p0151 &p2629

[DivorcePresent]

I have searched Hi and Low in this forum. I can't find pictures that will load of the harness people have talked about melting. I don't know if that is the issue. I just got out of the army today and I am supposed to drive from CO to VA tomorrow. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just had the fuel relocation kit installed, and I had the bank 2 Sensor 1 replaced at the dealership. worked great for a week and now the codes again. It runs great most of the time. Every once in a while it will throw a p0308 code. The truck stutters really bad and flashes the CEL. I am very frustrated. I just bought the truck a month ago. the truck looked like it was in great shape the more I dig into it. The more I feel like an idiot for buying it. by the dust under the dash and issues I am having with the truck I think some one beat on it pretty hard. 123k 2011 SCREW. I am not opposed to putting money into it, but I was hoping to at least make it back to VA before problems started to hit. I am hitting some major stressors all at the same time right now. Moving, starting a new job, getting divorced, and now my truck. BTW No moving companies have anything big enough to haul this monstrosity.

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

p0308 is a cylinder 8 misfire code. P0151 is the Bank2 sensor 1 O2 sensor low voltage code. P2629 O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open.

Here is what I would do before your trip back to Va (I am in Virginia, thank you for your service!)

First, go under the truck and check the wiring harness and connectors leading ot the forward O2 sensor at the front of the catalytic converter. Make sure the O2 sensor is fully seated in the **** on the converter first. Then check the wiring to it. Check for the wiring to be either broken or twisted bad (tech not paying attention to twisting the wiring while ******** the sensor into the converter.). Often if it is twisted you can have a broken wire inside it's sheathing. If it isn't twisted like that, disconnect the connector to the main harness and make sure there are no bear wires, burned wires or even that the small metal wiring leads in the connector itself are fully seated in the connector. MY 2011 had all kinds of issues with those wiring leads backing out of connectors throughout the truck.

Once you inspect all of that, if you find nothing wrong, trace the harness itself up into the engine bay. While tracing it, look for any and all possible damage to the loom. The slightest damage could be causing your issue there.

As for the cylinder 8 misfire. Sense it is intermittent, make sure the plug wire is fully seated on the plug on the side of the head. Inspect the top of the coil for possible damage where the electrical harness connects to it. If that checks out, change that plug (it is the rear most plug near the firewall on the driver side.)

If all of that checks out for it, look for a common issue between the two systems you are having trouble with. While rare, you might have unseen damage in a harness behind the engine between it and the firewall or elsewhere in that general area.

That should get you started narrowing this all down. But if you need more assistance, call my shop at 276-728-0280 if you need more assistance or need help along the way to fixing it or if you need anything on your way home.

 

[BenBB]

I am hitting some major stressors all at the same time right now. Moving, starting a new job, getting divorced, and now my truck. BTW No moving companies have anything big enough to haul this monstrosity.

Road trip.

 

[DivorcePresent]

p0308 is a cylinder 8 misfire code. P0151 is the Bank2 sensor 1 O2 sensor low voltage code. P2629 O2 Sensor Pumping Current Trim Circuit/Open.

I have a Wifi OBD2 Reader. The codes keep popping up, but in the pictures the O2 sensor is working just fine. My other thought is the OBD2 reader is dumb and doesn't register the O2 sensors in the correct order. The B1, S1 gets no voltage. The B1, S2 Will consistently read .7.

Here is what I would do before your trip back to Va (I am in Virginia, thank you for your service!)

I am excited to head back. Your about two hours away from my home town. Chatham, VA.

First, go under the truck and check the wiring harness and connectors leading ot the forward O2 sensor at the front of the catalytic converter. Make sure the O2 sensor is fully seated in the **** on the converter first. Then check the wiring to it. Check for the wiring to be either broken or twisted bad (tech not paying attention to twisting the wiring while ******** the sensor into the converter.). Often if it is twisted you can have a broken wire inside it's sheathing. If it isn't twisted like that, disconnect the connector to the main harness and make sure there are no bear wires, burned wires or even that the small metal wiring leads in the connector itself are fully seated in the connector. MY 2011 had all kinds of issues with those wiring leads backing out of connectors throughout the truck.

