New Gen 2 Owner - Day 1 problems...[resolved, hopefully]

Ronnieray691

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Okay so I’m new here to raptors but not to tuned vehicles. The fact that the previous owner gave you a list of mods and said it was tuner ready, says a lot. He removed the tune that he’d done on it and returned it to factory settings as he thought he should so as to not void warranties so it would trade better selling it with a manufacture warranty. This means it needs a tune. Air intake and pipes runs ****** without a tune. You’ve opened the intake and outthrust by exponential amounts and you have the old fuel mixture going through. It’s literally starving for fuel. Get a tune on it. Change the plugs check the timing and I’m sure it will run like a champ
 

smurfslayer

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Okay so I’m new here to raptors but not to tuned vehicles. The fact that the previous owner gave you a list of mods and said it was tuner ready, says a lot. He removed the tune that he’d done on it and returned it to factory settings as he thought he should so as to not void warranties so it would trade better selling it with a manufacture warranty. This means it needs a tune. Air intake and pipes runs ****** without a tune. You’ve opened the intake and outthrust by exponential amounts and you have the old fuel mixture going through. It’s literally starving for fuel. Get a tune on it. Change the plugs check the timing and I’m sure it will run like a champ

The intake isn’t the choke point on the Raptors, it’s actually pretty efficient as stock intakes go. Ditto the exhaust. Unless you swap downpipes, nobody I’m aware of has posted a dyno chart showing hp or tq gains with any exhaust mod on the Gen 2 Raptor. Even the turbo outlet flange, but there is a regular 3.5TT dyno chart showing an increase.

If there were any gains to be had with these items --without-- a tune, there would be plenty of proof floating around.

Also, if the ECU shows it was tuned, even before the current owner had it, there’s no coverage from Ford factory or the ESP if they discover it - and they will for any kind of powertrain failure. That said, you don’t see a bunch of horror stories of broken hard parts or what not from tuned Raptors. Most of the supporting vendor tuners value their customers and reputation, so they invest effort and care into providing tunes that will survive and not harm the truck.
 
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EricEst1978

EricEst1978

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A bad coil will do exactly what you are experiencing as well. Need the codes it threw.
I dropped it off at the shop this morning. They were busy but said they'd have a look at if before the end of the day, so I'm waiting for the codes/diagnosis now. I'll definitely report back here once they give me a call.

As for all the other (new) responses, I really appreciate it. Once I have the truck back, depending on which way things go from here, I'll reach out to you @GooseTuned and try to get things sorted. Sincerely hoping to get positive news, and most importantly get the truck running right ASAP. Again... thanks so much to everyone for responding. I'm learning a ton.

Cheers!
 

Remi_

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Okay so I’m new here to raptors but not to tuned vehicles. The fact that the previous owner gave you a list of mods and said it was tuner ready, says a lot. He removed the tune that he’d done on it and returned it to factory settings as he thought he should so as to not void warranties so it would trade better selling it with a manufacture warranty. This means it needs a tune. Air intake and pipes runs ****** without a tune. You’ve opened the intake and outthrust by exponential amounts and you have the old fuel mixture going through. It’s literally starving for fuel. Get a tune on it. Change the plugs check the timing and I’m sure it will run like a champ
I agree with this 100%
Definitely sounds like a tune issue. Talk to a reputable tuner, get an AccessPort and I feel pretty confident your problems should be solved. Good luck!
 

HighwaySentinel

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I had similar symptoms on a untuned 2028 and it was the wiring harness to the fuel injection system. Codes will determine what it is
Oh Mountain Man...please tell me what happens in the future. Will they still be making the R in 2028?

I kid....I assume you meant 2018, but couldn't pass it up.
 

Ellison3

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Someone will come along to correct me, but I believe some intakes and intercoolers require a tune. I would return it to stock as much as possible, or ask the dealer to at least provide the parts. That is if you like the truck otherwise.
That is correct… as I installed a Full Race Freak-O-Beast Intercooler, Full Race Oil Catch Can, and TurboSmart BOV on my truck. Oh yeah, it was previously tuned before that install. However, when the above items replaced the OEM equipment I did not have those issues mentioned. It ran ok… never really got on it to be honest. Was waiting to get re-tuned.

What does sound familiar to me in your story is the sputtering under heavy acceleration. Had a similar situation on the highway while trying to pass. Pressed the accelerometer from approximately 65mph set on the cruise control. Well it was at the point I would get a flashing “Check Engine” light, surging/ bucking, and no “immediate” pedal response.

Thinking quickly as I am in the middle lane of the highway with no escape route I put the truck in neutral, turn key to “OFF”, then to “Start”, shift back to drive. All good. Drive like normal. Until the next time I hit the accelerator WOT again. Time to research… found a thread that talked about saturated MAP sensors. Pulled mine… it was covered in all that oil, water, and fuel trash that comes through PCV/ exhaust system, and recycled to the intake. This trash coats that sensor, and confuses. Once it was cleaned with some CRC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner it was re-installed… worked great!!! No more hesitation issues. Until that sensor got kicked up again. Did more research… ran across the intercooler; tapping a small hole for drainage (OEM intercooler, not my Full Race). A bunch of crap leaked out of it. That’s when I decided to do the oil catch can. It worked great. No more issues after it was installed. Then I did the Freak-O-Beast… it came with the TurboSmart BOV. At that point it made the oil catch can unnecessary. Since the BOV install I’ve not had any buildup in the catch can. Interesting… . Should’ve did this mod first, huh?

