a specified number of minutes in your driveway. Then you drain the whole mess out and do a complete oil and filter change. If you do this when you're going to do an oil change anyway, all it costs is the price of the engine flush product. It won't hurt your engine, and you won't have the Raptor in the shop for a day or two. Call it a cheap experiment.
If you go this route, I recommend that you allow the crankcase and filter mount (Both! Leaving the filter on while draining the crankcase won't release oil from certain oil galeries in the engine. Pull the plug AND the filter, and the engine will drain completely.) to drain overnight so that you get as much of the old offending oil and motor flush out of the engine as possible. Then start over with a full synthetic oil and a high quality filter. (Hint on the filter: If you manually compare a Mobil 1 oil fiter with any other filter on the market by weighing them one in each hand, you will notice that the Mobil 1 filter is more massive. There's more filter material in the can and the steel used for the can is thicker. For my money, there is no better oil filter on the market.)
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