I conducted a check on the wires, They all look good. I can't follow the harness; it goes above the transmission for routing.

Once you inspect all of that, if you find nothing wrong, trace the harness itself up into the engine bay. While tracing it, look for any and all possible damage to the loom. The slightest damage could be causing your issue there.

As for the cylinder 8 misfire. Sense it is intermittent, make sure the plug wire is fully seated on the plug on the side of the head. Inspect the top of the coil for possible damage where the electrical harness connects to it. If that checks out, change that plug (it is the rear most plug near the firewall on the driver side.)

This issue didn't start until I had the truck in the shop for an oil change, fuel pump relay, and o2 sensor changed by the ford dealership. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it got better. It hasn't happened since. I. am thinking of buying a new MAF Sensor.

If all of that checks out for it, look for a common issue between the two systems you are having trouble with. While rare, you might have unseen damage in a harness behind the engine between it and the firewall or elsewhere in that general area.

I am delaying the trip a day and going to get some wiring testing done. Time to bust out the gator clips and voltmeter out.

That should get you started narrowing this all down. But if you need more assistance, call my shop at 276-728-0280 if you need more assistance or need help along the way to fixing it or if you need anything on your way home.

The new job is going to give me quite a bit better financial freedom. That being said; I am going to need a shop to get her really going.

---------- Post added at 11:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:42 AM ----------

Road trip.

That was the initial plan, but Breaking down while towing my Harley does not sound fun...

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ----------

I have checked all the wiring and the loom. It all looks good. No twisting in the 02 sensor. I will take some pictures in a minute of my suspicion the previous owner being an idiot. I know a decent amount about vehicles, but do not consider myself a mechanic. I did keep my 87 BMW running till 420k. The electronics kill me. I am going to go pick up a voltmeter and start testing wires shortly.

 

[DivorcePresent]

So just found the clunk in the front right of the truck. Secondly I can't match the ECU part number it is only coming back as the f250 and the f150 lariat

 

[BenBB]

So just found the clunk in the front right of the truck. Secondly I can't match the ECU part number it is only coming back as the f250 and the f150 lariat

One of those numbers matches what the parts book shows for an '11 with code KCE6; BC3Z-12A650-FCNP. Ouch $588.08, hope that ain't it.

Jeez they hit one out of three shock bolts, that's pretty sad

 

[DivorcePresent]

So the shock mount was a quick fix. I have searched and searched all the connections. 2 more things I have found. Pretty sure the exhaust is just leaking condensation. The fluid is only water. Would an exhaust leak there not allow for an accurate reading due to loss of back pressure? I know I am just kinda fishing at this point. 2nd the wires that are taped together. I jiggled these around and now I have some readings from the O2 sensor. It will spike to .7 V, but will dump down to .1-.2. I definitely think there is a loose connection somewhere.

 

[Chris@FreedomMotorsports]

The exhaust leaking condensation in that spot would not cause your issue, that is after the cats and both O2 sensors. As for the wiring being taped together, I would definitely go through that and resplice, etc. Good catch there. Let me know how those items turned out.

As for the shock spacer? It was probably done by the previous owner and his buddy with a few cold ones gone through while they removed his aftermarket parts. Kind of hard to imagine how they could make it that bad, I have seen them on backwards, etc, but completely missing the bolts with the spacer is just nuts.

When you get back over this way, give me a shout. We'll set up for a visit. My specialty is "rehabbing" higher mileage trucks. Getting them back to 100% mechanically sound first. Aftermarket upgrades sometimes get thrown in the mix while the vehicles are in the shop, but we love to take high mileage trucks and make them look and run new again.

 

[DivorcePresent]

I made it back to VA. I will be giving you guys a call tomorrow.