My Install Experience

MDJAK

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Damn, that is a lot of work. Great job. Wish I had the talent and know how to do that. Even if I did, I’d pay an installer. My Gen3 is a few weeks old and I noticed buzzing coming from speaker over my head, whether in stereo or surround. A bit annoying. Zero comes from the headrest speakers. Unleashed my a s s.

As an aside, I have had audiophile equipment in my homes for over 40 years and appreciate great sound. Although I’ve now owned 8 Porsches and multiple other vehicles, I’ve never had an upgraded sound system in any and the factory systems plain s u c k. The only one I’ve heard that is quality is the Meridian in the Range Rovers. Too bad the rest of the vehicle ain’t so hot. Lol.
 

greatone99

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I bought this from Hush Audio.

Morel Maximo Ultra 602 (front speakers)
Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Coax (rear speakers)
NavTV Zen unit
Pac Audio APH-FD02 (almost completely useless)
Audiocontrol lc-4.800
(2) Rockford Fosgate PS-8 enclosure subwoofer w/amplifier (fits behind the rear seats)
4/0 gauge Amp wiring kit
Damplifier Pro - Sound deadening for Rear Was and Doors
Gold Plated Fused Power and Ground Distribution Blocks with Fuses

What Hush did not include or Forgot completely.
Black PVC Foam Board for Amp/Crossovers/NavTV and Fuse Blocks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQL4BBT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Raptors with B&O Unleashed have the REAR Door speakers powered by the Front AMP (sits behind Screen) completely accessible from under the Center Speaker/Storage.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...l-vehicles-compatible-with-2021-ford-vehicles

RCA Splitters for subs
Additional Wiring from Fuse Blocks to each device.

Process:
I started by doing installing all the speakers in the doors and doing sound deadening. Process was pretty simple, just time consuming. Maybe 4-6 hrs.

I then started to layout how I would mount everything. When I purchased form Hush, he told me it would all fit behind the rear seat, neglecting to mention I’d have to sacrifice the Factory Jack. At this point I was too far in. I bought a bottle jack and store in my swing case in the bed. (One sub is where jack is and the other is next to that almost in center of truck. I did NOT WANT a sub enclosure under rear seats. I have seats up 99% of the time use this space allot and did not want a box under seats. I wanted everything out of sight. Yes I am sacrificing bass, and I am aware but this was a trade off I had to accept.

Amp Board / Sub Board - This part Hush advised me to not spend money on a pre-fab Amp Board. He said take come card board make a pattern etc etc etc….this was so time consuming for me, especially someone who does not do this kind of stuff everyday. Ya it was simple, but allot of guesstimating and VERY VERY time consuming and always wondering could I do it better. I wanted it to look like the one from Sounds Good Stereo, at least in my mind that was what I was wanting. Well for one PVC boards are not cheap and readily available. I was lucky I had a vendor who gave me a 24x36 PVC for free that I used this for the Subs. The Amp board I used this and highly recommend (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQL4BBT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20) - Picture shows White, but it is black. I did not have a router, but used my dad’s and a 1/4” round over bit to at least make it look proper. To secure the Amp and Sub boards, I used Nutcerts and M5 screws to secure into back of truck. (For the record after install was complete, I re-did the boards, but still do not like it).

Wiring
I ran ground and power from driver side rear of truck, down driver side under molding, come up by hood release and into the firewall. I squeezed the 2 wires into existing rubber grommet (PAIN IN THE REAR). Got everything to the battery, including a fused disconnect.

I unhooked all factory speakers. I installed tweeters into A-Pillars. I used Factory tweeter holder/mount and just had to shave it down a bit with a belt sander and the Morels fit perfectly. I ran tweeter wire for each side down the side of the truck under moldings. All door speakers use existing wiring and adaptors.

Now for the worst part of the whole thing. Hush sold me on complete Plug in play. FAR FROM THAT. Once I got everything hooked up I was NOT getting any sound except the front driver door speaker. The Pac-Audio APH-FD02 is NOT FOR THE B&O Unleashed. It says it is only for the 2019-2020 F150. I mentioned this several times to Hush, he assured me it was correct. After about 4 hrs of troubleshooting, Noah here from the Car Stereo Company spent a good 3 hrs at night helping me trouble shoot (at some point he sent me a wiring diagram that showed rear speakers are in the front). We could not figure it out. This was on a Saturday night. Thank you!!!!

