New Gen 3 Lower Bumper 6"-12" Light Bar kits launching for Preorder Soon (Check them out...)

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

Well, we finished the design work for the lower mounts for a center light bar.

These will be manufactured and ready to ship in approx 4 weeks.

You can choose from a 6" Rigid to a 10" Rigid, in popular SR models like the Radiance +, or Pro Series. Baja 10", or even a 12" Diode Dynamics.

Be sure to check SPVparts.com in our Raptor Light Kit Section soon to preorder yours. That way, as soon as they arrive, they will ship right out to you! You won't need to delay in receiving them if a backlog occurs.

Gen 3 Ford Raptor Light Kits (2021-2024)

Give your vehicle an SPV upgrade with a Ford Raptor Fog Light Kit! We carry Rigid Raptor lights, Baja Designs Raptor lights, & other truck light kits just for you

specialtyperformanceparts.com

Here are some example photos...

John
SPVparts.com

 

[koyojo]

How does the diode dynamics 12in compare to a pair ss3 sport driving? I am a huge fan of their lights.

How long of a light bar do you think would fit onto the top of the bumper? Preferably diode dynamics, but not sure if a curved light bar would be better.

Also, is it possible to make a set of back up lights using diode dynamics?

 

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

How does the diode dynamics 12in compare to a pair ss3 sport driving? I am a huge fan of their lights.

How long of a light bar do you think would fit onto the top of the bumper? Preferably diode dynamics, but not sure if a curved light bar would be better.

Also, is it possible to make a set of back up lights using diode dynamics?

So I will touch on all this.

On the upper, I looked at the Baja S8 which there was a kit for in the previous Gen. it was the slimmest out of all the Rigid, Baja and Diode lights. Unfortunately, they moved the active shutters FORWARD and really cut down on space between the shutters and the grille. There was never ample space, but now there is less. So unfortunately, that 30” and no other 30” Will fit.

The next most slim light bar is one we created a kit for on the last Gen Raptor. The 20” Rigid SRL with amber backlight. It is both slim with its fins and it is slightly curved. I really think we can get that one in there again. I don’t know that some or all of our existing brackets will fit or not, so we may need new brackets. We will start working on that light bar very soon. Right at this minute, we are finishing our updated A-Pillar mounts and Fog Mounts.

The antenna moved in, to the cowl. So we are moving the A-pillar mount spot OUT over the fender where the Antenna used to be and we are putting together a HD version that will hold those larger 6” lights.

On the rear lights, yes. We have designed specific brackets for the Diode Dynamics Rear lights. We should have those in soon. The brackets in the rear both work on Gen 3 and Gen 2. So those are the only ones that cross over. The general harnesses are also the same, but the optional tail light adapters are different.
We will have a page loaded with the Gen 3 version with the different adapters loaded soon. Feel free to reach.

I will dig up those photos and load them on here.

Circling back, the 12” light bar is larger and has more LED’s than a pair of SS3’s.

John

 

[koyojo]

I was thinking something like this. (hopefully a little more discrete)

Sounds like Ford is making you work for it.

 

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

View attachment 321148I was thinking something like this. (hopefully a little more discrete)

Sounds like Ford is making you work for it.

Do you mean an in front of bumper light bar?
Yes, we will work on no drill mounts for that as well after we finish those other kits.
We have one similar for the Gen 2 that requires no modification to
The truck…

 

[koyojo]

Alright I got another question. What about a harness that allows the both set of rigid fogs to be run from fog light switch rather than aux1. Would be nice to free aux1 since highest output.

 

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

Yes. That is completely doable.
The only thing to keep in mind is, legally, Ford must make factory fog lights turn OFF when the bright's are on. So keep in mind that using the switch, it will turn off the fogs when your bright's go on...
That being said, if you follow us and some of the things we offer and specialize in, such as our plug N play harness system with weatherproof connectors. Here are some other things I have found, that we will have a remedy for.

