GEN 2 Need stereo in truck

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dhmcfadin

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Door panels taped off and isolated from the doors. Thanks for the tips. Doors sound much better. Pounding pretty good.

This exposed a host of other noises in the truck. Rear doors dash etc. one thing at a time. I’m pretty happy with it. Really don’t need a sub. But I really do need a sub or two.

Some updates:
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Keep twisting them down until snug.
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Yeah, you’ve gotta do it all or you will forever be chasing rattles. I recommend laying CCF down on the b and c pillars. Vibration dampener and CCF on the floor. While you have the b and c pillars out, pull the headliner down on the front and rear. The front will give you access to the overhead console to add some CCF there, the rear will give you access to a large flat portion of the roof behind the sun roof to add vibration dampening. You can also check for 3rd brake light leaks while you are in there. Lastly, any panel that has clips and is plastic to plastic can be a source of noise. All the center console trim, a/c vents, etc can easily be popped off and a small layer of Tessa tape will solve all you problem, just like the door panel switches.
 
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2F150

2F150

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IMG_1684.jpg

Noticed the door wasn’t closing. Handle starting binding against deadener. Don’t build up too much around silver ferrules.

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smurfslayer

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I had the same issue / see the “under 500” stereo upgrade thread. it worked fine when I reassembled but not when I had the first door latch recall done. There’s some slop on the door panel positioning but yes, you need to be careful about door function if you use dynamat or similar sound insulation.
 
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2F150

2F150

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I had the same issue / see the “under 500” stereo upgrade thread. it worked fine when I reassembled but not when I had the first door latch recall done. There’s some slop on the door panel positioning but yes, you need to be careful about door function if you use dynamat or similar sound insulation.
I will have a look at under 500. Did not know this was the area involved with the recall. Haven’t had the recall done myself.


Goes to show the more you plan and read the less you have to remove your door panels ;)

My apologies for the lame update.


I am waiting on 2 more amps. This has delayed the schedule.

Then on to build an amp rack. I’m trying to get 4 amps processor and zen behind the seats. I’ll stack two of the large amps. Also May cut the c pillar plastic to get access to the corners to stuff wiring and fusing and zen in there.

Looks like amp rack will be metal. I’ll be using a HF wire welder wish me luck.

Amps are a little over 1.5” thick. I measure 5 and 6” clearance between back wall and seat back. Also started notching the seat brackets for clearance. May trim the bolts down.

How does it sound so far? Excellent.
Midrange is open, midbass can do what I need it to. It can resolve the details on the chesky cd. Trus have gobs of power. Alpine processor easy peezy. I thought the alpine was missing a lot of features like input output gain adjustment, but really don’t miss them. Coming from Zapco DSP6.






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2F150

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IMG_1696.jpg

Got some new mesa RCAs and mounted amps. The other equipment is taking too long so I put these on. Found small mono amp to run with factory sub temporarily.


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2F150

2F150

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Hooked up the factory sub last night for a listen on the test bench. POS.

My planned sub will come but I want something to listen to while I wait. I’ll have to build an enclosure.

I’ll grab a JL 10 T1 or similar with a prefab box.

Needs to have flat response in sealed enclosure. I have 1k W @ 1 ohm, approx 250 @ 4 ohms.

Any suggestions?


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2F150

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Amp and sub arrived after getting stuck in customs.

Needed to stack amps. I used 1/4” Al and nutserts to attach to body.

Sub in temporary MDF box under seat.

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2F150

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I like the stacking. How much clearance between them and then how much to the rear seat?


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1/2” between amps, have not put seat back in. I measured 5” at the short point, should have 1/2” or something. I’m sure some big guy could hit the amps but I’ve never had anyone in back. It’s a stereo hauler.


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