Sounds like a job for @FordTechOne...
New member with transmission issues
- Thread starter kennymog
- Start date
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kennymog
Member
Thank you, yeah after I stripped the driveline and suspension I wire wheeled the crusty frame and other crusty spots, followed by degrease and acid wash. Then I hit it with 2 coats of Rust Bullet Primer and 2 coat Rust Bullet Top Coat. I applied the paint with a brush and I was very happy with the results.
Wanted to give it that extra protection we get from the rough winters up here (salt sucks a**)
Wanted to give it that extra protection we get from the rough winters up here (salt sucks a**)
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Well, when you start driving it in the fall winter again, spray it with fluid film, I've done that with mine for 11 years and there's no rust, except for the deaver springs and rear end housing.
KENNEDY Ridley
Active Member
My local dealer change my bulk head because it was leaking about 8 months ago. No problem took it in about 2 months ago to let them change my fluids in everything besides transmission. It had been done when bulk head was changed. Dove it home put it in the garage everything was fine, next day headed to work check engine light on and nothing but 5th gear. Got to work which is like 7 miles from home shut it off. Decided to take it to the Ford place figured it couldn't be much just something simple. A week later I went to the dealer and said okay I want the truth what is wrong, they said we think you need a new transmission! Wow never one issue what so ever no slipping clunking nothing!
KENNEDY Ridley
Active Member
I thought they had tried to reprogram my truck and messed up my tune. When it was all said and done got a new reman Ford transmission for $100 deductible! Tried to stay calm and not push it to much because of the supercharger. Transmission seems fine now that Ford premium coverage is the stuff!!
FordTechOne
FRF Addict
The 6R80 in earlier models (including 2010) used a mechatronics assembly, which includes a molded leadframe and TCM (5.4 only). The 6.2 mechatronics does not include a TCM, and is instead controlled directly by the PCM. Only Shift Solenoid E (SSE) is serviceable on these units; any other fault requires replacement of the assembly. Was the issue originally diagnosed as a mechatronics issue? It's strange that the PCM would suddenly be "bad" after the installation of the new mechatronics. If the new mechatronics cannot be programmed to the PCM, I would suspect that the incorrect part number may have been obtained. The dealer can submit a part number validation request to Ford to verify that the correct part number was installed. I'd highly recommend that they do that before going any further.
Quick question from experience- did you double / triple check the fitment and correct operation of your self-replaced parts? If wrong valve body, leads, solenoids, etc. or faulty "new" part installed maybe the correct PCM is not communicating due to wrong or faulty part?
Old axiom- 'never assume a new part is good'!!! Been burned numerous times.
Sorry for your troubles.
My 2 cents
Old axiom- 'never assume a new part is good'!!! Been burned numerous times.
Sorry for your troubles.
My 2 cents
CoronaRaptor
FRF Addict
Yup, been there before!
kennymog
Member
Thanks for the reply @FordTechOne
I had this all screwed up, I always thought the molded lead frame or lead frame was all part of the TCM ( But I see now that only applies to the 5.4).
Ford Work Shop Manual Classifies
4.6/5.4L with Transmission Control Module (TCM) " Lead frame"
6.2L just "Molded Lead Frame" and PCM
I always assumed people just cut out the "molded part" so its easier to type kinda thing, and when I originally browsed through the workshop manual I always thought they were the same.
Back when I was researching the symptoms I was having on the internet, I rolled the dice on the valve body ( But I bet now those were issues with the TCM on the 5.4, F**k Me). With 195k miles on the clock I decided to go with the whole assembly.
I did save the original box the new valve body came in and the old valve body as well (it was some of the best packaging I've ever seen, looked like something NASA would store on their spaceship lol).
I'll take a couple pictures of the part# on the box when I get to the garage tonight.
Thanks again
kennymog
Member
I definitely know what you mean. I checked a bunch of times before installing and it all seemed good. I really hope it was the right valve body
