Missing Caps

[MTF]

Check the connections down at the starter!!!

 

[FordTechOne]

nope. no check engine lights. I rechecked the battery at rest and under load and they're still reading 2 volts over normal for both.

Sounds like you may need a new voltmeter. The system should never charge at 17 volts; voltage that high will cause modules to start powering down and you should have a “check charging system” message along with other warning indicators. With the engine off, battery voltage should be approximately 12.6V.

the only thing I've changed on the vehicle from stock are a forscan code to fold the mirrors on exit.

It feels like a fuel system issue - clogged injector possibly, but my engine repair experience has been limited to a 91 jeep yj and they're dinosaurs compared to this truck.

I have an appointment at ford, ugh, on tuesday. I'll replace the battery with an optima yellow tomorrow in the hopes I can cancel the appt and just buy a new screw cap for the AC.

Since you have ForScan, pull codes in all
modules and let us know what you find.

 

[richnot]

also the voltage shouldn be that high. recheck and make sure your test lead connections are solid before getting a reading.

When you check for voltage coming off the alternator what wire do you go to? The only reason I ask is because of the jump starting procedure ( no ground to battery and more) that can cause issues if done incorrectly

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

the big red cable going to the battery. modern vehicles are below 14v now while it is running. before, the standard was 14.4 volts but thats changed over the years

 

[richnot]

the big red cable going to the battery. modern vehicles are below 14v now while it is running. before, the standard was 14.4 volts but thats changed over the years

So no more going right to the alternator and ground? It scares me that if you use a test light instead of a meter you can do some damage. I have all the tools but always triple check when it comes to electronics. A fuse is cheap but I imagine module is not, I know my wifes Jeep shows the voltage that the charging system is putting out, is that available on the Raptor.I`d check but I`m hooked up to some wires and tubes right now

It seems like new vehicles are so damn delicate, Raptor included especially after reading the manual and supplement on the 4wd system, don`t rock back and forth if stuck and so on

It is as if they built a high performance truck that won`t break o the road but you better be careful while playing

 

[Kevin Olsen]

FORSCAN CODES:
U0140 - Lost Comm with BCM
U0415 - Invalid data from ABS
U3003 - Battery Voltage

According to http://u3003.enginetroublecode.com/ford-f-150, every symptom I detailed belongs to those codes.

To the dealer, with knowledge, I go (on Tuesday). It doesn't sound cheap.

 

[FordTechOne]

So no more going right to the alternator and ground? It scares me that if you use a test light instead of a meter you can do some damage. I have all the tools but always triple check when it comes to electronics. A fuse is cheap but I imagine module is not, I know my wifes Jeep shows the voltage that the charging system is putting out, is that available on the Raptor.I`d check but I`m hooked up to some wires and tubes right now

What are you using to measure voltage? If you’re using a high impedance DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) you can measure between the Alternator B+ post and ground, between the positive battery post and ground, between the positive battery +/- posts, etc. If you’re using the proper DVOM and have the leads in the correct ports, you’re not going to hurt anything.

 

[FordTechOne]

FORSCAN CODES:
U0140 - Lost Comm with BCM
U0415 - Invalid data from ABS
U3003 - Battery Voltage

According to http://u3003.enginetroublecode.com/ford-f-150, every symptom I detailed belongs to those codes.

To the dealer, with knowledge, I go (on Tuesday). It doesn't sound cheap.

If you don’t have any additional symptoms you can ignore the first 2 DTCs; those can set intermittently for a number of reasons including low battery voltage or high network traffic. None of the information on that website link you posted is accurate.

DTC indicates a battery voltage concern, which is most likely the root cause of your issue. Since you’re out of warranty, I would suggest going to your local chain auto parts store and having them test the battery, most do it for free. They use a similar piece of equipment to what the dealer uses, almost all are made by Midtronics. If the battery tests bad, you can simply buy a new battery instead of paying the dealer diagnostic fee.

 

[Kevin Olsen]

I just bought an optima yellow top and these results are after I installed it.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[FordTechOne]

I just bought an optima yellow top and these results are after I installed it.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Did you clear the DTCs and re-scan? They won’t clear themselves until a number of drive cycles.

You also need to do a Battery Monitoring System (BMS) reset after replacing the battery. Not sure if that service function is available in ForScan, if not you will need IDS (dealer) to do it.