power cuts in higher rpms?

[M3sparky]

hey guys, i have a stock 18 raptor i bought less than 2 weeks ago, only have put a k&n filter in the stock airbox so far. anyway i had ordered a tune for it but hesitant to install it until i get this resolved , since i think i may need to take it to the dealer to see if theres anything wrong with the software. i have noticed it would jerk or have power cuts in the higher rpms and they are very short like half a secont , i dont notice them in the lower gears, only when im on the freeway or higher speeds and when i go wot it would have a power surge for very short time and go back to its normal self and would do it again sometimes in the same gear. i tried to wot it in manual shifting today and it was a bit harsher power surge/cut for a slight half secont or so and would continue driving regular right after . i have noticed it many times now, i just took a vacation to newport beach and put 1400 miles on it now . wondering if anyone else had this problem or if a tune would take care of it? i prob should have the dealer check the software first though before installing anything.

 

[coder]

I'd have the dealer check it out before you do anything else.

 

[lawdog]

I would (a) follow the break-in procedures for at least a while, and (b) let the dealer check it before you do any other mods.

 

[FORZDA 1]

Sounds like poor fuel quality to me...

 

[M3sparky]

Sounds like poor fuel quality to me...

i am in commifornia as some would put it, they have the shit 91 gas here. i only use chevron/shell or mobile gas pumps and of course only 91. wish they had 93

 

[FORZDA 1]

i am in commifornia as some would put it, they have the shit 91 gas here. i only use chevron/shell or mobile gas pumps and of course only 91. wish they had 93

Yeah, then I would be pretty sure it is the poor fuel quality. Not much you can do about it other than buy some unleaded race fuel and mix it yourself. If you're interested in more power and don't care much for cost or fuel mileage, then a specific E-30 to full E-85 tune is likely the best route and be (semi)legal. Your tailpipe emissions will be less than gasoline!

As for the K&N filter, if it is one of the original oiled-gauze types, I would toss it in the trash and put the OEM back in. The K&Ns are truly the worst "filtering" air filter on the market today. The OEM is not a restriction, but if you must have aftermarket, I recommend the AEM synthetic "dry-flow" version. Oddly enough, K&N actually manufactures and sells the better AEM brand.

 

[OPT PRIME]

hey guys, i have a stock 18 raptor i bought less than 2 weeks ago, only have put a k&n filter in the stock airbox so far. anyway i had ordered a tune for it but hesitant to install it until i get this resolved , since i think i may need to take it to the dealer to see if theres anything wrong with the software. i have noticed it would jerk or have power cuts in the higher rpms and they are very short like half a secont , i dont notice them in the lower gears, only when im on the freeway or higher speeds and when i go wot it would have a power surge for very short time and go back to its normal self and would do it again sometimes in the same gear. i tried to wot it in manual shifting today and it was a bit harsher power surge/cut for a slight half secont or so and would continue driving regular right after . i have noticed it many times now, i just took a vacation to newport beach and put 1400 miles on it now . wondering if anyone else had this problem or if a tune would take care of it? i prob should have the dealer check the software first though before installing anything.

I had this, it was bad gas. Try 91 from a reputable station.


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[1roadking]

Could be over oiling on your K and N filter.

 

[FORZDA 1]

Could be over oiling on your K and N filter.

This is so very true if using the original oiled gauze crap.

 

[M3sparky]

Yeah, then I would be pretty sure it is the poor fuel quality. Not much you can do about it other than buy some unleaded race fuel and mix it yourself. If you're interested in more power and don't care much for cost or fuel mileage, then a specific E-30 to full E-85 tune is likely the best route and be (semi)legal. Your tailpipe emissions will be less than gasoline!

As for the K&N filter, if it is one of the original oiled-gauze types, I would toss it in the trash and put the OEM back in. The K&Ns are truly the worst "filtering" air filter on the market today. The OEM is not a restriction, but if you must have aftermarket, I recommend the AEM synthetic "dry-flow" version. Oddly enough, K&N actually manufactures and sells the better AEM brand.

thats weird i wouldnt think 91 would be a issue for it, ecp with the top branded gas i used. i would love to have e85 tune for it, but not sure what i have to do to make it full e85, other than probably the fuel pumps and tune, possibly injectors like i did on the gtr, id have to research this on the forum to see what i would have to do to get it working on e85, only issue with that is i would need regular gas for out of town trips or where its not available so if i cant have a flex fuel tune where i can fill up 91 or e85 anytime then id prob have to stick to just 91 and do a blend once in a while when i am able to. about the stock filter, this is the first time hearing that its not that restrictive, i guess nowdays they are making much better filters than before, i have always changed my intake or filters depending on the car or truck type, and noticed better fuel mileage with them in the past. if the stock filters are just as good with air flow then i might just toss that back in there or try the dry version your refering to. thanks

 

[M3sparky]

Could be over oiling on your K and N filter.

i noticed the same issue when i drove it on the stock filter and the gas the dealer had put in the truck im not sure what was in it when i bought it, but i noticed teh same issue the same day and i wasnt driving it to redline just a half throttle push to get on the freeway and would notice the slight jerks with stock filter, so i dont think its from that, either case i can swap the filters out today and try to drive it and see what happens.

 

[M3sparky]

I had this, it was bad gas. Try 91 from a reputable station.


