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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
RPG's "Stage 2 Kit": Rear frame support and Fox Air Bumps
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<blockquote data-quote="BigJ" data-source="post: 146448" data-attributes="member: 62"><p>By the way, notice how the pad has been moved to the outside of the leaf. The stock location is inside the leaf. Effectively, that’s about 8-9” of outboard movement on each side. What’s the point? By moving further out (as far as it can go, by the way) you’re minimizing “duckwalk” of the axle; a situation where the axle literally looks like its waddling like a duck if viewed from behind. Some have experienced this so badly that they’ve broken axle housings. </p><p></p><p>Another advantage? This approach basically eliminates wheel hop.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187157[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Here is showing the cross brace going above the frame and below the bed. It slides right in, and then it captured by and bolted to the supports once in place, creating a solid unit from side to side.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187158[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187159[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Now the frame support slides on the frame. This is a CNC cut, precision welded part made of 3/16” plate steel. By design, it extends slightly higher than the frame, on the outboard facing side. Why? In theory, this design maintains the integrity of the frame’s crush zone. If you are hit from behind, the frame will still fold as designed, protecting you. The extra length of this mount just makes sure it folds up or inward. And that cross brace? It ties the two supports together independent of the frame, so when that stop is under load the braces don’t torque the frame. So in other words, it strengthens the part of the frame that needs it, and yet still allows the frame to crush for safety if ever needed. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]187160[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187161[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187162[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187163[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Its locked to the frame via that grade 8 hardware. The nut goes inside the frame and the bolt bolts down to it, clamping the support to the frame from the outside. Once torqued down, this design actually ends up pulling the frame into the support, and locking it there in place. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]187164[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187165[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Here’s where the strength of this part, and how its designed become very apparent. See that daylight there? This was with the support bolted down but not torqued yet. What you’re seeing there is evidence of my bent frame.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187166[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And this is after torquing it down. All gone the bend!</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187167[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Here you can see the top of the bump stop mount</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187168[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>And installed</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187169[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187170[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]187171[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Job done!</p><p>[ATTACH=full]187172[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>A couple other notes:</p><p>The Fox 2.5” Air Stops come preloaded with 200psi of nitrogen. That’s a lot of pressure to run with on the road, but just about right for off road use. On road, a good starting point is probably 100psi or so, maybe moving up to 120psi. That O ring is used to show you where the stop’s max compression was, and you can play with pressures from there. I don’t have a way (yet) of adjusting the pressure, so I left them at 200psi for now. I’ll see how I like it for on road use, and will probably get a gauge and recharge canister soon so I can play if needed.</p><p></p><p>The install of the bumps is literally a 2 minute job per side. Obviously do what your budget dictates, but give serious thought to buying the supports that are ready for them first, rather than the option without. You might never plan on adding stops, but if you ever change your mind, you’ll be a very happy camper that you got the stuff that are ready for ‘em. Other than initial cost, tere’s no disadvantage otherwise.</p><p></p><p>Officially speaking, RPG recommends professional installation for these. But, I don’t see any reason you and a buddy couldn’t knock these out in a few hours in your driveway. Other than a torque wrench and big ass sockets and wrench, you don’t need any special tools to make this happen.</p><p></p><p>I can’t thank Corey of RPG enough. His expertise is obvious within minutes of talking to him, and his professionalism is first class. He stopped working many times to llet me take dozens of pics, ask a bunch of questions and to make sure I understood not only the how, but the why. He also pointed out several things to me, totally unrelated to his products offering helpful advise and tips. He loves this stuff, and it clearly shows. I can’t speak more highly of the experience I’ve had with both Corey and Jarrett.