On Monday am, I called and troubleshooted with NavTv and we figured out the Pac Harness pin locations were incorrect. SO DO NOT USE THE PIN LOCATIONS FOR THE PAC HARNESS IF YOU HAVE THE UNLEASHED. I even got a call back from PAC and they flat out said harness will not match wiring location for speaker. Also had to modify the plug to fit (this is known and there are videos from 5 Star Stereo that tells you this). Bob at NAVTV was basically frustrated as I was. He then was going to have me bring to one of their locations that are vendors of their Products and troubleshoot. We also noticed that I was not getting any sound from a few of the RCA outputs on the NavTV. After a bunch of back and forth Bob called me and said call Don at Sounds Good Stereo. He knows what is going on and has a harness they can send you. I called them and Don basically said he has no idea why, but Ford decided to run the REAR doors from the AMP behind the stereo. He sold me a harness that plugs into back of the from AMP and runs to back of truck where I can hook to my amp. They have several versions, like to also include the factory tweeter wire as well, but I had done all that already so they made a custom harness. When I got the harness I started to take the whole stereo apart and noticed the screen isn’t even attached to the guts of the radio. On a late week day night, I called Don and one of the techs helped me out. You do not have to pull radio. You can actually pull the amp straight out the top of the dash under the center speaker location and add harness. Once that was done, simply ran those wires to back of truck down to behind glove box and down passenger side of truck). As noted before Bob noticed I was not getting sound from a few of the RCA’s on the NavTV. They sent me a new one and finally, after about 2 weeks of BS, I had sound.

I reached out to Hush to help me tune it, he gave me some advice, but not as helpful as I would have liked. I just spent a shit load of money and not sure it is even tuned right. I mean, I am no expert, but a little more help would have been appreciated. I understand basic stuff, but for someone who does not do this allot, your looking at all these options on the Amp and Subs it was over whelming. I just wanted someone to hold my hand. If I was doing this for a living, I’d spend 10+ hours on YouTube and figure it out. But at this point, I was stressed and just wanted help.

If I had to do all over:
Buy at minimum the Amp Board from Sounds Good and mount everything. But still would be hard if I am not sure of clearances etc.

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...ord-f-series-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate

I am guessing at a minimum I spent a good 30+ hours for this install. At least 6 hours for installing the Sound Deadening and maybe 4 hours to run wiring. Not sure about you, but my time is somewhat valuable and there is a point that it makes sense to just have it done for you, just short of paying someone to completely install (hands off) the system. With what I know now, I’d spend at least $1500-$2000 to have a Amp Board pre-wired and ready to go, which Sounds Good offers. Can I value my time over $2000 and not have any stress up to that point? Ya I can, I mean I have a Raptor for gods sake LOL. And the fact that Sounds Good does SO MANY Raptors and F150, it’s ridiculous. They know what can go where and what will not fit etc.

Also Hush is an installer, so allot of the little things you need, an installer has probably most of it. I tried to pre-buy allot of what I thought I would need, but it would make you sick if you saw my Amazon Order history it had screws, Ferrel Crimpers, NutCerts, NutCert Tool, Different sizes of ABS/PVC boards, Cloth Tape, more Zip Ties, Butyl Rubber Sealant, etc. Thank god I have a separate Amazon account from the wife.

My experience with Hush over all was good. Pricing was very good. Install help, so/so. In his defense he was moving from California to Texas. However at times I was hoping for more help in the tuning. Allot of what I had to do was pretty simple, but sometimes you need that extra help, which he gave at times, just not enough. If I he had sold me the correct harnesses it would have been much smoother. I still do not know if I have it tuned correctly. Might suck it up and take it to a local installer and have them help me.

Shockingly Sounds Good saved me with that harness. I was at a breaking point and stress the F&^K out. Come this far, spent what I considered a good chunk of cash and felt defeated, stressed and just not happy.

Now that it is done, IT IS WAY BETTER THAN THE B&O. I hope this helps any of you, for me I wish I had this before I started my journey, would have been allot easier and less stress.
Although I have a gen 2 , it’s a lot of work , I did mine , and I agree I have an Amazon order list a mile long .
 

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Grayson

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Although I have a gen 2 , it’s a lot of work , I did mine , and I agree I have an Amazon order list a mile long .

That blank space screams for a small 4 channel to power those KX2's:Big Laugh:...You did an excellent job, looks better than some pro installs I've seen.
 

tfreshour47

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I bought this from Hush Audio.

