Opinions on my suspension upgrades

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mtnghost

mtnghost

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Just for a simple overland rig I would rebuild the stock LCA. Deaver or icon not sure on that one I have Deaver +2 @mwaite09 has Icon setup in stock hight configuration. not sure witch I like better We both are running Eibach in the front On low. Both trucks are very capable of overlanding.
I have been rebuilding the fox 2.5 my self they are not that difficult to do. and the parts and oil cost around 25-28 bucks a shock. Once you get shader valves in all the ones you own.
Liked that the icons were adjustable out the box where the deavers I would have to repurchase if my needs changed or I picked the wrong one. LCA will likely get new ball joints and bushings, whatever it needs. I was thinking geysers in the front if I have to, because I would like the balance of progressive front and rear springs. Factory is progressive from what I gather and I’m ok sticking with them if they are not in dire need of replacement. So far I don’t think I “need” shocks. I have been looking at a pair in the garage sale section that I think I really want but would like to figure out my set up before spending a bunch testing to see what works. Thank you for the heads up on rebuild costs of the factory 2.5 shocks. If I did shocks I really like the idea of the live valve with the controller but it seems like more work and money than it’s worth. Also being able to change my suspension for the different uses is a very tempting feature. For now I just want to get the things that don’t work working. Thanks again for the tips!
 

Jhollowell

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I think it’s hiems in general but with the billet ones you have 3 to replace. The ones you linked only have one at the tire so 1 is cheaper than 3
 

pat247

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Liked that the icons were adjustable out the box where the deavers I would have to repurchase if my needs changed or I picked the wrong one. LCA will likely get new ball joints and bushings, whatever it needs. I was thinking geysers in the front if I have to, because I would like the balance of progressive front and rear springs. Factory is progressive from what I gather and I’m ok sticking with them if they are not in dire need of replacement. So far I don’t think I “need” shocks. I have been looking at a pair in the garage sale section that I think I really want but would like to figure out my set up before spending a bunch testing to see what works. Thank you for the heads up on rebuild costs of the factory 2.5 shocks. If I did shocks I really like the idea of the live valve with the controller but it seems like more work and money than it’s worth. Also being able to change my suspension for the different uses is a very tempting feature. For now I just want to get the things that don’t work working. Thanks again for the tips!
Ford spent a lot of money on R&D developing the Raptor to be good on road and off so replacing parts with factory original is the safest bet. When you start chasing rabbits the costs can escalate in a hurry as changing one item can lead to having to change three more to make it work right. This is just my opinion on modding the Raptor.
 

TomDirt

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Ford spent a lot of money on R&D developing the Raptor to be good on road and off so replacing parts with factory original is the safest bet. When you start chasing rabbits the costs can escalate in a hurry as changing one item can lead to having to change three more to make it work right. This is just my opinion on modding the Raptor.
All the aftermarket UCA designs have slight geometry changes allowing the spindle to droop out a little more and hold alignment when using longer springs/more preload. None of them say you can bolt up 39's, huck it for a hundred feet, or enter the Baja 1000. But you should be able to maintain tire life (with normal tire rotation intervals) while having a slightly lifted front end.
 

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mtnghost

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All the aftermarket UCA designs have slight geometry changes allowing the spindle to droop out a little more and hold alignment when using longer springs/more preload. None of them say you can bolt up 39's, huck it for a hundred feet, or enter the Baja 1000. But you should be able to maintain tire life (with normal tire rotation intervals) while having a slightly lifted front end.
I’m pretty sure the 2009 raptor completed the Baja 1000 mostly stock suspension wise.
 
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mtnghost

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Ford spent a lot of money on R&D developing the Raptor to be good on road and off so replacing parts with factory original is the safest bet. When you start chasing rabbits the costs can escalate in a hurry as changing one item can lead to having to change three more to make it work right. This is just my opinion on modding the Raptor.
These were my thoughts also, but the shop seems to think otherwise. Although I have heard a lot about issues with the UCA, and power steering systems. To be honest, they said the LCA with serviceable ball joints were ok to keep and also the swaybar end links. They recommend doing springs due to the wear the factory’s had and also the extra weight of tent, rack, and other gear.

Oh and the rabbit hole, I have been down them with all twenty of my previous vehicles. Started to think about what I truly need out of the vehicle, and magically I stopped buying a bunch of unnecessary crap and ruining a good thing. Also a big reason for my post, I want to only get what I absolutely need. Thank you for taking the time to respond, your input is appreciated.
 
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mtnghost

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All the aftermarket UCA designs have slight geometry changes allowing the spindle to droop out a little more and hold alignment when using longer springs/more preload. None of them say you can bolt up 39's, huck it for a hundred feet, or enter the Baja 1000. But you should be able to maintain tire life (with normal tire rotation intervals) while having a slightly lifted front end.
Also what are these new UCA? Are these any good?
 

TomDirt

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I’m pretty sure the 2009 raptor completed the Baja 1000 mostly stock suspension wise.
The Born in Baja documentary shows the build Foutz Motorsports did. They used 3 tube bypass 3.0 shocks, (Kings without stickers), that were mounted just below the hood on an engine cage (instead of in the stock coil bucket). And Foutz's tubular chromoly LCA's, UCA's, & 4WD spindles. The axles had to be upgraded for the increased angle at droop. Steering was reinforced. Custom billet tie rods. And in back, the Kings were hung from the rear cage up by the window instead of to the frame. They used hydraulic bump stops instead of the cheesy rubber production ones. Instead of the 3+1 overload leaf pack, Deaver probably built the custom 14 leaf spring packs. Custom traction bars, shackles, and limit straps were required to get the most travel possible without binding the driveshaft. And a trussed custom axle with bigger, heavier tubes and housing.
 

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