It is DONE!. Started my B&O replacement stereo install.

[smurfslayer]

What’s cheap these days? Been to NYC lately? A sandwich in a deli is fifteen bucks. Can of soda two-fitty. Cup of coffee, two-fitty. It’s absurd.

I measure expensive differently.

Been to Switzerland? A burger in Interlaken circa 2008 was 13 francs. And, you had better like Rugenbrau; your local brew ( there were signs for it everywhere. and it wasn’t bad, thankfully ). Or, how about the 17 euro burger at the Dublin hard rock? which at the time, with an exchange rate of 1.75 to a euro made that one expensive burger. We’re talking “Big Kahuna burger” pricey.

But yeah; no. I don’t do NYC, or even NY. I don’t like sequels in general and ours are no exception. NY, NJ, NM... all pale imitations, lacking in originality. I even went to the Brits at their embassy, pleading with them to take back New England; we would retrocede it, free of charge. they said that idea was bollix.

I suppose that’s life in the big city though, ‘spensive eats and everything else. one reason why I don’t live in the big city

 

[MDJAK]

I ate franks tonight. Prefer them to burgers. I’d never trade 13 franks for a burger.

 

[smurfslayer]

13 Franks?! I’d be in the gym 3 hours to burn those calories off! and then the hospital for 3 days, no doubt visited by multiple specialists

 

[MDJAK]

High level inputs to an amp is like seeing your mom, @oldfart and @nassty naked. It's just gross to me.

You wouldn’t think that if your momma was Sophia Loren in her prime.

 

[crash457]

Reserved for amp rack, crossover, and Nav-TV install / wire into factory B&O harness. (edit 6-19) here is where the fun begins.

removed the B&O amp and speaker. used some mdf and mounted a simple board to the factory Amp holder. Had to counter sync the screws, but all 4 went back. it is sturdy.


painted the board black....nice and simple...and mounted the NAV-TV and JL Audio amp.


I did the same thing with the B&O harness I did with the door wires. soldered in my own speaker wire to connect to the amp and crossovers. so the factory harness is in tact, meaning I can go back to stock pretty simple if needed.

Nice setup. Some questions/suggestions:

Did you shrink wrap the splices you did in the harness? It doesn't look like there is any in the picture.

Is you rear door speaker wire running between the door and the speaker? If so, I would make a thin spacer to allow it to not be pinched between them. The vibration can cause these to cut through the insulation.

Did you do any sound deadening? Even just a few pieces on the inner door can make a huge difference. A full sound deadening treatment (inner and outer doors, back of door panels, floor and back wall of cab) will make a so much difference you'll feel like your stereo is twice as loud. It can drop the road noise by as much as 12dB. I'd also recommend replacing the plastic that covers the door openings with ABS panels like these. They will make the door perform like a proper enclosure and give you a lot more midbass. I'd also recommend some foam fastrings. For les than $40, they will help control the sound loss and reverse phase sound from the back of the speaker.

Is your tweeter just held in with carboard? I don't think that will last. Moisture and vibration are going to be an issue. I'd make a strap from ABS. I'd also recommend some foam around the tweeter to help direct the sound. High frequencies are directional and your likely losing a lot of sound with out something to isolate them from the back.

Last thing is your fuse. It looks like its just laying loose next to the battery. You want to mount that more securely to avoid it bouncing around and possibly creating a fire risk if it melts.


Not trying to criticize. Just some feedback to help.

 

[goblues38]

Did you shrink wrap the splices you did in the harness? It doesn't look like there is any in the picture.

Electric Tape on the solder connections.

Nice setup. Some questions/suggestions:
Is you rear door speaker wire running between the door and the speaker? If so, I would make a thin spacer to allow it to not be pinched between them. The vibration can cause these to cut through the insulation.

I made provisions to ensure no pinch would happen.

