Missing Caps

[Kevin Olsen]

2018 Raptor with 60k miles here...

It has been slow to turn over in the morning, sometimes taking up to 15 seconds to start. It also has been idling rough when I first start driving it and today I had to push the accelerator about halfway down before it responded from a rolling start.

I went out to test my battery and alternator with a multimeter and everything seems good (14.5 when off, 17ish when on).

While poking around, I found a black cap sitting in my battery tray and I found where it belongs, but there's another outlet behind it that is missing a cap. What are they, why might they have been removed and do I need to get a replacement for the back one?

Also, any other ideas why the truck would be wonky at start? I was going to put in some injector cleaner thinking maybe it was a fuel issue since the battery appears fine. 60k miles on it.

Picture of the part I'm talking about and a beauty shot of my CX Revo to show it off.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

those are for the ac. covers for the ports for filling. wont affect starting

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

also the voltage shouldn be that high. recheck and make sure your test lead connections are solid before getting a reading.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

those are for the ac. covers for the ports for filling. wont affect starting

You should replace any missing caps, as dirt and water will get in there and deteriorate the schraeder cores and refrigerant will eventually leak.

On another note, do you have a check engine light present on the dash? Sounds like its in limp mode or something.

 

[Kevin Olsen]

nope. no check engine lights. I rechecked the battery at rest and under load and they're still reading 2 volts over normal for both.

the only thing I've changed on the vehicle from stock are a forscan code to fold the mirrors on exit.

It feels like a fuel system issue - clogged injector possibly, but my engine repair experience has been limited to a 91 jeep yj and they're dinosaurs compared to this truck.

I have an appointment at ford, ugh, on tuesday. I'll replace the battery with an optima yellow tomorrow in the hopes I can cancel the appt and just buy a new screw cap for the AC.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

nope. no check engine lights. I rechecked the battery at rest and under load and they're still reading 2 volts over normal for both.

the only thing I've changed on the vehicle from stock are a forscan code to fold the mirrors on exit.

It feels like a fuel system issue - clogged injector possibly, but my engine repair experience has been limited to a 91 jeep yj and they're dinosaurs compared to this truck.

I have an appointment at ford, ugh, on tuesday. I'll replace the battery with an optima yellow tomorrow in the hopes I can cancel the appt and just buy a new screw cap for the AC.

Usually if there is a problem with the charging system you should get a cel, wouldnt your battery be covered under warranty still anyway?

 

[Kevin Olsen]

I don't think anything is covered under warranty at 60,900 miles.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Damn, youre just over!


Well, let us know what happens anyway, good luck.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Just a thought, if you want to rule out your battery, get somebody to jump your truck with cables and see if that restores engine performance or not.

 

[Kevin Olsen]

my wife drives a Model S, so she's no help.