PAC Amp Pro - Bass not as strong as it should be??

[smurfslayer]

That’s what I’m saying. With it spliced I have enough to rattle the mirrors at a decent volume. With the PAC system, barely anything. Leading me to believe the PAC system is faulty or I’m missing something.

I’ve got the RF DSR1 so not familiar. Theirs uses an app that periodically resets the bass to zero. Not sure why, the main amp channels never reset.

I’ll defer to users with PAC experience here.

 

[evan9r]

I tried the DSR back in 2018 when they first came out. In theory it was a great idea. However, it had too many bugs so I sent it back. Thinking the PAC Amp Pro is not much better. One thing I havent done is update the firmware.

Would the AudioControl D-5 1300 be an easier choice? I know its much more expensive. The only thing I am unsure of is how it grabs the signal from the radio.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I tried the DSR back in 2018 when they first came out. In theory it was a great idea. However, it had too many bugs so I sent it back. Thinking the PAC Amp Pro is not much better. One thing I havent done is update the firmware.

Would the AudioControl D-5 1300 be an easier choice? I know its much more expensive. The only thing I am unsure of is how it grabs the signal from the radio.

i cant help you if you dont tell me whats installed right now. specific part numbers, or model numbers.

 

[evan9r]

How do you like the MTI 10”? Does it hit the seat when it’s in the up position? That’s the only thing I worry about since I normally ride with it up for extra cargo capacity.

So I did a little testing. The bass output is no different between the rear output and the sub output RCAs on the PAP. Therefore the bass level knob only turns down the bass from a normal level, not up.

Again, if 1 is barely audible on the front speakers and I fade to rear only, the bass doesn’t even come on till level 15! So it sounds like I don’t even have a subwoofer till it gets to almost 25.

I could manipulate it by turning the Kicker Key amp hooked to the front speakers down which lowers the front speaker volume and allows the bass to come on sooner but then that introduces clipping which in turn cuts the amp off.

Even if I go with a different setup, I don’t see it fixing my issue with the PAP.

 

[Hush Car Audio]

How do you like the MTI 10”? Does it hit the seat when it’s in the up position? That’s the only thing I worry about since I normally ride with it up for extra cargo capacity.

So I did a little testing. The bass output is no different between the rear output and the sub output RCAs on the PAP. Therefore the bass level knob only turns down the bass from a normal level, not up.

Again, if 1 is barely audible on the front speakers and I fade to rear only, the bass doesn’t even come on till level 15! So it sounds like I don’t even have a subwoofer till it gets to almost 25.

I could manipulate it by turning the Kicker Key amp hooked to the front speakers down which lowers the front speaker volume and allows the bass to come on sooner but then that introduces clipping which in turn cuts the amp off.

Even if I go with a different setup, I don’t see it fixing my issue with the PAP.

Sounds to me like you got your signal wires crossed somewhere before the key amp.

 

[evan9r]

Explain?

Before I sound stupid, I’m guessing you’re talking about the RCA/preamp outputs that are labeled, because everything else is plug and play….

 

[smurfslayer]

again, I don’t have the PAC so I’ll have to defer.

Yes, the MTI behind the seat enclosure is super tight. seat down, you are good. seat will come up about half way before crushing the sub screen. discussion with MTI revealed they shouldn’t have sent the screen. Seat can come all the way up, and at that point, the sub is definitely hitting the seat. I covered the rear of the seat with spare dynamat to keep the sharp stuff off of the sub.

A more savvy user than I revealed that you can lock the sear bottom and unlock the seat back. I’ve not checked the clearance with this but have heard it was feasible. If I run with the passenger rear seat locked I keep the bass turned down to prevent abusing the sub.

There are aftermarket brackets to move the seat forward, but I have not installed them. The JL amp + sub and MTI enclosure is a great fit for a 50-80w rms main amp.

 

[Hush Car Audio]

Explain?

Before I sound stupid, I’m guessing you’re talking about the RCA/preamp outputs that are labeled, because everything else is plug and play….

You're not stupid. The symptoms sound like the same thing that happens when a wire is crossed incorrectly. If you installed them correctly then perhaps it was wired internally incorrectly. I've yet to see that happen but just saying the symptoms are very similar to a crossed line or perhaps a bad RCA. Have you tried using different sets of RCAs to see if that is the issue?

 

[evan9r]

The RCAs I am using are labeled and I have tried only the rear and the sub ones both in their respective locations on the PAP and swapped. I am not using rear speakers however, only front components and the sub.

Is there a way to test using a voltmeter on what each pre amp output should be?

 

[Hush Car Audio]

First, you aren't supposed to tune it with the sub active. Second, that amp doesn't work well in bi amp mode on this truck end of story. If you run it in passive mode and using the crossovers that came with your component set then the audio quality will improve significantly along with the volume.