Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Lighting Modifications Forum [GEN 1]' started by MagicMtnDan, Jun 27, 2010.
Don't need math anymore, just Google it...
I think I may use the Posi-locks. Have you used them in the past?
I was thinking of using these under my hood:
Love posi-lock connectors. I actually use posi-twists which is a variation. Used them for years over soldering and never had an issue (dry location.) Never saw the weather proof version you linked before.
Is anyone running security nuts on their 20 inch light-bar in the bumper? I do not believe there is enough room to use the rigid ones since the bumperettes would prevent you from being able to insert the key.
I think the only way to do it would be to take the bumperettes off...and I really do not want to do that!
I was finally able to finish my install of my Rigid 20" Light Bar, White Floods, and Amber Spots.
I used the Upfitter switches (#'s 1-3) as my main power supply and then used 3 different relays such that if the Upfitter switches are "On", the 20" Light Bar comes on with my High Beams (Upfitter switch #1), the White Floods come on with either the High or Low Beams (Upfitter switch #2), and the Amber Spots come on with my Parking Lights (Upfitter switch #3). I can turn any/all Rigid lights off via the Upfitter switches.
Ok I know this is probably a stupid question to some of you I get it . I bought a 40 inch light bar and it's now mounted and everything under my hood . I ordered a rigid harness and wired it (red positive wire) directly to my red upfitter ( under my dash I did yellow to red) and grounded my black wire ( tried negative on battery and fender bolts) . Here's my issue , my light bar won't turn off. It's fully on 100 % of the time and my axillary switch in the cabin always has the orange light on no matter the position (on or off) as soon as the key is turned . Yes all my connections are fine... I hAvent soldered any of them because I was going to do that after everything is working properly ... HELLLLLLP ohhhhh and I got rid of the relay and switch that came with the harness by cutting away everything but what attaches to my bar ( so basically I just wired it strait to the up fitter)
So why did you buy a Rigid wiring harness? You have a Rigid lightbar without parts? If you're cutting off everything anyway??
Sounds like your wiring inside the firewall is crossed. Did you connect the upfitter switch wiring between the cab and engine bay yourself?
You wired it directly to the battery? That's why it's always on when the truck is on. Wire the upfitter passthrough directly to the light bar 12v+. The upfitter will supply the power when you flip it instead of battery constantly powering it.
Where can I order these!
We can set you up with everything you need, Roy!
I'll send you a PM now!
Separate names with a comma.