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GEN 2 Oil change summary

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Maintenance Forum' started by Lightning4570, Feb 11, 2019.

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  1. Lightning4570

    Lightning4570 Member

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    Watched a 30-minute Youtube video that was packed with about 3 minutes of useful info. I'll save you 27 minutes here:
    Mine has a 9/18 build date so it has the aluminum pan and steel drain plug with integrated rubber gasket. Just aft of the right-side A-arm is a small access panel in the middle skid plate, held in place by (5) 10mm bolts, which allows access to the drain plug. Good thing I had a 2' x 3' shallow aluminum pan under my oil drain collecting pan, because in addition to the expected eager stream of oil coming out of the plug, some of the oil also drained through 2 adjacent holes in the skid plate. This created a mess, and I'm not exactly a rube where oil changes are concerned--my weekend car is a 911 Turbo which, as a dry sump engine, has both a drain plug in the bottom of the engine case halves plus a separate oil tank to drain and 2 additional drains in the turbos.

    The Raptor is my 4th SVT / Ford Performance product, all of which have been great, but this engineering feature was disappointing to say the least. It will only happen one more time though, as I've ordered a Fumoto F107SX drain valve with extension hose. Many thanks to smarter guys than me posting on this forum.

    Better news is that changing the filter is less messy. Access is through a panel in the forward skid plate just behind the driver's side tow hook, opened by (5) T-40 Torx bolts. Although it's a reach to get to the filter, the good news is that the inevitable spill that occurs initially loosening it will drain through a hole in the skid plate directly under it.

    Jeff
    '97 Taurus SHO (Yahama engine)
    '03 Focus SVT
    '04 Lightning
    '18 Raptor
     
  2. NHbeast

    NHbeast Full Access Member

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    Yeah, Fumoto is the way to go. I've been using a sluice rather than tube, easier to hang than connect(for me) YMMV. Oil filter can be a PIA. I like the Fram with the grippy on/off. Fuckin had to wrestle off the last Fram, too tight. Not to mention, awkward is the word for filter placement. Use thread lube on the two panels, makes it smoother on the next oil change.
     
  3. JohnyPython

    JohnyPython Full Access Member

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    Yup, oil change on the Raptor make you feel like a noob. Won’t be so bad on the next one.

    Fumoto is the way to go.
     
  4. Lightning4570

    Lightning4570 Member

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    Great point on the thread lube for the skid plate access panels. Thanks!
    Jeff
     
  5. goblues38

    goblues38 Full Access Member

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    I did my first oil change at 3,000 miles and tried to extract via pneumatic vacuum through the dip stick tube. Was not happy with the result here, as I was only able to get about 5 quarts of oil out of the pan, no matte what i did.

    I did m second oil change at 6,000 miles. This time I took the drain plug out (10-18 build) and replaced it with the fumoto valve. Got a full drain this time.

    In both cases, the real pain for me was the oil filter. It is just an awkward location, and my arms dont work that way I guess. But I managed.

    I will now be on a 10k mile schedule.
     
  6. Steve55340

    Steve55340 Member

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    I ran my 2010 5.4 for 5000 miles and installed an Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter System. I mounted the filter block on the cross member under the radiator (I did it without drilling any holes). A filter adapter was then installed in place of the stock oil filter with braided lines running to the filter block. The filter block takes two filters - one is a very large filter that will take out all the particles down to 5 microns. The other filter is also 2-3 times the size of stock filter. Everything fits really nice. (Skid plate needs to be removed during install and changing filters) This system will add almost two additional quarts of oil to the engine, too.

    The way by-pass filters work is that oil flows to the 5 micron filter first. It can't filter the oil as fast as the engine wants it, so it by-passes some oil to the other filter. Eventually all the oil will get filtered to 5 microns during this process. (I have read that particles smaller then 5 microns will not cause engine wear.) I use Amsoil 25,000 mile filters and oil so oil only needs to be changed once every 2 to 2-1/2 years (for me, at least). Before you freak out, I do not drive off-road, keep in heated building in winter, and don't beat on my truck. Oil still looks fairly clean at 25k and I add about 1/2 quart or so of oil during this time.

    Another advantage of the by-pass system is that I can pre-fill the filters with oil before installing them. Get oil pressure almost immediately. Another tip - poke a hole in the bottom of the filters when changing them. This will allow oil to drain out of them and not come out the top of the filter when unscrewing them. Very clean oil changes.

    I just removed the by-pass system from the 2010 and plan to install it in my 2019. Hopefully it will be here March 8! I will change the oil at 2500 and 5000 miles. Install the bypass at 5000.
     
    SVTFordRaptor likes this.
  7. Russell Stevenson

    Russell Stevenson Member

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    I too have used Amsoil Bypass on previous truck. Going to order one for my GEN2. Quick question, I know you have to order the proper fittings for the hoses, which ones do you think we will need for the GEN 2? 90 Deg? 45 Deg?
     
  8. 500mag

    500mag FRF Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    If you can afford a 911 Turbo, why change your own oil in the first place?
     
  9. Eddie G

    Eddie G FRF Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Before I even ask; I will state that I have done my due-diligence on oil and every company seems to claim that they are better than others. So it’s a little hard to find accurate tests. Looking for real hands on experience with certain oils for the gen2. i.e., race, high mileage, high heat climates.

    Interested in oil brands, weights, and filters. I just got the truck so I haven’t had a chance to send my oil sample to blackstone labs like o do with all my other vehicles, but I will post results once this is done in the future.

    Thank you,

    Eddie.
     
  10. Kalex

    Kalex Member

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    2018 here and did my first change at 2,500. Replaced it with full synthetic Mobil 1 5W/30. I live in a very mild climate though. Filter was a Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 that can be purchased on Amazon, etc... About 22 dollars or so. I just ordered and received the aforementioned Fumoto so it will be going on at my next oil change. I would like to have had the Ronin solution, but currently they do not make one for the metal pans/plugs. As far as the filter goes. I was very successful(once I loosened it a little) with putting my hand in a one gallon ziplock bag and removing it that way. I bought my Fumoto off of Ebay for 33 and some change shipped. It came with the little hose extension, a clip, and two dust caps in addition to the valve.
     

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