Official Gen 3 COBB Tuning Thread - Accessport, Intake Bracket, etc

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maxr

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RamseyF

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before spending $100 on the shroud AND not concerned how the inside of my engine bay looks, wondering if anybody has
* removed the shroud and left it off as shown on https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/2739634299/Gen3+Raptor+Issues+Intake+Collapse "Open and Not problematic".

from a visual perspective, it seems like this approach provides the most airflow to the intake. Unfortunately COBB does not provide any dyno info for this approach
I just did the zip tie both sides down. The stock shroud isn't flexing at all when I physical pull up and it made a bigger opening by actually pulling it down with the zip ties. that'll be all I am doing. I only see it when I open the hood. 10 cents is better than $100 any day.
 

maxr

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It seems like the Cobb shroud should have a larger opening vs about the same, small restricted opening as the factory shroud.
 
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COBB Tuning

COBB Tuning

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before spending $100 on the shroud AND not concerned how the inside of my engine bay looks, wondering if anybody has
* removed the shroud and left it off as shown on https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/2739634299/Gen3+Raptor+Issues+Intake+Collapse "Open and Not problematic".

from a visual perspective, it seems like this approach provides the most airflow to the intake. Unfortunately COBB does not provide any dyno info for this approach
The photo labelled "Open and not problematic" is actually showing the factory revised shroud installed. Scroll a few photos down to see what the shroud removed looks like. In our testing, removal of the shroud performs just as well as our revised shroud, with the zip tie method basically just as efficient.
It seems like the Cobb shroud should have a larger opening vs about the same, small restricted opening as the factory shroud.
Pre-filter airbox pressure was identical for the removed shroud and the installed COBB shroud. The real problem is not necessarily the size of the opening, but the deformation of the stock unit under load. With greater airflow, the leading edge of the stock unit will warp and pull in closer to the snorkel inlet, blocking airflow even more. This is the primary difference between the original and revised factory units shown in the link below.
 

maxr

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The photo labelled "Open and not problematic" is actually showing the factory revised shroud installed. Scroll a few photos down to see what the shroud removed looks like. In our testing, removal of the shroud performs just as well as our revised shroud, with the zip tie method basically just as efficient.

Pre-filter airbox pressure was identical for the removed shroud and the installed COBB shroud. The real problem is not necessarily the size of the opening, but the deformation of the stock unit under load. With greater airflow, the leading edge of the stock unit will warp and pull in closer to the snorkel inlet, blocking airflow even more. This is the primary difference between the original and revised factory units shown in the link below.
Thanks for the explanation and being responsive. I'll be ordering some parts
 

danbjeff

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I installed on my 2023 Gen 3 COBB radiator shroud, coolant cover and intake scoop bracket. Trick I did for intake bracket was to hold it in place with a piece of double-sided 3M tape. Holes lined up perfectly, no issues getting bolts in.
 

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swilly

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I installed on my 2023 Gen 3 COBB radiator shroud, coolant cover and intake scoop bracket. Trick I did for intake bracket was to hold it in place with a piece of double-sided 3M tape. Holes lined up perfectly, no issues getting bolts in.
Nice ... any noticeable difference? :) I'm waiting on the CF intake and CF Scoop.
 
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