Stereo upgrade

[chris51080]

I’ve decided to do a stereo upgrade in the Raptor. My primary issues with the factory system are a lack of bass, a lack of detail and no headroom.

I’ve already ordered everything, and a quick rundown is in order:
Stereo Integrity M25/M3/TM8 up front
Hertz coax in the rear
MTI dual 6.5” sub enclosure behind the rear seat plus their packaged sub amp
Helix V Eight Mk2 DSP/Amp
PAC A2B converter.

I haven’t installed any of the above just yet, the last of it arrived the other day and I need a good free day to take care of it.

While waiting for all the gear to show up, I ordered block off plates for all four doors, as well as sound deadening from NVX. That made a solid difference.
But, after all that was done, I had the bang and static issue coming from the factory stereo. Took it to the dealer for the DSP update. Had the truck been this good when I got it, I may have saved myself a few grand. Granted, the bass is still lacking, but it’s ok enough that I’m not pissed off with it.
The clarity improved a little.
The headroom issue still exists, there simply is not enough power for dynamic music.

But overall, the factory system with blockoff plates and sound deadening went from a 3 to a 6. It’s shockingly decent. The imaging was always good, but even that seems to have improved a little too.

I was going to install just the sub as my first step, but it wasn’t quite as plug and play as I wanted, so the next step is to go whole hog. I’m hopeful that I can get the system to an 8 or 9.

Point is, boys, don’t downplay just how much of an improvement a DSP tune can improve things. If you’re unhappy with your factory radio, get the DSP update (you did hear a pop followed by static through your radio, right?). Then do sound deadening (I did doors and roof so far) and blockoff plates. For a few hundred bucks and a couple hours time you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Shane361]

I’ve decided to do a stereo upgrade in the Raptor. My primary issues with the factory system are a lack of bass, a lack of detail and no headroom.

I’ve already ordered everything, and a quick rundown is in order:
Stereo Integrity M25/M3/TM8 up front
Hertz coax in the rear
MTI dual 6.5” sub enclosure behind the rear seat plus their packaged sub amp
Helix V Eight Mk2 DSP/Amp
PAC A2B converter.

I haven’t installed any of the above just yet, the last of it arrived the other day and I need a good free day to take care of it.

While waiting for all the gear to show up, I ordered block off plates for all four doors, as well as sound deadening from NVX. That made a solid difference.
But, after all that was done, I had the bang and static issue coming from the factory stereo. Took it to the dealer for the DSP update. Had the truck been this good when I got it, I may have saved myself a few grand. Granted, the bass is still lacking, but it’s ok enough that I’m not pissed off with it.
The clarity improved a little.
The headroom issue still exists, there simply is not enough power for dynamic music.

But overall, the factory system with blockoff plates and sound deadening went from a 3 to a 6. It’s shockingly decent. The imaging was always good, but even that seems to have improved a little too.

I was going to install just the sub as my first step, but it wasn’t quite as plug and play as I wanted, so the next step is to go whole hog. I’m hopeful that I can get the system to an 8 or 9.

Point is, boys, don’t downplay just how much of an improvement a DSP tune can improve things. If you’re unhappy with your factory radio, get the DSP update (you did hear a pop followed by static through your radio, right?). Then do sound deadening (I did doors and roof so far) and blockoff plates. For a few hundred bucks and a couple hours time you may be pleasantly surprised.

Nice! I had 10k in my 2020 Raptor but toning it down in my 25 drastically. Already have the underseat enclosure and two 10" Sundown Audio subs. Going to be running a 7 channel amp to the highs/mids/subs. I have a DSP, may or may not throw it in, probably. My Sounds Skinz came in today but still need to order the block off plates. I'll be running JL Audio C3's front and back as usual. Stocker does suck..terribly.

 

[Donmatteo]

Biggest bang for your buck is wrapping the sub in dynomat. I did that and it's 1000% better.

I also agree that adding dynomat to the roof, doors and even floors makes a world of difference inside.

 

[tlemmen]

Has anyone taken the headliner out of a truck with the moonroof yet? How hard is that to do? How bad is getting the center console out? Thinking of do a bunch of sound treatment to my ‘25. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

 

[Hambone]

Biggest bang for your buck is wrapping the sub in dynomat. I did that and it's 1000% better.

Can you explain this? Did you wrap the factory sub, or an aftermarket sub enclosure?

 

[fleafly]

Biggest bang for your buck is wrapping the sub in dynomat. I did that and it's 1000% better.

I'd also appreciate some more information regarding this. Would you mind explaining exactly what you did? This intrigues me.

 

[leo_pessoa]

100% agree with DSP and Helix is INSANELY good. Great choice.

