No sound from speakers

Lacajun25

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So, I ended up draining the battery in my 2013 Raptor because I didn’t drive it for over a month. I jump started the truck with my suv and charged the battery by driving for an hour.

However, now I get no sound from any of my speakers. I’ve turned the radio on and off, switched between sources, am,fm, media drive. Cranked the volume up. Nothing works. The radio looks like it works, I just get no sound. I bought the truck used and know that the stereo system was upgraded, I’ll post a picture of the list.

I know nothing about stereos and have limited electrical experience (I can use a multimeter but that’s about it)

What should I start looking at to troubleshoot it?
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Lacajun25

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c74870a51df432407c06c53edeeafac3.jpg


I also have 2 of these attached to the battery along with other wires that I don’t really know what they power.


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Lacajun25

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4758c602f8a89bdb4b32d68c6facbfd5.jpg


I also get this message now. Is this also because I let the battery die? Is it a setting I can change to clear this message from popping up again?


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Lacajun25

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I should add that I don’t get any noise from the speakers, no buzzing or anything. All the speakers are the same. Everything worked fine before the battery died and I jumpstarted the truck.

I can take it into an audio shop but I’d feel real silly if it was something simple that I should’ve checked before going in.


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The Car Stereo Company

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glass fuses...... im going to say check those first. when those fuses blow, it blows on the end under the copper and is not visible. we avoid using those fuses as much as we can. anl fuses and even maxi fuses are better than those crappy glass fuses. next check the audiocontrol piece. that would be the second place to look. as it sends signal to your amp.
 

Lacajun25

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glass fuses...... im going to say check those first. when those fuses blow, it blows on the end under the copper and is not visible. we avoid using those fuses as much as we can. anl fuses and even maxi fuses are better than those crappy glass fuses. next check the audiocontrol piece. that would be the second place to look. as it sends signal to your amp.
Thanks for the advice, Noah. I ended up taking the fuses out of the protective pill and checking them. They both looked fine but did notice that one seemed a little loose when I pulled it out as well as a ring of scratches or corrosion.
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I ended up undoing all the connections to the battery and then put everything back together and tightened it up.

Bingo! Speakers had sound again. Not sure what it was but I’m guessing that the fuses got a little loose and that’s what caused the issue.

I’ll probably end up changing the fuses out at a later date but they seem to be working fine for now.

Once again, thanks for the suggestions.

- Joe


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Lacajun25

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@The Car Stereo Company would you or someone else recommend a good anl fuse I could replace these glass fuses with? From the Stinger website it looks like the fuse is a 60a fuse. Almost all the anl fuses/fuse holders that I see online are for 100a - 300a fuses which I assume are not recommended for my application. I see mini anl fuse holders with 60a fuses. Would those work, just smaller in size?

Unfortunately, I have very little knowledge with car electronics but I do have a diy spirit and time to experiment/learn. I’m assuming, I could just get the correct fuse holder with the correct fuse and just swap out with what I have currently.

a link for the correct item to go buy and/or YouTube link will help immensely.

thanks!
 

The Car Stereo Company

aka nosbusa
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@The Car Stereo Company would you or someone else recommend a good anl fuse I could replace these glass fuses with? From the Stinger website it looks like the fuse is a 60a fuse. Almost all the anl fuses/fuse holders that I see online are for 100a - 300a fuses which I assume are not recommended for my application. I see mini anl fuse holders with 60a fuses. Would those work, just smaller in size?

Unfortunately, I have very little knowledge with car electronics but I do have a diy spirit and time to experiment/learn. I’m assuming, I could just get the correct fuse holder with the correct fuse and just swap out with what I have currently.

a link for the correct item to go buy and/or YouTube link will help immensely.

thanks!
fuse size doesnt matter much as long as its big enough for the load you are drawing. the fuse at the battery is to protect the line from a short. nothing more. the fuse on the amps protect the amps. so going with a bigger fuse is fine
 

B E N

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That fuse is to protect the wiring. If the fuse is rated higher than the current the wire can take the wire itself will melt down (wire becomes the fuse), putting a lot of heat (IE fire) into whatever is around it. Refer to this chart, don't exceed the fuse rating for your wire gauge and run length.

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