</p><p></p><p>And finally, I gotta give major props to my very good friend bstoner59, and my new bud RaptorAddict. These guys took a rainy Saturday out of their busy lives to come down, get wet muddy oily and greasy while working on my truck. They kept me clean, letting me take pics and notes so I could properly document all this for you guys. If you ever get the chance, please give ‘em an ‘atta boy’ thanks for making yesterday, and this post, really happen. (and it was very cool to meet MicTouch and Mrs. MicTouch who joined us for lunch!)</p><p></p><p>Questions? Fire away!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="BigJ, post: 146448, member: 62"] By the way, notice how the pad has been moved to the outside of the leaf. The stock location is inside the leaf. Effectively, that’s about 8-9” of outboard movement on each side. What’s the point? By moving further out (as far as it can go, by the way) you’re minimizing “duckwalk” of the axle; a situation where the axle literally looks like its waddling like a duck if viewed from behind. Some have experienced this so badly that they’ve broken axle housings. Another advantage? This approach basically eliminates wheel hop. [ATTACH=full]187157[/ATTACH] Here is showing the cross brace going above the frame and below the bed. It slides right in, and then it captured by and bolted to the supports once in place, creating a solid unit from side to side. [ATTACH=full]187158[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187159[/ATTACH] Now the frame support slides on the frame. This is a CNC cut, precision welded part made of 3/16” plate steel. By design, it extends slightly higher than the frame, on the outboard facing side. Why? In theory, this design maintains the integrity of the frame’s crush zone. If you are hit from behind, the frame will still fold as designed, protecting you. The extra length of this mount just makes sure it folds up or inward. And that cross brace? It ties the two supports together independent of the frame, so when that stop is under load the braces don’t torque the frame. So in other words, it strengthens the part of the frame that needs it, and yet still allows the frame to crush for safety if ever needed. [ATTACH=full]187160[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187161[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187162[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187163[/ATTACH] Its locked to the frame via that grade 8 hardware. The nut goes inside the frame and the bolt bolts down to it, clamping the support to the frame from the outside. Once torqued down, this design actually ends up pulling the frame into the support, and locking it there in place. [ATTACH=full]187164[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187165[/ATTACH] Here’s where the strength of this part, and how its designed become very apparent. See that daylight there? This was with the support bolted down but not torqued yet. What you’re seeing there is evidence of my bent frame. [ATTACH=full]187166[/ATTACH] And this is after torquing it down. All gone the bend! [ATTACH=full]187167[/ATTACH] Here you can see the top of the bump stop mount [ATTACH=full]187168[/ATTACH] And installed [ATTACH=full]187169[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187170[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]187171[/ATTACH] Job done! [ATTACH=full]187172[/ATTACH] A couple other notes: The Fox 2.5” Air Stops come preloaded with 200psi of nitrogen. That’s a lot of pressure to run with on the road, but just about right for off road use. On road, a good starting point is probably 100psi or so, maybe moving up to 120psi. That O ring is used to show you where the stop’s max compression was, and you can play with pressures from there. I don’t have a way (yet) of adjusting the pressure, so I left them at 200psi for now. I’ll see how I like it for on road use, and will probably get a gauge and recharge canister soon so I can play if needed. The install of the bumps is literally a 2 minute job per side. Obviously do what your budget dictates, but give serious thought to buying the supports that are ready for them first, rather than the option without. You might never plan on adding stops, but if you ever change your mind, you’ll be a very happy camper that you got the stuff that are ready for ‘em. Other than initial cost, tere’s no disadvantage otherwise. Officially speaking, RPG recommends professional installation for these. But, I don’t see any reason you and a buddy couldn’t knock these out in a few hours in your driveway. Other than a torque wrench and big ass sockets and wrench, you don’t need any special tools to make this happen. I can’t thank Corey of RPG enough. His expertise is obvious within minutes of talking to him, and his professionalism is first class. He stopped working many times to llet me take dozens of pics, ask a bunch of questions and to make sure I understood not only the how, but the why. He also pointed out several things to me, totally unrelated to his products offering helpful advise and tips. He loves this stuff, and it clearly shows. I can’t speak more highly of the experience I’ve had with both Corey and Jarrett. And finally, I gotta give major props to my very good friend bstoner59, and my new bud RaptorAddict. These guys took a rainy Saturday out of their busy lives to come down, get wet muddy oily and greasy while working on my truck. They kept me clean, letting me take pics and notes so I could properly document all this for you guys. If you ever get the chance, please give ‘em an ‘atta boy’ thanks for making yesterday, and this post, really happen. (and it was very cool to meet MicTouch and Mrs. MicTouch who joined us for lunch!) Questions? Fire away! [/QUOTE]
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GEN 1 (2010-2014) Ford SVT Raptor Forums
Ford Raptor Suspension Discussion and Modification
RPG's "Stage 2 Kit": Rear frame support and Fox Air Bumps
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