IWE CV axle help

[Badgertits]

Started getting a tapping noise in my drivers front wheel well area that got progressively worse to where I could feel it in the steering wheel & floorboards, would come & go - seemed to be worse in colder weather, Mostly noticeable @ lower speeds, would hear/feel it much more when the steering wheel was turning left or right vs going straight ahead- made the noise in 2Wd or 4A but seemed to stop in 4H

Noise got progressively worse thought to try & change the IWE check valve out w/ a new one but never did it b/c the original was on very very tight & I didn’t wanna break anything.

Last weekend started hearing what sounded like air hose blowing form under hood pulling WOT on hwy, drove it easy since- thought was a turbo pipe loose but truck still seems to be pulling hard & making boost but got the following codes:

P0455 evap system large leak
P0A5B generator current sensor circuit low
P144C evap system purge flow performance under boost

Bring it to dealer to diagnose have had it all day- call & tell me they recommend replacing intermediate shafts (huh? Do they mean CV axles??) & hubs & alignment to the F’n tune of $5k- Faaaaahhhhkkkkkkk YOU!!!!

I ask- “did your tech do a leak/smoke test to determine where the vacuum leak was? I know the hub may be bad from the grinding sound- but what about the air noise/leak that JUST cropped up & wasn’t present when the axle/hub/IWE sound was?” And also “what about just capping off the IWE system altogether as an option?” - crickets

And they wanna charge me a $250 “diagnostic fee” - for F’n what!?!?!? Yeah I could order new front CVs, hub/bearing assemblies & either new IWE hubs or IWE delete hubs & just get em installed by an independent shop or myself, I’m savvy enough to guess that throwing those front end parts may do the trick…..or maybe NOT which is why I brought it to a dealer to actually determine the cause.

From what I can tell? I could order new axles, hub/bearing assemblies & either a new set of IWE hubs or IWE delete hubs….for less than $1k delivered to my door….so even if this ******* dealer is 100% correct in their diagnosis, how does the other $4k+ in labor & an an alignment pan out!?!?!?

So frustrating.

 

[smgilles]

Started getting a tapping noise in my drivers front wheel well area that got progressively worse to where I could feel it in the steering wheel & floorboards, would come & go - seemed to be worse in colder weather, Mostly noticeable @ lower speeds, would hear/feel it much more when the steering wheel was turning left or right vs going straight ahead- made the noise in 2Wd or 4A but seemed to stop in 4H

Noise got progressively worse thought to try & change the IWE check valve out w/ a new one but never did it b/c the original was on very very tight & I didn’t wanna break anything.

Last weekend started hearing what sounded like air hose blowing form under hood pulling WOT on hwy, drove it easy since- thought was a turbo pipe loose but truck still seems to be pulling hard & making boost but got the following codes:

P0455 evap system large leak
P0A5B generator current sensor circuit low
P144C evap system purge flow performance under boost

Bring it to dealer to diagnose have had it all day- call & tell me they recommend replacing intermediate shafts (huh? Do they mean CV axles??) & hubs & alignment to the F’n tune of $5k- Faaaaahhhhkkkkkkk YOU!!!!

I ask- “did your tech do a leak/smoke test to determine where the vacuum leak was? I know the hub may be bad from the grinding sound- but what about the air noise/leak that JUST cropped up & wasn’t present when the axle/hub/IWE sound was?” And also “what about just capping off the IWE system altogether as an option?” - crickets

And they wanna charge me a $250 “diagnostic fee” - for F’n what!?!?!? Yeah I could order new front CVs, hub/bearing assemblies & either new IWE hubs or IWE delete hubs & just get em installed by an independent shop or myself, I’m savvy enough to guess that throwing those front end parts may do the trick…..or maybe NOT which is why I brought it to a dealer to actually determine the cause.

From what I can tell? I could order new axles, hub/bearing assemblies & either a new set of IWE hubs or IWE delete hubs….for less than $1k delivered to my door….so even if this ******* dealer is 100% correct in their diagnosis, how does the other $4k+ in labor & an an alignment pan out!?!?!?

So frustrating.

That sounds terribly frustrating and expensive. My best guess is that in 4a and still hearing the “grinding” your IWE actuators were not fully engaged and just chewing on the teeth. You must have a leak somewhere that caused engagement in 2h/4a.

A couple of thoughts:

Lift the front of the truck up so the wheels are off the ground. Put 25 of vacuum to each actuator (one at a time) and turn the tire by hand, if you don’t hear any noise then you you know the actuator is disengaging at the hub, if you hear the “grinding” then it’s probably the actuator.

