Rust opinion please

[CoronaRaptor]

I agree. I own a ‘10 from the southwest and it has less.

I’m in Canada and I’m pretty sure my 10’ has less than that, except on my deaver springs, lol

 

[Frank N]

After going through a winter with tons of salt and brine here, it came out looking like I never drove in the snow.

OLDFART likes wool wax...no one is surprised. Lol

 

[CoronaRaptor]

OLDFART likes wool wax...no one is surprised. Lol

 

[Dr Racecraft]

I’m planning on once a yr for the clean and reapplication, I’ve got 2 winters of daily use, used HDMP before the second winter and at 25k miles i still have some of that but definitely helps. The primer and black rustoleum is a nice option, por15 is supposed to be the best

 

[Frank N]

POR15 is what all the old timers used on their dedicated beach buggies. It works like nothing else.

 

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

Hello - I have a 19 Raptor with 10k miles and noticed that rust is appearing on the belly. Dealer says this is surface only, no big deal, and not to worry about it. Thoughts?

The ironic thing here is that most people think because Ford went to an aluminum body, they don’t need to worry about rust. I actually worked for a Ford dealer for 20 years and sold probably 1,000 Raptors. From the Gen 1 in 2010, all the way through the aluminum body. The frames and the rear axles rust like hell. In fact, the 19 I bought came with an axle covered in rust at delivery. Those parts are still just steel and they don’t do a good job at coating them. So the first thing I always do is take them To Ziebart and have them under coated. Think of a softer spray in bedliner. It always does the trick and keeps them from looking bad in 6-12 months. They all do. They generally don’t spray the axle though, so som black rust oleum paint works well in that as well.

 

[KODIAK]

The ironic thing here is that most people think because Ford went to an aluminum body, they don’t need to worry about rust. I actually worked for a Ford dealer for 20 years and sold probably 1,000 Raptors. From the Gen 1 in 2010, all the way through the aluminum body. The frames and the rear axles rust like hell. In fact, the 19 I bought came with an axle covered in rust at delivery. Those parts are still just steel and they don’t do a good job at coating them. So the first thing I always do is take them To Ziebart and have them under coated. Think of a softer spray in bedliner. It always does the trick and keeps them from looking bad in 6-12 months. They all do. They generally don’t spray the axle though, so som black rust oleum paint works well in that as well.

Ziebart undercoating is one of the worst things you can do. it traps all the **** under the coating and lets it rot from the inside out. You couldn't pay me enough to use it. There's enough videos on youtube about ziebart's garbage undercoating to steer anyone away from it.

 

[Oldfart]

OLDFART likes wool wax...no one is surprised. Lol

You guys are SO JEALOUS of my smoking hot girlfriends!!! I can't help it if I have animal magnetism.

 

[Badgertits]

Surface rust but, Yeah that seems a bit excessive, especially being from GA. I don't have anywhere near that amount

Unless it’s from savannah GA & somebody been launching a boat in the ocean on the reg….

OP- didn’t read any replies, but depending on your level of OCD (which must register on the scale or you wouldn’t have even bothered posting this lol) you can stop it & prevent further rust or go to the level of guaranteeing no rust ever again & having the undercarriage look “better” than new.

if the latter is what you’re after do the following:
1) hit up all those rusty areas some way to knock off existing rust to good metal- many ways to do this starting w/ the slow cheap elbow grease way using wire brushes & sand paper & tack cloth, or using some abrasive wheel/brushes that attach to a cordless drill, or even better/easier yet buy a cheap *** media blast gun & use something lightly abrasive like walnut shells (check out harbor freight for all this stuff)

2) you’ll need some paper grocery bags/drop cloth/plastic wrap etc + automotive painters tape to mask off the shocks/rear wheels/brake component areas- (or remove em like I did before) & then spray down the rear diff & axles & leaf shackles w/ something like Rustoleum heavy duty semi gloss black in a rattle can, do 3 light coats wait 20-30 mins in between applications. Let that dry over night

3) for everything else metal (or non-metal) aside from the fancy fox shocks/brake caliper/spindle area that you will want to keep its original color- douse the entire undercarriage/transfer case/tranny/frame/drop the spare etc every nut/bolt - including the parts you painted w/ Amsoil HDMP - I used 6 cans for the initial application, get it deep into the holes/cavities of frame. It goes on runny but dries to a pseudo tacky hydrophobic bees-wax finish that you can “layer” to the point it’s pretty much semi-permanent- MUCH MUCH more so than stuff like fluid film, it leaves light colored components a slightly amber tint, but anything bare steel or formerly black basically turns back to dark black. This is why I don’t recommend putting it on the other “showy” components I mentioned - after this initial application 1-2 can touch up every year or every other year will more than suffice- this stuff will also repel dirt/dust & hose off clean

3) the rest of the stuff that you don’t coat in Amsoil and/or spray paint? I personally use Yamashield marine protectant spray- it’s for Yamaha marine engines can also clean metal up, but it’s an anti-corrosion protective film that goes on clear & smells good - you fog engines w/ this stuff. It’s fine (good actually) on electrical components rubber or vinyl or plastic- fine for all of it. I treated the shocks/brake calipers/spindles & entire engine & engine bay w/ this stuff. Not as long lasting as the Amsoil HDMP but comes off easier & can be reapplied easily too- doesn’t smell bad or look like crap like fluid film, doesn’t rub off on you as easily either once applied.

this can all be done for relatively short $$$- just takes some prep time, the right supplies, elbow grease & an OCD mindset.

the truck is so high up it’s easy enough, buy some eye protection & a face mask & a cheap dolly you’ll be done in a weekend. Pick a dry weekend

driving the truck onto ramps makes it that much easier

 

[JohnyPython]

This looks interesting...



Holy smokes can’t even post videos now.