Shock tuning

[darinz]

I'm just about to order some Icon and Eibach springs and will then tune the factory shocks to suit. (2017 factory shocks)
My question is what have others done? Not looking at changing the shocks just making these work better. Seems silly to me to change them when there is a huge amount you can do to make these work.
And before anyone asks, yes I will be doing it myself as I service and tune the shocks in my race truck (Kings but near enough) so have done it plenty of times and have all the tools. I also know the local Fox agent so he's going to go over one with me first and supply any shims etc that I need.

So Shim stacks info etc would be really helpful plus details of load carried, driving speeds etc etc so can make some educated guesses on changes to make.

My current thoughts are that the front needs quite a bit more rebound and the rear needs both rebound and compression. That being said my rear (factory) springs are buggered so that'll make the compression seems lighter than it is.

Any thoughts or insights will be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Condep]

I just installed Eibach springs, rebound was considerably reduced immediately, shocks extend too fast with new spring rate, and new high position.
Any help will be appreciated.

 

[Raptor_Envy]

I'm just about to order some Icon and Eibach springs and will then tune the factory shocks to suit. (2017 factory shocks)
My question is what have others done? Not looking at changing the shocks just making these work better. Seems silly to me to change them when there is a huge amount you can do to make these work.
And before anyone asks, yes I will be doing it myself as I service and tune the shocks in my race truck (Kings but near enough) so have done it plenty of times and have all the tools. I also know the local Fox agent so he's going to go over one with me first and supply any shims etc that I need.

So Shim stacks info etc would be really helpful plus details of load carried, driving speeds etc etc so can make some educated guesses on changes to make.

My current thoughts are that the front needs quite a bit more rebound and the rear needs both rebound and compression. That being said my rear (factory) springs are buggered so that'll make the compression seems lighter than it is.

Any thoughts or insights will be much appreciated.

Thanks

Do you have access to a shock Dyno? If not I have one in my garage. You really need that to get a dialed in damper curve. Aside from shim configurations, it depends on the damper curve (linear, progress, digressive). There are many ways you can achieve what you want, so the area under the curve is what matters.

As to tuning theory, offroad you want to spend your time with what the wheel is doing which means more HS compression relative to pavement shaft velocities. Rebound is going to manage sprung mass until it doesn't. What motocross and dirt track guys do is run compression bias in the front and rebound bias in the rear for fast settling and it also allows you to get power down. Too much rear rebound and you pick up the tires and get less power down.

Without knowing what exactly you intend to do makes it hard to suggest damping changes. I can offer to Dyno whatever shim stack you want and tell you what gets you what.

The rule of thumb is, bleed+preload gives you low speed. Shim stack thickness (by number of shims, or by few thick shims) will give you more damping everywhere. Bypass or free bleed, and shim stack types eg pyramid, crossover, etc can give you unique damping that allow you to affect highspeed. But mainly its free bleed and total stack thickness.

Word of warning too big a stack and you start taking droop away which can also get you into trouble. Also I have no idea what the motion ratios are so we need those to be able to give you a meaningful damping target.


Let me know..