This doesn’t solve your leak issue, but you could just bypass the IWE all together as you already stated if you don’t want to spend the money, assuming once the actuators are fully engaged you aren’t hearing any issues or popping codes.

 

[Badgertits]

That sounds terribly frustrating and expensive. My best guess is that in 4a and still hearing the “grinding” your IWE actuators were not fully engaged and just chewing on the teeth. You must have a leak somewhere that caused engagement in 2h/4a.

A couple of thoughts:

Lift the front of the truck up so the wheels are off the ground. Put 25 of vacuum to each actuator (one at a time) and turn the tire by hand, if you don’t hear any noise then you you know the actuator is disengaging at the hub, if you hear the “grinding” then it’s probably the actuator.

This doesn’t solve your leak issue, but you could just bypass the IWE all together as you already stated if you don’t want to spend the money, assuming once the actuators are fully engaged you aren’t hearing any issues or popping codes.

Yeah very annoying chasing it down bringing to an independent shop now see what they can find.

I am not surprised wheel bearings may need replacing @ 86k+ miles, axles….eh, plenty of AWD launches w/ 70-100whp more than stock & offroading - seems like can get replacements for $200ish a side so not the end of the world.

I’m mostly annoyed w/ the vacuum leak conundrum

 

[smgilles]

Yeah very annoying chasing it down bringing to an independent shop now see what they can find.

I am not surprised wheel bearings may need replacing @ 86k+ miles, axles….eh, plenty of AWD launches w/ 70-100whp more than stock & offroading - seems like can get replacements for $200ish a side so not the end of the world.

I’m mostly annoyed w/ the vacuum leak conundrum

Agreed. I hate the vacuum system Ford used.

 

[SilverGen1]

Yeah very annoying chasing it down bringing to an independent shop now see what they can find.

I am not surprised wheel bearings may need replacing @ 86k+ miles, axles….eh, plenty of AWD launches w/ 70-100whp more than stock & offroading - seems like can get replacements for $200ish a side so not the end of the world.

I’m mostly annoyed w/ the vacuum leak conundrum

I truly recommend sticking with oem parts for this stuff, I have run the AutoZone bullsh1t in the past and it is just garbage comparatively. Save yourself time, money, and a headache, and just buy the oem stuff.

 

[SilverGen1]

Agreed. I hate the vacuum system Ford used.

I just did the IWE delete sleeves, loving them so far

 

[Badgertits]

I just did the IWE delete sleeves, loving them so far

Can you share link to the parts? RVC? I wanna make sure I order the right stuff

Did you have to do anything else w/ IWE system when installing the delete sleeves
Or are they just plug & play?

 

[Badgertits]

I truly recommend sticking with oem parts for this stuff, I have run the AutoZone bullsh1t in the past and it is just garbage comparatively. Save yourself time, money, and a headache, and just buy the oem stuff.

Actually….the OEM motorcraft CVs I found on rockauto are cheaper than the decent looking aftermarket ones I found on American trucks/summit (see attached) assuming TX802/804 are the right ones lol

Insanity that the dealer quoted me $5k for this when it seems like I could buy all the parts for under $900 (CVs, bearings, & either new IWE couplers or the delete sleeves) especially when all the parts are related & need to come out together as it is

 

[SilverGen1]

Can you share link to the parts? RVC? I wanna make sure I order the right stuff

Did you have to do anything else w/ IWE system when installing the delete sleeves
Or are they just plug & play?

RCV IWE Deletes

So they're the same for every gen of raptor, or at least to 2023, according to the website. I ordered mine off of SDHQ, which is where I linked. They had the lowest shipping cost and fastest delivery time. All I did was pull the IWE off, then I put a little smidgen of grease in there, and put it all back together. It's going to look a little weird because it is just the sleeve in there, none of the IWE goes back in. Pretty much plug and play, I ziptied the vacuum line somewhere higher up so if for whatever reason in the future I wanted to go back, I could.

 

[SilverGen1]

Actually….the OEM motorcraft CVs I found on rockauto are cheaper than the decent looking aftermarket ones I found on American trucks/summit (see attached) assuming TX802/804 are the right ones lol

Insanity that the dealer quoted me $5k for this when it seems like I could buy all the parts for under $900 (CVs, bearings, & either new IWE couplers or the delete sleeves) especially when all the parts are related & need to come out together as it is

The only aftermarket I would consider would be the trakkmotive extreme angle CVs, but I haven't looked too much into them, personally I think that's a great find on RockAuto, and there is no reason to charge you 5k for all of that, just ridiculous