Looking for Morimoto XB headlight installation video

Ski4Ever

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Anyone happen to have a link for a good set of instructions (or even better, a video) for installing the Morimoto XB headlights on a Gen2 Raptor?

I've searched the forum with no luck, and done a bunch of Google searches and I found a few videos of installation instructions for F-150s, but I'm not exactly convinced the wiring is the same as on a Raptor. I'm sure I can figure out the hardware installation, but the electrical could be tricky to just guess at, I'm sure.

One thing that already has me stumped is that I received a separate package from the headlights that just has a micro fuse tap in it, but nothing else in the package other than a packing list. To be honest, I haven't fully unpacked the headlights from the box they came in, but I did dig into one of the boxes inside the main box, and it seemed to just have a headlight, attached wiring, and an additional harness. I didn't seem to come across an installation guide in there.

Anyone have any hints/suggestions? Thanks!
 

LF LandShark 2818

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I just got a set for my 2018 Raptor for Christmas and have been scouring the internet to prep for my install tomorrow. Here are the two most useful videos I've found for the Raptor that explain the wiring harness @4x4TruckLEDs.com and the actual nuts and bolts portion (Headlight Revolution)

Wiring

Removal/Install

The micro fuse tap you received will replace the Mini Fuse tap shipped from Morimoto (it will not work in your truck). There is a decent amount of debate on which fuse to tap into but I have decided to go with Fuse 14.

Also of note there are many different videos showing wiring configurations to use the sequential turn signal. Some say leave that wire unplugged, other videos say plug it in. I won't know the correct answer until i put them in tomorrow and figure out which one is correct to make the turn signal sequential.

Here is a link to the PDF install guide from Morimoto which you will find is not very helpful and is contradicted in several ways by actual users who have installed the lights. My plan is to blend info from all three of these sources and make it work.

 
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LF LandShark 2818

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@LF LandShark 2818 Doesn't look like the links you sent worked, but after a bit of sleuthing around in your post, I think these are what you tried to post:


and



Just realized that and went back to the original post to edit and add some more info. Sorry about that but hopefully this will get you going in the right direction.
 
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Ski4Ever

Ski4Ever

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Just realized that and went back to the original post to edit and add some more info. Sorry about that but hopefully this will get you going in the right direction.
Excellent...thanks for the info. If you wouldn't mind following up with me here to let me know what you ended up doing as far as the DRL connection as well as the fuse tap, that would be great. Thanks again!
 

LF LandShark 2818

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Excellent...thanks for the info. If you wouldn't mind following up with me here to let me know what you ended up doing as far as the DRL connection as well as the fuse tap, that would be great. Thanks again!

Will do, ill check back in tomorrow after its all wrapped up and let you know.
 

masterwacker

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Leave the single wire plugged in for sequential turn signal or unplug for standard blinker. The 4x4led video is on point on the correct wiring and a couple good tips on getting rid o xtra **** not needed for a truck with factory halogen headlights. Love the lights as way better than factory led, but for over a $1,000 part would have expected the instructions to be better AND updated for their 2nd Gen lights instead of he 1st Gen and leaving a lot of important parts out. Good luck on install and you will love the ouput!
 

LF LandShark 2818

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Got the lights installed and here is what i found.

You will have far less bolts and parts to remove compared to the F150 HR video. Having a second set of hands was very helpful since instead of removing the lower plastic portion under the headlight, we simply pulled it aside.

You do not need to remove the fender flares on the Raptor and there are no 7mm bolts inside the fender like in the HR F150 video.

Leave the single wire plugged in for sequential as @masterwacker advised. Be very careful with the single pin DRL connector. It was one of the only problems I ran into during the install. I had to bend the male end pin with a screwdriver in order for it to fit correctly. My entire passenger side light did not work until we fixed it.

I used fuse 14 and had no troubles. The only thing of note is that i pulled the lower 10A fuse and replaced it with the 15A fuse that i had to remove in order to have a spot to plug in the micro fuse adapter.

If you have any other questions please let me know and id be glad to help you out. The only thing i have left to do is aim the lights. Mine came VERY low out of the box. Any input on how to aim them properly would be greatly appreciated.
 

masterwacker

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Got the lights installed and here is what i found.

You will have far less bolts and parts to remove compared to the F150 HR video. Having a second set of hands was very helpful since instead of removing the lower plastic portion under the headlight, we simply pulled it aside.