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thanks for chiming in, did you take it to the dealer? wondering what they told you or if they did anything to it. what gas have you been using that it doesnt do it anymore on? i filled shell yesterday halfway home in the middle of nowhere with 91. might go with chevron next to see if it helps, or toss a can of octane booster to see if it helps , as i have some on my shelf now.

 

[M3sparky]

Yeah, then I would be pretty sure it is the poor fuel quality. Not much you can do about it other than buy some unleaded race fuel and mix it yourself. If you're interested in more power and don't care much for cost or fuel mileage, then a specific E-30 to full E-85 tune is likely the best route and be (semi)legal. Your tailpipe emissions will be less than gasoline!

As for the K&N filter, if it is one of the original oiled-gauze types, I would toss it in the trash and put the OEM back in. The K&Ns are truly the worst "filtering" air filter on the market today. The OEM is not a restriction, but if you must have aftermarket, I recommend the AEM synthetic "dry-flow" version. Oddly enough, K&N actually manufactures and sells the better AEM brand.

i will put the stock filter back on today if you guys really think its worst on air flow than the stock one, what i liked with k&n is not having to change them all the time and because in the previous years it would restrict the air flow, plus the intakes would allow to hear better turbo spool which i enjoy , but i havent heard any difference with this filter, if the dry oem filter has better airflow over stock then il order it instead but if its the same then i will stick with the stock version for the first time in my life lol.

 

[gryGhst17]

Avoid fuel additive. Manual says so!!

OP, u sure u weren’t hitting the rev limiter?!


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[SilverBolt]

How high of RPM's? Are you by chance bumping up against the rev limiter?

 

[FORZDA 1]

Avoid fuel additive. Manual says so!!….

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The reason the OEM (all OEMs) say no fuel additives is due to the catalytic converter performance. If you run it every tank continuously it will cause some deterioration in cat efficiency which will likely set a OBD fault. The OEM is on the warranty hook for I think ~8 years, so they don't want the cat to fail "early".

This said, the ONLY octane booster additive that works is MMT. The best (contains the most MMT) on the market today is the NOS brand. There are several others that include a small amount of MMT so they can include it on the label, but not enough to make a difference. If you have the 36 gal fuel tank, it will take at least two bottles of even the NOS booster, so around $25 worth!

I live in Virginia with great 93 octane fuel, but it has 10% ethanol. Fresh ethanol is great for boosted engines, BUT it evaporates pretty quickly which will turn a tank of 93 into a whole lot less octane after a while of sitting. If the station doesn't sell much premium 93, you may even buy a tank of "bad" 93 occasionally. I've had it happen several times and it makes you think something is wrong with the engine. I have one toy tuned right to the limit of pump gas and a tank of bad gas can result in significant detonation event(s) and catastrophic damage.

 

[FORZDA 1]

i will put the stock filter back on today if you guys really think its worst on air flow than the stock one, what i liked with k&n is not having to change them all the time and because in the previous years it would restrict the air flow, plus the intakes would allow to hear better turbo spool which i enjoy , but i havent heard any difference with this filter, if the dry oem filter has better airflow over stock then il order it instead but if its the same then i will stick with the stock version for the first time in my life lol.

Others may chime in on the filter issue, but the answer is YES, the AEM dry-flow is "better" than the OEM filter. I bought into the K&N filter is the best advertising for years until I found out for myself just how bad they are. After I did more research into K&N I found that even the off-road racers sponsored by K&N and thusly HAD to run K&N filters ALWAYS run a closed cell foam "pre-filter" to catch the real small dust-sized particles. If not the engine would grind itself into junk in short order.

The bottom line is that when you can see light clearly through the filter, it isn't going to filter anything other than rocks and sticks...

 

[1roadking]

How big of a power cut are we talking about? Are you revving and it cuts out or is it when it 1st shifts? There is a little turbo lag on initial hard tip in from low revs. I have noticed on hot day under hard prolonged acceleration and flutter feel from the turbo pressure like the ECM is protecting the motor from heat.

 

[OPT PRIME]

thanks for chiming in, did you take it to the dealer? wondering what they told you or if they did anything to it. what gas have you been using that it doesnt do it anymore on? i filled shell yesterday halfway home in the middle of nowhere with 91. might go with chevron next to see if it helps, or toss a can of octane booster to see if it helps , as i have some on my shelf now.

I did not take it on, almost. Instead I plugged in a scanner and looked at the knock voltage, sure enough it was pulling timing at high RPM and boost not to mention a ton of misfire codes on multiple cylinders.

I added a bottle of VP booster that will jack the whole tank 2 octane (80 points for 10 gallons) and topped with 93 from Mobile, problem gradually went away.

Sometimes gas stations cheat and don’t actually give you 93, the ratio is cut with 87 or even worse just straight 87! The one time I needed fuel and went to XYZ instead of making the U - turn for name brand.


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[M3sparky]

Avoid fuel additive. Manual says so!!

OP, u sure u weren’t hitting the rev limiter?!


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i was driving it in auto mode 99 percent of the time so no it wasnt hitting the rev limiter, only once yesterday while fiddling with manual shifting mode i hit the rev limiter as i didnt ecpect it to rev up so fast in first, i have a ton of experience with paddle shifting thats the only way i drive my gtr and m5 for years i never drive them in auto but they dont have a 10 gear trans, so it bounced off the rev a couple times yesterday which isnt a problem its there for safety reasons not to go over, but that was the only time i had hit it , im experiencing this in the higher gears in auto mode and they are very slight jerks nothing crazy but def noticable.