Anyway… check that sensor to see if it’s dirty. Clean it. Drive it. As far as those mods with no tune installed you SHOULD be able to drive it normally without issues. I’ve got similar mods you have, and I was fine until I got the truck re-tuned. Under normal acceleration (getting up to highway speed) it was fine. Not to mention I live in AZ, and drove to Colorado (Where I originally got it tuned; was working at Buckley AFB) to get the truck re-tuned in my way to my next work location (Government contractor). So, it SHOULD drive okay unless something else is going on. I’d check that sensor. Oh, check all wiring harnesses in the areas of the mods to verify they are connected. Something might’ve been left disconnected/ partially connected. Good Luck!!!
 

GCATX

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That is correct… as I installed a Full Race Freak-O-Beast Intercooler, Full Race Oil Catch Can, and TurboSmart BOV on my truck. Oh yeah, it was previously tuned before that install. However, when the above items replaced the OEM equipment I did not have those issues mentioned. It ran ok… never really got on it to be honest. Was waiting to get re-tuned.

What does sound familiar to me in your story is the sputtering under heavy acceleration. Had a similar situation on the highway while trying to pass. Pressed the accelerometer from approximately 65mph set on the cruise control. Well it was at the point I would get a flashing “Check Engine” light, surging/ bucking, and no “immediate” pedal response.

Thinking quickly as I am in the middle lane of the highway with no escape route I put the truck in neutral, turn key to “OFF”, then to “Start”, shift back to drive. All good. Drive like normal. Until the next time I hit the accelerator WOT again. Time to research… found a thread that talked about saturated MAP sensors. Pulled mine… it was covered in all that oil, water, and fuel trash that comes through PCV/ exhaust system, and recycled to the intake. This trash coats that sensor, and confuses. Once it was cleaned with some CRC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner it was re-installed… worked great!!! No more hesitation issues. Until that sensor got kicked up again. Did more research… ran across the intercooler; tapping a small hole for drainage (OEM intercooler, not my Full Race). A bunch of crap leaked out of it. That’s when I decided to do the oil catch can. It worked great. No more issues after it was installed. Then I did the Freak-O-Beast… it came with the TurboSmart BOV. At that point it made the oil catch can unnecessary. Since the BOV install I’ve not had any buildup in the catch can. Interesting… . Should’ve did this mod first, huh?

Anyway… check that sensor to see if it’s dirty. Clean it. Drive it. As far as those mods with no tune installed you SHOULD be able to drive it normally without issues. I’ve got similar mods you have, and I was fine until I got the truck re-tuned. Under normal acceleration (getting up to highway speed) it was fine. Not to mention I live in AZ, and drove to Colorado (Where I originally got it tuned; was working at Buckley AFB) to get the truck re-tuned in my way to my next work location (Government contractor). So, it SHOULD drive okay unless something else is going on. I’d check that sensor. Oh, check all wiring harnesses in the areas of the mods to verify they are connected. Something might’ve been left disconnected/ partially connected. Good Luck!!!

A quick google search "gen 2 raptor check engine light after cold air intake" had a bunch of hits.

I also remember when people were taking the swirl rings out of the intake pipes or whatever and were getting CEL's.

My feeble mind thinks that when you take away most of the restrictions on the intake and exhaust, the computer is gonna go crazy trying to keep the proper air/fuel ratio, or some sensors will simply read out of range.
 

COBB Tuning

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Some good information in this thread already, but also a few things to clarify.

With the modifications installed, the truck should have no problem running on the stock tune. On certain vehicles, tuning can be required after installing simple modifications like an intake - these are 99.9% of the time going to be vehicles that use mass airflow (MAF) sensors (ex: Subaru EJ and FA platforms, R35 GTR). The Raptor does not use a MAF sensor to calculate airmass entering the engine, and instead uses a speed-density method that uses manifold pressure (MAP) and air temperature data (among of a few other variables) to calculate airmass at any given operating condition. Speed density types of airflow measurement systems are generally unaffected by intake changes. The only DTC that you may see when installing certain intakes on Raptors is P04DB which is a crankcase pressure fault code. The PCV system has a pressure sensor used to detect when hoses may be disconnected or leaking to meet emissions standards. Depending on design of the intake, the crankcase pressure sensor may read outside of its acceptable pressure ranges and throw this DTC even when the PCV hoses are connected. Even if this DTC was present because of the intake installed to your truck, it will not be the cause of the misfire.

For more information on why tuning for a MAF vehicle is important and some of the differences between MAF vs. MAP based airflow measurement systems, check out these links:



As FordTechOne mentioned, a flashing check engine light will indicate a misfire. By far the most frequent cause of misfiring on these engines is going to be spark plug wear and tear. Even though the previous owner claimed that plugs were replaced recently, improper gapping or improper gap adjustment techniques (and related damage to plug) could explain the misfire. Replacing them with new set of MotorCraft or Ford Peformance plugs is a cheap and easy test (this is not a spark plug swap on an old Ford 4.6/5.4 Triton where they break off in the head half the time, ask me how I know...)

Whether you plan to tune or not, COBB OTS maps are designed to operate on stock plugs with stock gap, so the MotorCraft plugs are fine to use.

Still, it is always important to scan for any engine codes that are thrown when either the check engine light or wrench light turn on - there could be other codes that are contributing to the misfire condition like a stuck wastegate actuator, overboost condition, malfunctioning variable cams, or fuel system malfunctions. Any scan tool will work, you can get a cheap one off of Amazon for a few bucks, drive over to the local Autozone/O'Reillys/etc and borrow one for free, or use an Accessport!

Let us know if you have any questions and what you/your dealer find with the truck. Best of luck with the new purchase.

[email protected]
 
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