Morel Maximo Ultra 602 (front speakers)
Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Coax (rear speakers)
NavTV Zen unit
Pac Audio APH-FD02 (almost completely useless)
Audiocontrol lc-4.800
(2) Rockford Fosgate PS-8 enclosure subwoofer w/amplifier (fits behind the rear seats)
4/0 gauge Amp wiring kit
Damplifier Pro - Sound deadening for Rear Was and Doors
Gold Plated Fused Power and Ground Distribution Blocks with Fuses

What Hush did not include or Forgot completely.
Black PVC Foam Board for Amp/Crossovers/NavTV and Fuse Blocks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQL4BBT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Raptors with B&O Unleashed have the REAR Door speakers powered by the Front AMP (sits behind Screen) completely accessible from under the Center Speaker/Storage.
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...l-vehicles-compatible-with-2021-ford-vehicles

RCA Splitters for subs
Additional Wiring from Fuse Blocks to each device.

Process:
I started by doing installing all the speakers in the doors and doing sound deadening. Process was pretty simple, just time consuming. Maybe 4-6 hrs.

I then started to layout how I would mount everything. When I purchased form Hush, he told me it would all fit behind the rear seat, neglecting to mention I’d have to sacrifice the Factory Jack. At this point I was too far in. I bought a bottle jack and store in my swing case in the bed. (One sub is where jack is and the other is next to that almost in center of truck. I did NOT WANT a sub enclosure under rear seats. I have seats up 99% of the time use this space allot and did not want a box under seats. I wanted everything out of sight. Yes I am sacrificing bass, and I am aware but this was a trade off I had to accept.

Amp Board / Sub Board - This part Hush advised me to not spend money on a pre-fab Amp Board. He said take come card board make a pattern etc etc etc….this was so time consuming for me, especially someone who does not do this kind of stuff everyday. Ya it was simple, but allot of guesstimating and VERY VERY time consuming and always wondering could I do it better. I wanted it to look like the one from Sounds Good Stereo, at least in my mind that was what I was wanting. Well for one PVC boards are not cheap and readily available. I was lucky I had a vendor who gave me a 24x36 PVC for free that I used this for the Subs. The Amp board I used this and highly recommend (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQL4BBT/?tag=fordraptorforum-20) - Picture shows White, but it is black. I did not have a router, but used my dad’s and a 1/4” round over bit to at least make it look proper. To secure the Amp and Sub boards, I used Nutcerts and M5 screws to secure into back of truck. (For the record after install was complete, I re-did the boards, but still do not like it).

Wiring
I ran ground and power from driver side rear of truck, down driver side under molding, come up by hood release and into the firewall. I squeezed the 2 wires into existing rubber grommet (PAIN IN THE REAR). Got everything to the battery, including a fused disconnect.

I unhooked all factory speakers. I installed tweeters into A-Pillars. I used Factory tweeter holder/mount and just had to shave it down a bit with a belt sander and the Morels fit perfectly. I ran tweeter wire for each side down the side of the truck under moldings. All door speakers use existing wiring and adaptors.

Now for the worst part of the whole thing. Hush sold me on complete Plug in play. FAR FROM THAT. Once I got everything hooked up I was NOT getting any sound except the front driver door speaker. The Pac-Audio APH-FD02 is NOT FOR THE B&O Unleashed. It says it is only for the 2019-2020 F150. I mentioned this several times to Hush, he assured me it was correct. After about 4 hrs of troubleshooting, Noah here from the Car Stereo Company spent a good 3 hrs at night helping me trouble shoot (at some point he sent me a wiring diagram that showed rear speakers are in the front). We could not figure it out. This was on a Saturday night. Thank you!!!!

On Monday am, I called and troubleshooted with NavTv and we figured out the Pac Harness pin locations were incorrect. SO DO NOT USE THE PIN LOCATIONS FOR THE PAC HARNESS IF YOU HAVE THE UNLEASHED. I even got a call back from PAC and they flat out said harness will not match wiring location for speaker. Also had to modify the plug to fit (this is known and there are videos from 5 Star Stereo that tells you this). Bob at NAVTV was basically frustrated as I was. He then was going to have me bring to one of their locations that are vendors of their Products and troubleshoot. We also noticed that I was not getting any sound from a few of the RCA outputs on the NavTV. After a bunch of back and forth Bob called me and said call Don at Sounds Good Stereo. He knows what is going on and has a harness they can send you. I called them and Don basically said he has no idea why, but Ford decided to run the REAR doors from the AMP behind the stereo. He sold me a harness that plugs into back of the from AMP and runs to back of truck where I can hook to my amp. They have several versions, like to also include the factory tweeter wire as well, but I had done all that already so they made a custom harness. When I got the harness I started to take the whole stereo apart and noticed the screen isn’t even attached to the guts of the radio. On a late week day night, I called Don and one of the techs helped me out. You do not have to pull radio. You can actually pull the amp straight out the top of the dash under the center speaker location and add harness. Once that was done, simply ran those wires to back of truck down to behind glove box and down passenger side of truck). As noted before Bob noticed I was not getting sound from a few of the RCA’s on the NavTV. They sent me a new one and finally, after about 2 weeks of BS, I had sound.

