new Rotors and pads R1's vs Stage3

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TXRPTOR37

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Thanks Chris for the help!

Is it okay if I don't bleed the brakes when I compress the piston back? I'm planning to have Ford flush the brakes in a couple weeks. I don't want to mess with the lines or flush the brakes myself.
 

tplee

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Thanks Chris for the help!

Is it okay if I don't bleed the brakes when I compress the piston back? I'm planning to have Ford flush the brakes in a couple weeks. I don't want to mess with the lines or flush the brakes myself.
You don't have to flush the brakes, but if you've been hard on the truck you probably should. Posi-Quiet has a specific bed-in procedure, which is similar to what is described, but I'd go to their website and follow that one.

You definitely should take the guide pins out and relube them. Make sure you use the proper grease though. You don't have to lube any of the shims or the edges of the pads were they slide on the bracket. What grease you put on there won't last more than a few minutes of driving. Having said that I usually do put a little dab on there just to prevent any initial binding when I start the bed in. But like I said not sure it's necessary.

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Chris@FreedomMotorsports

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Actually, brake fluid breaks down faster than any other fluid in the vehicle besides the power steering fluid. Mainly because it absorbs moisture from condensation in the braking system that is caused by the constant heat cycling. Any time that you replace the rotors and pads, you should replace the fluid as well. IF you don't want to bleed the system during installation of the pads and rotors, you do not absolutely have to, that is true. But the brake fluid is the life's blood of the braking system and as often happens, if you put it off, you can indeed wind up with issues down the road. If you don't do it yourself, make sure to get it done sooner rather than later.
 

ninjazed

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Old ass thread here but I changed my brake pads and rotors last month. Lots of good info has already been posted on this subject but after about a month of use I thought that a report of my personal experience would be in order. Lots of good parts are available out there but I opted for the R1 Concepts Carbon Geomet series with their matched Optimum OEp series pads. All sorts of slotted and drilled options are available but I stuck with blanks for no other reason than the pretty ones aren't really that visible anyhow.

My truck had about 52K miles at the change and the stock pads weren't complete toast upon removal but they weren't in great shape either. I also installed the Russell speed bleeders as it seemed the way to go for a full system fluid change. I'm glad I put them on and they are highly recommended but my fluid was in good condition so I only bled a portion of the old fluid out.

No great detail is needed on the process as many others have provided a ton of useful info on a job that I am proud to say I did impeccably by myself and saved a ton of money over what a shop charges. I guarantee they probably wouldn't have employed the insane attention to detail like I did either. I even tourqed the bleed valves! So in summation, my truck brakes better than I ever remember it braking, pedal is smooth and there are no squeaks or other noises going on. I'm talking seriously good braking ability with no grab and minimal pedal pressure required for most stops. I got the gear straight from R1 Concepts in California at a great price. Phone service was courteous and shipping was fast. Thanks to them for a great product and thanks to all forum members who always help to make my Raptor experience fun and affordable.
 
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