PAC Amp Pro - Bass not as strong as it should be??

[evan9r]

I have a PAC Amp Pro installed on my 2017 and its never worked quite like I expected it too. The problem is the bass is too quiet. Even with the bass level knob all the way up. Ive tried manipulating the system by lowering the volume on the PAP using the minimum volume adjustment and that still doesnt help. Tried resetting it back to stock also.

Basically the volume of the front speakers is louder than the sub even with the bass level turned up and the volume at a moderate level. Just for kicks I went back to the original sub speaker wires coming from the Sony amp and the bass was much louder and more "in tune" with the volume of the front speakers. Does anyone have any guess to what might be causing this?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

what are your amp settings at? also need to know what equipment you are using

 

[evan9r]

The front mids and tweeters are morel Maximos and are powered by a kicker key 200. Gains are set per the instructions, any higher or lower and the limiter kicks on so I’m pretty sure it’s set correctly.

The sub is a kicker 8” in the stock sub box powered by a Kenwood 300 watt 2 channel amp. Gains are set pretty high but it doesn’t have a limiter like the kicker does so I’m not 100 percent certain it’s set at the perfect setting. Just tuned by ear the same way the kicker was.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

what sub and amp ecaxtly? need to know specifics. also the oem box sucks and is part of your problem.

 

[evan9r]

Obviously the oem box is not perfect but it’s not the problem in this equation. The sub is the one from the $500 diy thread.. Kicker CompRT 8” and the Kenwood 600watt max, 300 watt rms amp that was suggested.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Obviously the oem box is not perfect but it’s not the problem in this equation. The sub is the one from the $500 diy thread.. Kicker CompRT 8” and the Kenwood 600watt max, 300 watt rms amp that was suggested.

kicker makes them in 2ohm and 4 ohm. the amp may not match the speakers,thats why i need model numbers. a 2 channel amp is only going to put out half the power if its a 2 ohm subwoofer. most 2 channel amps are not 2 ohm stable..... specifics bob. specifics.

 

[smurfslayer]

You don’t have enough sub. 300w rms is about enough for the stock 25w Amp and not much more. I had the same sub setup.

hit up mobile toyz/MTI
I run their behind the seat 10” single enclosure pushed by JL 450w amp.
my main amp is 4x75.

 

[evan9r]

I know the system is not optimum and I will probably end up replacing it all eventually if I ever find a decent Audio shop to do it for me. But the issue is the PAC Amp Pro has virtually no bass signal. My next attempt is to try the rear RCA outputs and see what happens. There is no reason why I cant even tell if I have a subwoofer or not with the bass knob turned all the way up. Even if I unplug the front speakers, the bass doesnt start coming on until around half volume which is definitely not right. I even get more bass even with the rolloff with the Sony amp than I do with the PAC Amp Pro.

 

[smurfslayer]

Kenwood 300 watt 2 channel amp.

The sub is the one from the $500 diy thread.. Kicker CompRT 8” and the Kenwood 600watt max, 300 watt rms amp that was suggested.

kicker makes them in 2ohm and 4 ohm. the amp may not match the speakers,thats why i need model numbers. a 2 channel amp is only going to put out half the power if its a 2 ohm subwoofer. most 2 channel amps are not 2 ohm stable

Noah may have it here. The Kenwood 300w amp you want is the 2 ohm mono amp that can be bridged. KAC M3001 not M3002/4

I didn’t use the PAC with the Kicker/Kenwood, I just ran line level spliced RCA jacks off the factory amp. Even with bass roll off I was getting enough to vibrate the mirrors.

 

[evan9r]

That’s what I’m saying. With it spliced I have enough to rattle the mirrors at a decent volume. With the PAC system, barely anything. Leading me to believe the PAC system is faulty or I’m missing something.