Here's the BOM of my upgrades so far:

Helix V TWELVE - 12ch Amplifier w/ 14ch DSP
Helix Conductor - Preset Selection / Level Control
2x Audiomobile EVO2410 -10" (250 mm) - Slimline (3.9" deep). Long 16.1mm Xmax. SVC 4 ohm /600 watts
ZEN Audio interface

Although still running most of stock speakers, they sound dramatically better. Can't wait to upgrade them next!

 

[Keith88]

All i did was add a 12" under the rear seat in a box I modeled off of a SKAR box. Im happy just wish the whole system was twice as loud.

 

[chris51080]

I figured I should provide an update.

I just got the entire stereo upgrade installed with the most basic of tuning; crossovers, auto-eq, and automatic time alignment.

In brief, I'm quite happy with this upgrade. Details below.

Some installation notes:
While the dash does need to be modified to fit the SI M3's (and likely any other 3-ish inch midrange drivers, you DO NOT need to modify the ductwork for the passenger side dash vent. I was able to fasten the outboard screw of the speaker adapter into the dash, then use 3M VHB to mount the inboard tab to the factory stand-off. Again, the dash opening below the speaker grill will absolutely need to be opened up, and that's very easy to do with a razor knife, but you should be able to make it work without carving up the duct below.

The speaker wiring adapters were a pain to sort out. The A pillar tweeters needed harnesses from SGS.
The dash speakers needed this harness but you will need to snip some tabs off to make these work.
The door speakers wiring adapters were easy, and came with the SGS adapter plates.

The biggest problem with the factory system was a lack of power. The Helix V Eight solves this even with stock speakers. The MTI dual 6.5 sub box is not earth shattering, but it bolsters the bottom end and Im very happy with it. Right now, it was initially a little more boomy than I would prefer, but a little DSP tweaking has solved that issue. Bass is nice and tight, and powerful enough to shake the mirrors. This is not for a bass-head, but it is perfect for someone wanting good bottom end.

The SI speakers are great. The 8's in the doors were the right decision, but now I am going to be chasing rattling in the door panels.
The tweeters needed a 2" hole saw and then they mount right up to the factory A-pillars. They sound fantastic, and in conjunction with the M3s provide a lot of the detail that I feel had been missing previously.

For the rear fill, I just grabbed some 6.5" Hertz coax speakers. They are perfectly fine, and are doing their job.

As it stands, the stereo plays loud and clear, while also providing the low end that was missing. IMO, this was time and money well spent.

 

[tlemmen]

I’m probably going to do one of the high end stealth system from SGS as soon as they do Black Friday. I’m sure that the sound treatment is a huge improvement by itself.

 

[BHook]

Did you make the 8 or 9 goal?

I'm also planning on SGS, but a mid to lower level system. I've got some hearing loss from flying helicopters for the last 36 years.

Hoping the SGS behind the seat ported dual 6" subs are better than the 2 10" sealed I was running in my 2018.

 

[chris51080]

I’m probably going to do one of the high end stealth system from SGS as soon as they do Black Friday. I’m sure that the sound treatment is a huge improvement by itself.

The sound deadening plus block off plates were a night and day difference. If you’ve had the Ford DSP update, you may be happy with the system there. If you feel you need bass, SGS has the plug n play sub option which will be great.
If you think that the rest of the system is lacking power, you will need to go and do the full system.

 

[chris51080]

Did you make the 8 or 9 goal?

I'm also planning on SGS, but a mid to lower level system. I've got some hearing loss from flying helicopters for the last 36 years.

Hoping the SGS behind the seat ported dual 6" subs are better than the 2 10" sealed I was running in my 2018.

Yes. I’m easily into the 8s right now. I do think that with the right tuning, it could get into the 9s.

I’m impressed with the dual 6.5 enclosure. I think that if you’re looking for more SQ, you’ll be happy with it. If you’re truly looking for bass you feel, you’ll want something under the seat. Either way, proper tuning makes a world of difference.

FWIW, I would look into building your own system. I would also go with the Mobridge amp/dsp if I did this again. My amp rack is way too crowded with two amps, an a2b converter, and the power distribution. Plus, more power to the front door speakers would be nice.
Grab the SGS sub box, I don’t think you can beat the SI three ways for the money, and you’re in for under 4 or 5k.

 

[Jhollowell]

Do you have some pics of the front speakers installed? where did you put the 3" speakers? I have a fully active system in my gen 1 and planning to get into a gen 3 in the future and the first mod will be a fully built audio system.

 

[chris51080]

Do you have some pics of the front speakers installed? where did you put the 3" speakers? I have a fully active system in my gen 1 and planning to get into a gen 3 in the future and the first mod will be a fully built audio system.

The 3” speakers are at the corners of the dash. At the base of the windshield.

No photos of the install, but the 8” speakers went in with zero issues, obviously using an adapter plate from mti. You will need shallow ones for the doors, the SI ones were a perfect match.