The Aux 1 switch wire is NOT located with the rest of the bundle. Only 5 wires are now up there. I dug through all the wires in that entire ream of probably 300 wires where they come out. It appears they didn't even run that wire through the Aux wire area at all. So without pulling the entire factory harness, or taking apart the fuse panel where it connects under the hood... the only place to access that Aux 1 wire are the 2 connectors located where the stock fogs are. That is also where the connectors for the stock fog switch wire is. So we want to keep it simple. We need to make it easy for people to connect their wiring and run their lights. We also want access to all those connections in the same location with the other 5 Aux wires.

So, we are going to introduce a new slim plug n play access harness that will connect and combine to the 4 plugs (2 on each side) where the fogs were, and run to the same spot the other switch wires are, right behind the battery by the headlight. It will be very slim and very simple. Then you will have 6 switch wires and a factory fog wire right there to connect to any of our harnesses or lights. If you want to put A-pillars on the fog switch, or whatever? You can. Just keeping in mind max amp draw. If exceeded, you just plug in our plug n play relay up to 30 amps. That's the other nice thing about all the wires being right there.

John

 

[melvimbe]

Alright I got another question. What about a harness that allows the both set of rigid fogs to be run from fog light switch rather than aux1. Would be nice to free aux1 since highest output.

That's an interesting thought. Do those lights have a connector near the light itself, or are they just wired to the switches directly? If they have connectors near by, a pair of two to one connectors like this is all you need. I have no idea whether they are weather pack connectors or, whether the amps below what the wiring can handle.

If there isn't any existing connectors, then you would have to cut the wiring for all 4 lights and put connectors on them. Alternatively, you could cut the wire near aux 1, and a connector and length of wire to bring to the driver's side near wear the fog light wire enters the cab, and then do a 2 to 1 connector.

If you want to free up aux 1, it might be easier just to move to another aux switch, or combine it to whatever light you eventually put on aux 1.

 

[melvimbe]

So, we are going to introduce a new slim plug n play access harness that will connect and combine to the 4 plugs (2 on each side) where the fogs were, and run to the same spot the other switch wires are, right behind the battery by the headlight. It will be very slim and very simple. Then you will have 6 switch wires and a factory fog wire right there to connect to any of our harnesses or lights. If you want to put A-pillars on the fog switch, or whatever? You can. Just keeping in mind max amp draw. If exceeded, you just plug in our plug n play relay up to 30 amps. That's the other nice thing about all the wires being right there.

John

I spoke too soon. This sounds like it would work very well. Do you know if the fog switch, fog wiring, an aux 1 wiring are the same if you didn't get the stock rigid lights?

 

[Specialtyperformanceparts]

That's an interesting thought. Do those lights have a connector near the light itself, or are they just wired to the switches directly? If they have connectors near by, a pair of two to one connectors like this is all you need. I have no idea whether they are weather pack connectors or, whether the amps below what the wiring can handle.

If there isn't any existing connectors, then you would have to cut the wiring for all 4 lights and put connectors on them. Alternatively, you could cut the wire near aux 1, and a connector and length of wire to bring to the driver's side near wear the fog light wire enters the cab, and then do a 2 to 1 connector.

If you want to free up aux 1, it might be easier just to move to another aux switch, or combine it to whatever light you eventually put on aux 1.

That’s the point I was making. There is no Aux 1 wire anymore. At all. It’s gone. It’s absorbed into the vehicles entire harness. You can’t access it. The only easy place to access it is right there at the bumper holes.
That’s why to bring things back to square 1 and have your Aux wires all together again, we are making that harness to plug into them and do so for both the Aux 1 connection and the Fog switch connection.

You never want to cut the plugs off unless absolutely needed. Yes, you can plug in an adapter down there to tap off of and we probably will makes some of those. But for not much more cost than that, we can off that access harness that brings both connections to the other switch wires.
This way, no matter what you want to connect, how many amps, if you need a relay or don’t… you have full access to those connections in one place.

John