I purchased my F-150 Raptor new off the lot in 2011. I'm now up to 140k, it's my daily. Love this truck!
Last week I went to drive my truck to work and when I put it in gear, it wouldn't move and the big orange wrench showed up on the screen
I have replaced my transmission fluid twice since owning my truck, so it was about due for a fluid change anyways.
After some troubleshooting & research the Molded Lead Frame sounded like it was it. I called my local dealer to get a price on the parts and also what it would cost to have them do the work.
They quoted $1,300 for the parts & to do all the work... I quickly decided to do it myself!
I found a new Molded Lead Frame in stock at one of my local dealers for $205. Not wanting to shop around for a better price and risk it going out of stock since they seem to be on back order again, I purchased the Lead Frame from a local dealer (their last one!) and ordered everything else online.
I watched (& rewatched) the excellent FordTechMakuloco YouTube video a few times both before & during the change.
My Old Lead Frame Part# was: AL3P-7G276-AK
My New Lead Frame Part# is: MB3P-7G276-AA
In total I spent just under $450, which included:
Molded Lead Frame (with the small foam seal to fit between the Lead Frame & the Solenoid connectors)
2 x 1.25 Gallon Mercon LV fluid
Assembly Goo
Transmission Pan Gasket
Transmission Filter
Transmission Connector Sealing Sleeve
Valve Body Seal
Manual Fluid Pump
Everything showed up by Sunday, so I got started. Going slow & double / triple checking everything, I completed the swap in about 3 1/2 hours. No issues at all. A couple notes though:
DO NOT save money on a manual fluid pump to refill the oil in the transmission. Buy an electric one. It took almost an additional 2 hours to pump in 2+ gallons of transmission fluid! 1st I filled it till it overflowed ~5qt, start truck, with ebrake on, shift to D, then R, then N, then back to Park (wait a few seconds after each shift). Check fluid level and pump in the last ~5qt!
Look at the torque sequence picture and make sure you remove only the T30 bolts to drop the valve body! It doesn't seem like it, but you can accidentally unscrew one of the T27 bolts with the T30 bit.
After removing my valve body, I noticed that one of my solenoids is different, looks aftermarket (see photo). I'm not sure why that is. I have no service records where it was replaced. Does anyone think this is a serious problem? Everything works fine
Of course after reading way to much about the Lead Frame swap, I will most likely be replacing my Transmission Cooler Lines now too since I am over 100k miles.
On top of that, my Power Steering is leaking fluid all down my radiator, so it looks like I will be installing an external cooler as well. Possibly be replacing some of those lines as well.
Last week I went to drive my truck to work and when I put it in gear, it wouldn't move and the big orange wrench showed up on the screen
I have replaced my transmission fluid twice since owning my truck, so it was about due for a fluid change anyways.
After some troubleshooting & research the Molded Lead Frame sounded like it was it. I called my local dealer to get a price on the parts and also what it would cost to have them do the work.
They quoted $1,300 for the parts & to do all the work... I quickly decided to do it myself!
I found a new Molded Lead Frame in stock at one of my local dealers for $205. Not wanting to shop around for a better price and risk it going out of stock since they seem to be on back order again, I purchased the Lead Frame from a local dealer (their last one!) and ordered everything else online.
I watched (& rewatched) the excellent FordTechMakuloco YouTube video a few times both before & during the change.
My Old Lead Frame Part# was: AL3P-7G276-AK
My New Lead Frame Part# is: MB3P-7G276-AA
In total I spent just under $450, which included:
Molded Lead Frame (with the small foam seal to fit between the Lead Frame & the Solenoid connectors)
2 x 1.25 Gallon Mercon LV fluid
Assembly Goo
Transmission Pan Gasket
Transmission Filter
Transmission Connector Sealing Sleeve
Valve Body Seal
Manual Fluid Pump
Everything showed up by Sunday, so I got started. Going slow & double / triple checking everything, I completed the swap in about 3 1/2 hours. No issues at all. A couple notes though:
DO NOT save money on a manual fluid pump to refill the oil in the transmission. Buy an electric one. It took almost an additional 2 hours to pump in 2+ gallons of transmission fluid! 1st I filled it till it overflowed ~5qt, start truck, with ebrake on, shift to D, then R, then N, then back to Park (wait a few seconds after each shift). Check fluid level and pump in the last ~5qt!
Look at the torque sequence picture and make sure you remove only the T30 bolts to drop the valve body! It doesn't seem like it, but you can accidentally unscrew one of the T27 bolts with the T30 bit.
After removing my valve body, I noticed that one of my solenoids is different, looks aftermarket (see photo). I'm not sure why that is. I have no service records where it was replaced. Does anyone think this is a serious problem? Everything works fine
Of course after reading way to much about the Lead Frame swap, I will most likely be replacing my Transmission Cooler Lines now too since I am over 100k miles.
On top of that, my Power Steering is leaking fluid all down my radiator, so it looks like I will be installing an external cooler as well. Possibly be replacing some of those lines as well.