Did you do any sound deadening? Even just a few pieces on the inner door can make a huge difference. A full sound deadening treatment (inner and outer doors, back of door panels, floor and back wall of cab) will make a so much difference you'll feel like your stereo is twice as loud. It can drop the road noise by as much as 12dB. I'd also recommend replacing the plastic that covers the door openings with ABS panels like these. They will make the door perform like a proper enclosure and give you a lot more midbass. I'd also recommend some foam fastrings. For les than $40, they will help control the sound loss and reverse phase sound from the back of the speaker.

I am well aware of what sound deadener can do for an install. I had an IASCA car where every panel was done with double layers of dynamat. For this install I skipped it because I did not want the extra weight and at the time, I did not want to ruin the new car smell.

The plan is to go back in this summer and give the install a refresh with some updated drivers, and do some sound deadening work then. Should make a big difference and give me a nice feeling of an upgrade.

Is your tweeter just held in with carboard? I don't think that will last. Moisture and vibration are going to be an issue. I'd make a strap from ABS. I'd also recommend some foam around the tweeter to help direct the sound. High frequencies are directional and your likely losing a lot of sound with out something to isolate them from the back.

Yep...but it is sturdy cardboard....lol....and hot glue. I can assure you...it is not going anywhere. At the time I did not have any ABS and Macgivered what I had access to.

Last thing is your fuse. It looks like its just laying loose next to the battery. You want to mount that more securely to avoid it bouncing around and possibly creating a fire risk if it melts.
.

It is very secure with wire ties. Not worried about it at all.

Not trying to criticize. Just some feedback to help.

I appreciate it. As I have said in other forum threads. I used to be in the industry back in the 80's and 90's. Had competition cars and was even a judge on the circuit in 1991. I appreciate good sound, but choose not to spend boat loads of cash on it. I do that with my home theatre. And my wife would not tollerate that level of money being spent on a truck stereo.

At this point, A lot of the things you called out are relevant, but fluff to me. They can take a system from 90% to 100%. My take is, i went from a 30% factory to 85% aftermarket for minimal money and I am happy. I will add parts here and there to continue to upgrade.

Any time you want to meet up and take a listen...let me know.

 

[crash457]

Electric Tape on the solder connections.



I made provisions to ensure no pinch would happen.



I am well aware of what sound deadener can do for an install. I had an IASCA car where every panel was done with double layers of dynamat. For this install I skipped it because I did not want the extra weight and at the time, I did not want to ruin the new car smell.

The plan is to go back in this summer and give the install a refresh with some updated drivers, and do some sound deadening work then. Should make a big difference and give me a nice feeling of an upgrade.



Yep...but it is sturdy cardboard....lol....and hot glue. I can assure you...it is not going anywhere. At the time I did not have any ABS and Macgivered what I had access to.



It is very secure with wire ties. Not worried about it at all.




I appreciate it. As I have said in other forum threads. I used to be in the industry back in the 80's and 90's. Had competition cars and was even a judge on the circuit in 1991. I appreciate good sound, but choose not to spend boat loads of cash on it. I do that with my home theatre. And my wife would not tollerate that level of money being spent on a truck stereo.

At this point, A lot of the things you called out are relevant, but fluff to me. They can take a system from 90% to 100%. My take is, i went from a 30% factory to 85% aftermarket for minimal money and I am happy. I will add parts here and there to continue to upgrade.

Any time you want to meet up and take a listen...let me know.

I might have to take you up on that. I'm putting together my setup now So I can do a full install when the weather warms up. I'm trying to keep everything concealed and keep the floor open. That really limits me since I have to make room behind the seat for the sub and the amp. I will probably do a single 8 or single 10 in a box behind the seat and a 5 channel amp with separates in the front and coaxes in the rear, full sound deadening and block off plates.

 

[BigDinTexas]

Looks like NAVTV has updated the box and increased price:
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp12a-a2b.html

Has anyone gotten the newest version and tell me if it's worth buying from them or should I just get the older version for $50 less?

 

[goblues38]

I cant see what is different? I will see if there is a firmware update and let you know.

 

[goblues38]

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