GEN 1 Speed Bleeders install/1-man brake bleeding

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BenBB

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So this weekend I upgraded from garden-variety, low-speed high-drag factory brake bleeder screws to Russell Speed Bleeders. These things make bleeding brakes a one-man operation and are well worth investing in if you ever need to bleed the brake lines; for shiny new aftermarket lines or a shiny new factory brake booster (not that these will help bench bleed the master cyl), or just for the hell of it to replace the brake fluid on a high-mile truck (like mine).

Cheapest I could find them was on ebay for $12.99 a pair shipped:
Russell 639590 Speed Bleeder 3/8-24 Thread 1 1/4" Overall Length 2 pcs
Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder 10 mm x 1.0 mm Thread 35 mm Overall Length 2 pcs | eBay
On a '10-14 the fronts use the part # 639590 and the rears are # 639560. You'll need a 3/8" wrench for the fronts and a 7/16" for the rear. From a suggestion in another thread an empty 32oz. Gatorade bottle works great with a hole cut in the cap, and a few feet of 1/4" I.D. clear tubing. I grabbed two quarts of DOT 4 fluid for $17, but barely used more than a quart, and yes factory is DOT 3 and would work fine for a couple bucks less. I used a small hand pump to empty as much of the old fluid out of the brake master cylinder reservoir as I felt safe emptying (go to far and you may need to bench bleed the master cylinder so just take out to within about an inch from the bottom to be safe) since I was replacing as much of the fluid as I could. From that point the speed bleeders installation is pretty straightforward:

1. Fill brake master cylinder reservoir, put on the cap.
2. Start with longest (edit: not shortest as I mistakenly did, thanks for the advise guys) brake line so right rear, locate brake bleeder towards top of caliper, leave the cap on it if present or use one of the ones included with the speed bleeder to prevent brake fluid from going everywhere.
3. Hold rag below bleeder and crack bleeder loose with 3/8" wrench, you should be able to hand spin it out and hand tighten the speed bleeder without losing too much fluid. They are tight but not superhuman torqued in there, whatever you do don't use WD-40 or some shit on them, if you get it on the brake pads they will swell like crazy and a nightmare will ensue.
4. Tighten speed bleeder until it bottoms out, remove cap.
5. Run 1/4" hose over the leaf spring and down to the bleeder (the other end of the hose in the Gatorade bottle cap, for the fronts go up and over the swaybar).
6. Loosen speed bleeder 1/2 turn.
7. Get in truck and pump the brakes 2-4 times (edit: no need to start truck, thanks for the input).
8. Tighten speed bleeder, pop off 1/4" hose carefully and lift to get brake fluid to drain into bottle (that shit peels paint and probably does horrific things to your eyeballs, try not to get it anywhere), replace rubber cap.
9. Top off brake master cylinder.
10. Repeat for left rear, right front, then left rear (rears take 10-20 pumps to push out old fluid if you're replacing fluid, if you lean out the door you can see the brake reservoir as you're pumping the brakes-don't pump it dry).
11. Double check brake master cylinder is at "Full" line.

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BenBB

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My old fluid was pretty dark compared to the clear new stuff...
 

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Raptor911

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question .. I was always taught that when bleeding calipers, you start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder so:

- passenger rear (1st)
- driver side rear (2nd)
- passenger front (3rd)
- driver side front (4th)

Also why are you starting the car to pump the brakes to bleed the system?
 
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BenBB

BenBB

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question .. I was always taught that when bleeding calipers, you start at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder so:

- passenger rear (1st)
- driver side rear (2nd)
- passenger front (3rd)
- driver side front (4th)

Also why are you starting the car to pump the brakes to bleed the system?

Good questions! I never got taught, just trial and error, most of my past experience is with quads and my first car, an old '66 Mustang. Starting farthest makes sense, especially if you are replacing lines, would it matter if the lines were intact? I visualize the fluid in them being static until bled...

I ran the engine for the brake boost, thought it would either speed up the process (I wanted to replace as much fluid as I could with fresh), and/or not do anything if I didn't...but I could be totally wrong there, am I?

Appreciate any input I'm always learning.
 

reaper1441

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furthest from the master cylinder is the best practice to remove all the old fluid but doesn't change things tremendously unless there was a problem. Like moisture or air trapped in the lines.

Starting the vehicle is easier on your foot and that's about all.
 
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BenBB

BenBB

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furthest from the master cylinder is the best practice to remove all the old fluid but doesn't change things tremendously unless there was a problem. Like moisture or air trapped in the lines.

Starting the vehicle is easier on your foot and that's about all.

Much appreciated. I was just glad I didn't have to take it to the dealer to cycle the ABS or some shit.
 

Dane

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Dumb question, but are these speed bleeders basically one way valves? Meaning I don't need my pump to do it myself since they can't suck in air like standard bleeders?
 

Raptor911

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Found this on amazon:

The Edelbrock/Russell Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valves in calipers and wheel cylinders with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique check ball design opens to allow the old fluid and air out and closes automatically between the pumps preventing the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. A special coating on the speed bleeder threads keep it from admitting air into the system and keeps expelled air and fluid out. The check ball is centerless ground 410 stainless steel which resists corrosion and galling. It features a patented thread sealing system that displaces air and moisture during thread engagement as well as eliminates air from being pulled back into the system during bleeding.

Dumb question, but are these speed bleeders basically one way valves? Meaning I don't need my pump to do it myself since they can't suck in air like standard bleeders?
 

Dane

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Found this on amazon:

The Edelbrock/Russell Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valves in calipers and wheel cylinders with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique check ball design opens to allow the old fluid and air out and closes automatically between the pumps preventing the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. A special coating on the speed bleeder threads keep it from admitting air into the system and keeps expelled air and fluid out. The check ball is centerless ground 410 stainless steel which resists corrosion and galling. It features a patented thread sealing system that displaces air and moisture during thread engagement as well as eliminates air from being pulled back into the system during bleeding.

Soooo... take my money. I'm planning on brake lines soon, guess I'd better get these. My future self will thank me.
 

Raptor911

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I just purchased them from Ebay (link provided my OP in the 1st post) as they were the best prices I could find. I hope they work as advertised. :)

Soooo... take my money. I'm planning on brake lines soon, guess I'd better get these. My future self will thank me.
 
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