Post upgrade 1 speaker distorting

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RRitch

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Posts
40
Reaction score
43
Location
NoVA
I just completed installing the upgrades in my system and the front right door speaker is distorting badly and I can’t figure out why. I am using a PAC 2.4 active line out converter that is connected to the front speaker outputs from the head unit. From there I have 4 channels out of the LOC feeding into Dayton Audio DSP-408. The first 4 outputs are feeding a 4 channel amp that is driving the front door speakers which are Polk Audio DB-692 and JBL tweeters in the A pillars. The 5th and 6th channel out are feeding a 2 channel amp that are driving the rear door speakers which are Polk Audio DB-652. The 7th and 8th channels are linked together to feed a Kicker HS-10 hideaway sub. The 4 channel and 2 channel amp gain were set using a 1khz test tone and a multi-meter and the sub amp gain was set with a 50hz test tone.

With the exception of the DB-692 in the right front door it sounds really good but the right door sounds horrible. It is distorting and sounds really shrill even at low volume. I have reterminated the wiring at the amp and where the speaker wires from the amp tie back into the factory harness and that made no change. It sounds like the speaker is blown, but it was fine when it was just connected to the head unit before I installed the DSP and amps. I’m going to pull the door apart in the morning and see if the speaker is possibly blown just to make sure but if it is, I am not sure how, I haven’t played it very loud or pushed frequencies to it outside of its range. I wanted to check here and see if any might have any other suggestions of what to look at. I can shut off that speaker in the DSP, but I would much rather figure out the problem and fix it.
 
OP
OP
RRitch

RRitch

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Posts
40
Reaction score
43
Location
NoVA
Spent a couple hours this morning resetting gains and swapping around cables to isolate the problem. Turns out it is a bad channel on the 4 channel amp. The amp is an inexpensive Pioneer that fortunately I am going to be able to return it and get a refund. I just ordered a JL Audio JD400/4 to replace it. it is rated at 75wx4 at 4 ohms which is a little higher than the Pioneer was rated but in reality is significantly more ], because I suspect that the Pioneer is over rated compared to the JL Audio. It will be here Tuesday and then I just have to find a couple hours to get it swapped and setup.
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Posts
31,715
Reaction score
21,691
Location
here, on frf
Spent a couple hours this morning resetting gains and swapping around cables to isolate the problem. Turns out it is a bad channel on the 4 channel amp. The amp is an inexpensive Pioneer that fortunately I am going to be able to return it and get a refund. I just ordered a JL Audio JD400/4 to replace it. it is rated at 75wx4 at 4 ohms which is a little higher than the Pioneer was rated but in reality is significantly more ], because I suspect that the Pioneer is over rated compared to the JL Audio. It will be here Tuesday and then I just have to find a couple hours to get it swapped and setup.
just make sure you have crossover points set before turning it up. dont want to blow any speakers
 
OP
OP
RRitch

RRitch

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Posts
40
Reaction score
43
Location
NoVA
just make sure you have crossover points set before turning it up. dont want to blow any speakers
Yeah I hear you. Sub is set to 20Hz-100Hz, door speakers front door speakers at 100Hz - 4kHz tweeters are 4kHz - 20kHz and the rear door speakers are 100Hz - 18kHz. That was just a base set to get it up and running. Once I disable the factory eq with Forscan and get the replacement amp put in I will use an RTA to tweak crossovers if needed and set the eq.
 

Wraith SRT

FRF Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2023
Posts
98
Reaction score
110
Location
STL, MO
If I were you, get rid of the LOC in favor of the PAC AmpPRO AP-FD31 - you already have your amps, so bypass the entire factory processing unit all together...very much worth it. You can then send a clean signal into your DSP and tune from there.

You'll be happy with the JL...I have both the XD600/1 powering (2) JL TW12 v3's and an XD 800/8 all the others (Hertz Millie's).
 
OP
OP
RRitch

RRitch

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Posts
40
Reaction score
43
Location
NoVA
If I were you, get rid of the LOC in favor of the PAC AmpPRO AP-FD31 - you already have your amps, so bypass the entire factory processing unit all together...very much worth it. You can then send a clean signal into your DSP and tune from there.

You'll be happy with the JL...I have both the XD600/1 powering (2) JL TW12 v3's and an XD 800/8 all the others (Hertz Millie's).
That may be a possible future upgrade to it, but I already went WAY beyond what I was planning to do/spend on it. It started out as just adding a powered subwoofer and kind of spun out from there.
 
OP
OP
RRitch

RRitch

Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2023
Posts
40
Reaction score
43
Location
NoVA
I was just looking and it looks like the AmpPRO kits are for the B&O systems. Mine is not a B&O so no factory amp or subwoofer.
 

greatone99

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2019
Posts
620
Reaction score
264
Location
ma
That may be a possible future upgrade to it, but I already went WAY beyond what I was planning to do/spend on it. It started out as just adding a powered subwoofer and kind of spun out from there.
yea mine started out as a front door speaker upgrade ,11000$ later here I am lol
 
Top