GEN 2 Loss of power, under heavy accelerating

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Donovan

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Hey folks..

SPD downpipes, CFV FMI, BOV, COBB stage 2.

Not sure if anyone else has experieneced this. Under heavy load, when I really push the vehicle up to 5/6k RPM, I get a check engine light that flashes and the vehicle shakes a bunch. This did not happen before the mods or tune. I'm running the latest firmware of COBB. I do have spark plugs to change, because I did have a misfire code that I read after the firsts occurance. While at idle, I frequently get a rough engine shake but the check engine light only flashes if I push the truck and when it does flash its like I have half of the engine power (limp mode) and I have to let it naturally slow down by itself to about 45/50 then the engine light stops flashing and I regain full power.

Thoughts?

1. I may take the tune off and try it out
2. I may take the tune off and take it to ford
3. Regardless of the two above, I'm not taking off the FMIC/SPD downpipes
 

1BAD454SSv2

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You need new spark plugs gap them .25 to .28 gap. Higher boost is blowing out the spark . Takes me about half hour to change them on my 14 ecoboost
 

New Nick at JDM

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A Flashing CEL under load is most often an active misfire.
Can be sometimes accompanied by p0300 misfire code and p0301-p0306 codes indicating an individual cylinder.
Start with replacing plugs and gapping down if you have not already.
Smaller gap helps the spark jump the gap between electrode and ground strap when cylinder pressures are higher.

We tell all our customers to run SP-550's and gap to .028" but if all 6 are uniformly gapped at .026" - .030" it's not what we like but you're probably OK. Wider gaps tend to be a bit better for low load situations and starting, where as tighter gaps help at higher loads such as WOT.
 
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Donovan

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I bought SP 542s....

and yup P- 0301....cyl 1...

I'm a WOT type of person, so are you suggesting run .26 vs .30?
 
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COBB Tuning

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Since the truck was running well before, and no other changes have been made to the truck outside of adding miles, plugs seem like the most likely culprit. Besides that, I would recommend:

• Inspect intercooler piping for boost leaks
• Check your intake air filter for excess dirt/grime build up
• I would also recommend checking your oil level - might sound strange, but I've seen some odd behavior attributed to low oil level before. Basically, oil sloshes away from the pickup under heavy acceleration, oil pressure drops, and cam phasers (which use oil pressure to operate) can no longer hit their target positions. Cam position is a cornerstone of how all EcoBoost ECUs work, and will influence ignition timing, speed density calculations, load limits, etc. that could throw engine operation out of whack and lead to sudden changes in drivability, and possibly even misfires.

If you haven't already cleared codes/reset ECU, it would be helpful to know which exact engine codes were being thrown. Curious to see if there are any other codes besides P030x misfire codes.
 
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Donovan

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Hello COBB,

Thanks for chiming in and just so we are clear. I'm NOT blaming COBB for their tune nor am I blaming CVF or SPD for their products.

I will do plugs tonight and its funny that you noted the oil, I looked at the oil % for life and its at 54%. I'm going to assume that its 54% used until I'm ready for another oil change vs 54% actual oil left in the engine lol.

Don
 

smurfslayer

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The oil warning is legit. It’s like the Raptor is a soccer referee that loves the throw the yellow card. LOTS of posters here have had the low oil condition, either from the factory, stealership pre delivery inspection and owner not checking the oil... EVER and Bob’s your uncle, your Raptor throws a crap ton of faults and goes into self preservation mode ; translated “No, we’re not going WFO, we’re pulling to the side of the road, and we’ll like it”.

Not all of these are owner fault, the valve cover issue caused some ’18’s on up to use oil and there have been some defective sensors.

good luck!
 
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