Oil leak help

[nomis88]

2017 - 64k miles. No cam phaser work, no valve cover work

looks like I have what is a standard issue, I just wanted to run some details by everyone to see what their thoughts are.

I have oil leaking from the driver side valve cover as well as the HPFP. The leak on the drivers side shows all the same symptoms that people are having with a crack present at the front valve cover bolt

I installed an XDI fuel pump 3k (no leaks present at this time) miles ago. I bought the pump used. It sounds like the bolts securing the pump are a 1 time use (I reused the provided bolts) so I need to buy new bolts and install those.

I installed a catch can 1600 miles ago (no leaks present at this time) and then drove 1600 miles in two trips in a week and noticed the two oil leaks.

I have no codes and the truck runs fine. The oil pressure gauge on the dash shows normal oil pressure

I still need to clean the leaky areas and reverify how bad the leaks are

1) is there any way to screw up the catch can install to cause a leak?

2) how do I QA my catch can install to see if it’s installed incorrectly

3) if my valve covers are not cracked should I replace them?

 

[FordTechOne]

Yes, the HPFP bolts are one-time use. They need to be torqued in 5 stages:

1. Install the high-pressure fuel pump with the mounting plate and the bolts. Tighten the fuel high-pressure fuel pump bolts in the following 5 stages.
   Torque:
   Stage 1: Finger tighten all of the bolts : 0 lb.in (0 Nm)
   Stage 2: Tighten bolt 1 : 1 turn(s)
   Stage 3: Tighten bolt 2 : 1 turn(s)
   Stage 4: Repeat stages 2 and 3, until reaching : 89 lb.in (10 Nm)
   Stage 5: Tighten bolts 1 and 2, in sequence an additional : 45°

1. Tighten the high-pressure fuel pump mounting plate bolt.
   Torque: 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

The valve covers on early models were susceptible to a manufacturing issue in the PCV passages, which can restrict PCV flow. It certainly wouldn’t hurt to upgrade them to the current part number once they come off of back order.

Ford Performance just released a catch can for these engines; if you’re not having luck with your current setup you may want to consider that.

 

[New recaros]

That’s stupid bolt torque sequence. Step 4, tighten until you get to 89 in/lbs then step 5 is, 45 deg more tight? WTF TORQUE is that. Lol. 89 in/lbs plus a quarter turn. Lol opps, addition 1/8 turn. Geez! Ford

 

[FordTechOne]

That’s stupid bolt torque sequence. Step 4, tighten until you get to 89 in/lbs then step 5 is, 45 deg more tight? WTF TORQUE is that. Lol. 89 in/lbs plus a quarter turn. Lol opps, addition 1/8 turn. Geez! Ford

It’s Torque-to-Yield, same concept that has been used on head bolt applications for a couple decades. The bolts stretch during the torque sequence to maintain the desired preload. That is why the bolts are one-time used and must be replaced if removed.

 

[New recaros]

Yea but that last 1/8 turn is very subjective and who know what the actual torque is. Why not just figure out what 89 in/lbs plus an 1/8 turn equates to and say torque to this?