You do not need to remove the fender flares on the Raptor and there are no 7mm bolts inside the fender like in the HR F150 video.

Leave the single wire plugged in for sequential as @masterwacker advised. Be very careful with the single pin DRL connector. It was one of the only problems I ran into during the install. I had to bend the male end pin with a screwdriver in order for it to fit correctly. My entire passenger side light did not work until we fixed it.

I used fuse 14 and had no troubles. The only thing of note is that i pulled the lower 10A fuse and replaced it with the 15A fuse that i had to remove in order to have a spot to plug in the micro fuse adapter.

If you have any other questions please let me know and id be glad to help you out. The only thing i have left to do is aim the lights. Mine came VERY low out of the box. Any input on how to aim them properly would be greatly appreciated.
glad the install went well. Thanks for pointing out the DRL connector as that was the sam on mine and forgot to mention that.

For aiming the lights do the following at night or in a dark warehouse/building:
-Find a level ground with a wall/door/building you can shine the headlights on. Needs to be flat, not corrugated as that will impact the beam cutoff line. If rough concrete or stone that is fine as the line is still easily discernible.
-Measure out 25’ from wall/door/building and this is where you will position truck with the front of the headlights at this position
-Measure from ground to halfway up headlight face, write this measurement down. This works just fine or you can use the little circle on the headlight face as that is the axis reference mark.
-Take some painters tape and on the wall/door/building put tape horizontal to the ground with the top edge of the tape being at the height from the ground that you wrote down in the previous step.
-Open hood, turn headlights on (obviously), and using the adjuster ”bolt”, 8mm gear wrench works best, adjust the driver’s side headlight until the top line of the light is right at the top line of the tape.
- For passenger headlight you I’ll do the same but you want the top cutoff line to be 2” higher than the tape and driver’s side headlight.
-Driver’s headlight is set at tape to reduce blinding oncoming traffic (depending on height of truck). Passenger headlight is set higher to light up road signs so they are visible in a usable way while driving.

On the Morrimoto XB I don’t remember if raising was clockwise or counterclockwise, but you will figure it out very quickly.

Addendum #1 - Fog lights in Raptor bumper that you want to use in traffic (SAE style) use 30’ instead of 25’ and the rest of the steps are the same
- other off road lights the Measurements vary greatly depending on the beam pattern and I just aim to what makes sense and provides the best visibility.

Hope this helps. If you want a more scientific explanation of the above then refer to Daniel Stern Lighing as this is what the above instructions are simplified from. I have used his methods for years with great success.
 

LF LandShark 2818

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glad the install went well. Thanks for pointing out the DRL connector as that was the sam on mine and forgot to mention that.

For aiming the lights do the following at night or in a dark warehouse/building:
-Find a level ground with a wall/door/building you can shine the headlights on. Needs to be flat, not corrugated as that will impact the beam cutoff line. If rough concrete or stone that is fine as the line is still easily discernible.
-Measure out 25’ from wall/door/building and this is where you will position truck with the front of the headlights at this position
-Measure from ground to halfway up headlight face, write this measurement down. This works just fine or you can use the little circle on the headlight face as that is the axis reference mark.
-Take some painters tape and on the wall/door/building put tape horizontal to the ground with the top edge of the tape being at the height from the ground that you wrote down in the previous step.
-Open hood, turn headlights on (obviously), and using the adjuster ”bolt”, 8mm gear wrench works best, adjust the driver’s side headlight until the top line of the light is right at the top line of the tape.
- For passenger headlight you I’ll do the same but you want the top cutoff line to be 2” higher than the tape and driver’s side headlight.
-Driver’s headlight is set at tape to reduce blinding oncoming traffic (depending on height of truck). Passenger headlight is set higher to light up road signs so they are visible in a usable way while driving.

On the Morrimoto XB I don’t remember if raising was clockwise or counterclockwise, but you will figure it out very quickly.

Addendum #1 - Fog lights in Raptor bumper that you want to use in traffic (SAE style) use 30’ instead of 25’ and the rest of the steps are the same
- other off road lights the Measurements vary greatly depending on the beam pattern and I just aim to what makes sense and provides the best visibility.

Hope this helps. If you want a more scientific explanation of the above then refer to Daniel Stern Lighing as this is what the above instructions are simplified from. I have used his methods for years with great success.

Thank you very much, this helps a ton and ill be doing this tonight.
 
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