Should I stay away from a 2010 with 170k miles?

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40oz

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Here is one of the links that I could find that says 12's were the worst year.

I have a 2012 and have had almost zero issues for the 4 years and 150k miles I have put on her. My main gripe is the location of the spark plug behind the shock mount :mad:
 

Stew_Magoo

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Bought this truck one year ago with 179,000 miles. I paid $18,800. The only thing wrong with it was AC didn't work, I recharged it and it was fine for about 9 months. I saw one line was damp at that point, so I replaced it and recharged, been working for the last few months, time will tell if my guess at that line was the problem.

Right now the truck has 195,000 on it. This weekend it is getting new front shocks, upper control arms (one has slight play, the other has a fair amount of play) I bought lowers and will put them in just as maintenance, it is also getting pads and rotors. In the coming weeks I plan on changing all the fluids.

The truck is in great shape. The interior is great. These trucks hold up really well, I wouldn't be concerned about buying one with miles. But with anything, the more maintenance records the better.
 

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Citizen Park

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What is is that you believe makes a 13-14 truck worth 5-10k more?

Personally, I believe there is added value for a final production year(s) model. Think the value is purely based on market demand.

Like I said, if someone is *willing* to pay $30k+, why not *consider* Raps with the latest upgrades, cosmetic or mechanical.
 
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PorterW1111

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As I was being facetious here is a more comprehensive list: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/raptor-changes-year-by-year.15443/

Truth is it doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Unless you want a specific color that was limited all the trucks are plenty good. The 12 is not "the worst year", there really isn't a worst year, maybe a 2010 with a 5.4l, but they are still good.

11 did away with the 5.4l.

The 12 and later trucks had the LSD in the front and some frame reinforcement around the bump stops, but that frame reinforcement is taken care of by every bump stop kit made by a reputable company for these trucks, and if your pushing that hard you need upgraded bump stops.

13+ had HID as an option, also started the 801A package, but this is identical to the previous model years luxury package except the HID lights and navigation system.

14 had the SE package.

Sync 2 is nice because you can upgrade to sync 3, but if you have sync 1 its much easier to do a whole hog stereo upgrade. And sync 3 is already stale, sync 1 is arguably the best because it is easy to get rid of.

Pick your Raptor based on color, condition and availability, the rest can be solved by the aftermarket, as required.

There is nothing that makes a 13/14 in good condition with low miles worth considerably more than a 10/11/12 in similar condition, they are all past warranty date, all good trucks, all climbing in value.
fact...17-18 is the worse year..lol
 

PorterW1111

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Aftermarket parts really don’t add much value, and it also makes no sense to pay more just because it has new tires. The seller can’t ask a premium just because his truck has all the parts it’s supposed to have on it
the right parts do add value though. oem replacement i agree but full suspension kits, SC, forged wheels, name brand lights, yeah they are pulling a premium. esp now with those kits being harder to obtain/lead times.
 

II Sevv

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the right parts do add value though. oem replacement i agree but full suspension kits, SC, forged wheels, name brand lights, yeah they are pulling a premium. esp now with those kits being harder to obtain/lead times.
But this truck doesn’t have those. It just has 3.0’s that you can get used all day long for a couple grand. The ones on the truck are just as used as any others you’d buy.
 

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My opinion as someone who loves old cars, which are often high mileage:

I wouldn't be willing to pay that much for a truck with those miles. Not because I think it's going to blow up and leave you stranded and not because I am scared of owning high mileage vehicles. Simply because the price differential between that and a much lower mileage vehicle is too little to be worth getting the high mileage one. You need to budget for repairs and maintenance - especially things beyond the scheduled maintenance.

Check the maintenance records (if it doesn't have them, it would need to be extremely cheap to be worth the gamble) to see what has been done.
  • At 150k+ miles you can expect to need to replace just about every bushing in the car - suspension bushings / mounts, motor mounts, trans mounts, diff mounts, exhaust hangers, etc as those will all be worn due to age and use.
  • I'd also expect to be doing a major cooling system service - replacing the radiator, likely all hoses, water pump, etc.
  • Trans and differential will likely need a service, limited slip diff may need to be overhauled. Hopefully the trans is just fluid and filter but 180k is enough that I wouldn't expect it to last forever.
  • CV joints / axles are likely dry - whether that is just a repack / reboot or a replacement would need to be determined.
  • Suspension itself may be tired necessitating a shock rebuild or replacement as well.
  • Brakes - they've probably been done at some point but you want to know if you need to do pads, rotors, etc.
Basically, that age and mileage there will be a lot of parts that are simply worn down. Cars from cold climates will be worse and weird stuff goes wrong. Brake calipers seizing, wheel bearings going out, etc. Maybe some of this stuff has been done, but you need to know first. In any case, I think the price is too high.
 
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