GEN 2 Issues with paddle shifting in manual mode

[Vintabu]

So I seldomly drive my truck hard but when I want to have fun I will put the truck in sport mode and M and use the paddle shifters.

I have noticed that in doing so if I do not shift up at the exact rev-point prior to redline the truck loses all power and will not take any throttle input. Today it even cause my oil pressure gauge to drop out and went red. A restart of the engine quickly corrected that though.

This happens every time I “overrev” the truck. I just find it hard to believe that ford would design the truck to do this.

Anyone else have the same issue?


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[Raptorguy1]

I accidentally put mine in M one day and didn't notice until it felt like no power and was revving at or above redline. After I took my foot off the gas and put it in drive, it went back to normal and seems like nothing was damaged. Perhaps, there's a failsafe built in that kicks it to neutral if this happens.

 

[smurfslayer]

So I seldomly drive my truck hard but when I want to have fun I will put the truck in sport mode and M and use the paddle shifters.

I have noticed that in doing so if I do not shift up at the exact rev-point prior to redline the truck loses all power and will not take any throttle input. Today it even cause my oil pressure gauge to drop out and went red. A restart of the engine quickly corrected that though.

This happens every time I “overrev” the truck. I just find it hard to believe that ford would design the truck to do this.

Anyone else have the same issue?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is called a “Rev limiter”. Basically, spark, fuel or both are cut as the engine reaches a certain RPM. If you continue to add throttle, the rev limiter continues to cut fuel, spark or both, so you’re still gassing it, the computer is still cutting power and you’re still spinning the engine at - someone chime in here - about 5800 rpms or more.

So the good news is, there’s an easy fix.

Don’t do that.

if you’re paddle shifting in manual mode, pay attention to the tach secondary to what’s in front of and immediately around you.
BTW, there is no difference between manual mode on the shifter and Normal / Sport driving mode.

manual will NOT automatically upshift, but manual mode will downshift if rpms get way too low, like you forgot you’re in manual while coming to a stop.

 

[Vintabu]

Don’t do that.

Lol. “Don’t do that” was kinda the first thing that went through my head


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[xrocket21]

This is called a “Rev limiter”. Basically, spark, fuel or both are cut as the engine reaches a certain RPM. If you continue to add throttle, the rev limiter continues to cut fuel, spark or both, so you’re still gassing it, the computer is still cutting power and you’re still spinning the engine at - someone chime in here - about 5800 rpms or more.

So the good news is, there’s an easy fix.

Don’t do that.

if you’re paddle shifting in manual mode, pay attention to the tach secondary to what’s in front of and immediately around you.
BTW, there is no difference between manual mode on the shifter and Normal / Sport driving mode.

manual will NOT automatically upshift, but manual mode will downshift if rpms get way too low, like you forgot you’re in manual while coming to a stop.

omg im ******* dying over here

 

[lawdog]

Lol. “Don’t do that” was kinda the first thing that went through my head


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With 10 gears, just put it in sport mode and let the transmission do the work...it's just too many shifts manually, unless you are in situation where gear holding between 1-3 gears is in play, like in the mountains/curves. I loved the DSG I had in an old Audi, but that was with 6 gears, not 10. JMO.

 

[mezger]

This is called a “Rev limiter”. Basically, spark, fuel or both are cut as the engine reaches a certain RPM. If you continue to add throttle, the rev limiter continues to cut fuel, spark or both, so you’re still gassing it, the computer is still cutting power and you’re still spinning the engine at - someone chime in here - about 5800 rpms or more.

So the good news is, there’s an easy fix.

Don’t do that.

if you’re paddle shifting in manual mode, pay attention to the tach secondary to what’s in front of and immediately around you.
BTW, there is no difference between manual mode on the shifter and Normal / Sport driving mode.

manual will NOT automatically upshift, but manual mode will downshift if rpms get way too low, like you forgot you’re in manual while coming to a stop.

It's something different, and has happened to me on a couple occasions when trying to have fun of wheel spinning variety while in manual mode, though I have never had any oil pressure weirdness.

With traction and stability control 'disabled', command an upshift near redline that'd cause wheelspin, and the commanded upshift is denied, all power is removed for more than a full second, and subsequent upshift commands are also denied, leaving the driver looking the fool.

I think the same behavior also happens if one commands an upshift too late, but I haven't confirmed that. The key is not that the guy shouldn't be overrevving (which he probably isn't), it's that power is removed for an extended time period and multiple requests for upshift are ignored.

Both my raptor and others I've driven do this; I thought it was a problem with the first one I test drove.

It's some interaction between the nannies and the TCM, very frustrating for an enthusiast vehicle. My unfortunate solution has been to run in auto mode when going for fun and move to manual mode when I want to drive at half fun accelerations... but as detailed in other threads, there are still a lot of frustrating power cuts when in sport mode with nannies off; Baja mode seems to cut power in a more useful manner (confirmed for auto mode, unsure about manual mode), but when I have all nannies supposedly turned off in sport mode or beyond, I expected to be able to land on a youtube fail video if I want to.

IMO, flappies have a purpose... something like sport mode on a planetary auto is useful for running wide open for extended periods especially because it won't respond like a PDK, but when pointing and shooting and shutting down on the street, flappies let me keep the engine where I want it and for how long I want it.

I have gotten better at counting to 10 and back down.

If I keep this truck past its warranty period (which is the plan), I'm going to have a field day with forescan or whatever is the tuning software of the day.

 

[smurfslayer]

With traction and stability control 'disabled', command an upshift near redline that'd cause wheelspin, and the commanded upshift is denied, all power is removed for more than a full second, and subsequent upshift commands are also denied, leaving the driver looking the fool.

only 2h, or 4a/4h also?

Honestly, I think rev limiter, but what you’re describing sounds like it might be different.

 

[mezger]

I've seen it in 2h and 4a, haven't tried in 4h. Really feels like TCS is doing something. There were a couple times where I might have waited a little late to shift, but there have been a couple where I'm pretty certain I didn't. In all cases, once whatever this is happens, power is pulled and multiple upshift commands are then ignored. Haven't properly run the truck in dirt yet, this behavior could change when grip is less.

That said, i just re-read the OP, sounds like his doesn't reset in a couple seconds like mine does?

 

[smurfslayer]

If you run afoul of stability control, your power gets cut, cut, cut for what seems like an eternity. in the Raptor Assault first session you go into a gravel / cone course similar to an auto cross. I had truck number 9 sideways on run 1 in 2h and we lost power entirely - zero throttle response at all, it was probably less than a second but felt like several seconds. Not using paddles.

however, I’ve banged the rev limiter with the paddles.