I reached out to Hush to help me tune it, he gave me some advice, but not as helpful as I would have liked. I just spent a shit load of money and not sure it is even tuned right. I mean, I am no expert, but a little more help would have been appreciated. I understand basic stuff, but for someone who does not do this allot, your looking at all these options on the Amp and Subs it was over whelming. I just wanted someone to hold my hand. If I was doing this for a living, I’d spend 10+ hours on YouTube and figure it out. But at this point, I was stressed and just wanted help.

If I had to do all over:
Buy at minimum the Amp Board from Sounds Good and mount everything. But still would be hard if I am not sure of clearances etc.

https://soundsgoodstereo.com/collec...ord-f-series-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate

I am guessing at a minimum I spent a good 30+ hours for this install. At least 6 hours for installing the Sound Deadening and maybe 4 hours to run wiring. Not sure about you, but my time is somewhat valuable and there is a point that it makes sense to just have it done for you, just short of paying someone to completely install (hands off) the system. With what I know now, I’d spend at least $1500-$2000 to have a Amp Board pre-wired and ready to go, which Sounds Good offers. Can I value my time over $2000 and not have any stress up to that point? Ya I can, I mean I have a Raptor for gods sake LOL. And the fact that Sounds Good does SO MANY Raptors and F150, it’s ridiculous. They know what can go where and what will not fit etc.

Also Hush is an installer, so allot of the little things you need, an installer has probably most of it. I tried to pre-buy allot of what I thought I would need, but it would make you sick if you saw my Amazon Order history it had screws, Ferrel Crimpers, NutCerts, NutCert Tool, Different sizes of ABS/PVC boards, Cloth Tape, more Zip Ties, Butyl Rubber Sealant, etc. Thank god I have a separate Amazon account from the wife.

My experience with Hush over all was good. Pricing was very good. Install help, so/so. In his defense he was moving from California to Texas. However at times I was hoping for more help in the tuning. Allot of what I had to do was pretty simple, but sometimes you need that extra help, which he gave at times, just not enough. If I he had sold me the correct harnesses it would have been much smoother. I still do not know if I have it tuned correctly. Might suck it up and take it to a local installer and have them help me.

Shockingly Sounds Good saved me with that harness. I was at a breaking point and stress the F&^K out. Come this far, spent what I considered a good chunk of cash and felt defeated, stressed and just not happy.

Now that it is done, IT IS WAY BETTER THAN THE B&O. I hope this helps any of you, for me I wish I had this before I started my journey, would have been allot easier and less stress.
So, I’m looking to do a complete speaker swap. Did you find speakers to fit in the factory spots on the dash? Left, right and center?
And the tweeters in the A Pillars, did the speakers fit perfectly?

Thank you for your help.
 
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gobluejd

gobluejd

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So, I’m looking to do a complete speaker swap. Did you find speakers to fit in the factory spots on the dash? Left, right and center?
And the tweeters in the A Pillars, did the speakers fit perfectly?

Thank you for your help.
Only used doors and tweeters in A -Pillar. Dash F/L and Center are disconnected. The tweeter from morel requires me trimming the plastic retaining bracket by ~0.375”. Did this on stationary belt sander.
 

tfreshour47

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Only used doors and tweeters in A -Pillar. Dash F/L and Center are disconnected. The tweeter from morel requires me trimming the plastic retaining bracket by ~0.375”. Did this on stationary belt sander.
Gotcha okay.
Trying to find dash L/R mids that fit to keep the 3 ways.
 
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gobluejd

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I wanted same thing, but Hush and and everyone else said those are not needed and they were 100% correct. I listen to 70% old school rap (and current) and some 80/90’s and the rest are podcasts. I thought it would’nt sound good when listening to podcasts cause I wanted those dash speakers. I get in my wife’s Lincoln Nautilus and mine is still 100x better.
 
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