Is this what it feels like when the shocks need to be rebuilt? Bouncy/jarring at higher speeds

970rap

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I have a 2018 Screw, stock, with 45K miles. Its my daily driver and has maybe 150 miles of off-road use, although I purchased it used and can't speak to the first 18K of life. Tires are measured at 34/32 PSI (TMPS reads 2 PSI higher, which appears to be normal from reading here), although this issue was worse when pressure was closer to 40.

I've had to do an increased amount of driving recently and noticed that the suspension feels different and the truck seems to handle on-road worse than previously. At speeds of 45ish+ potholes, cracks, series of cracks, and recessed manhole covers cause a pretty extreme bouncing, jarring, loss of control type of sensation that is worse as the speed increases. This is especially worse if it only happens on one side and/or if the wheel is turned somewhat. It's kind of hard to describe, but the road imperfections seem to be transferring a lot of energy to the truck rather than being absorbed, and it creates this feeling like the tires are losing traction or skipping along the pavement for a brief period, and makes me feel that for a brief moment the truck isn't under control. Then the suspension settles down, everything 'catches', and it's all back to normal.

Is this what it feels like when the shocks need to be rebuilt? Or possibly some sort of steering issue? Or maybe nothing at all and I am just imagining it?
 

GordoJay

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I have a 2018 Screw, stock, with 45K miles. Its my daily driver and has maybe 150 miles of off-road use, although I purchased it used and can't speak to the first 18K of life. Tires are measured at 34/32 PSI (TMPS reads 2 PSI higher, which appears to be normal from reading here), although this issue was worse when pressure was closer to 40.

I've had to do an increased amount of driving recently and noticed that the suspension feels different and the truck seems to handle on-road worse than previously. At speeds of 45ish+ potholes, cracks, series of cracks, and recessed manhole covers cause a pretty extreme bouncing, jarring, loss of control type of sensation that is worse as the speed increases. This is especially worse if it only happens on one side and/or if the wheel is turned somewhat. It's kind of hard to describe, but the road imperfections seem to be transferring a lot of energy to the truck rather than being absorbed, and it creates this feeling like the tires are losing traction or skipping along the pavement for a brief period, and makes me feel that for a brief moment the truck isn't under control. Then the suspension settles down, everything 'catches', and it's all back to normal.

Is this what it feels like when the shocks need to be rebuilt? Or possibly some sort of steering issue? Or maybe nothing at all and I am just imagining it?
I haven't worn the shocks out on my Raptor yet, but what you describe matches what I've felt on every other vehicle I've owned when the shocks wore out. I'd rebuild them.
 

2020FordRaptor

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I have a 2018 Screw, stock, with 45K miles. Its my daily driver and has maybe 150 miles of off-road use, although I purchased it used and can't speak to the first 18K of life. Tires are measured at 34/32 PSI (TMPS reads 2 PSI higher, which appears to be normal from reading here), although this issue was worse when pressure was closer to 40.

I've had to do an increased amount of driving recently and noticed that the suspension feels different and the truck seems to handle on-road worse than previously. At speeds of 45ish+ potholes, cracks, series of cracks, and recessed manhole covers cause a pretty extreme bouncing, jarring, loss of control type of sensation that is worse as the speed increases. This is especially worse if it only happens on one side and/or if the wheel is turned somewhat. It's kind of hard to describe, but the road imperfections seem to be transferring a lot of energy to the truck rather than being absorbed, and it creates this feeling like the tires are losing traction or skipping along the pavement for a brief period, and makes me feel that for a brief moment the truck isn't under control. Then the suspension settles down, everything 'catches', and it's all back to normal.

Is this what it feels like when the shocks need to be rebuilt? Or possibly some sort of steering issue? Or maybe nothing at all and I am just imagining it?
Sounds like they need to be rebuilt. I think Fox says to rebuild them every 50k miles, but I'm not 100% sure on that.
 

jamesstone1933

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50,000 on may Gen1. Bought new ones for rear had front rebuilt and installed which was $700. Million times better but then noticed my cab mounts were shot so replaced them and runs like a new truck.
 

smurfslayer

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Honestly, I disagree.
At speeds of 45ish+ potholes, cracks, series of cracks, and recessed manhole covers cause a pretty extreme bouncing, jarring, loss of control type of sensation that is worse as the speed increases. This is especially worse if it only happens on one side and/or if the wheel is turned somewhat. It's kind of hard to describe, but the road imperfections seem to be transferring a lot of energy to the truck rather than being absorbed, and it creates this feeling like the tires are losing traction or skipping along the pavement for a brief period, and makes me feel that for a brief moment the truck isn't under control. Then the suspension settles down, everything 'catches', and it's all back to normal.

I’ve had this since day one. It’s a live axle, leaf sprung truck with a fairly soft set of springs (are they stock?) You will notice this a lot more closer to the factory recommended pressures, less so towards 34/32 actual. Your observations are correct, the axle is deflecting ; there is probably a more articulate way to say this, but, the single side impact isn’t just sending the axle up, it’s also deflecting one side rearward slightly, which in turn pushes the other side forwards slightly. Positively locating a large, off road live axle assembly is no small feat. The “ideal” is to have the axle move in only one plane; up and down and not deflect or wrap, even under heavy throttle.

There are 2 available workarounds, traction bars (yes, old school traction bars) and a torque arm. Some advocate for Deaver springs here and I think that’s a band aid at best as the solution does nothing for positive location or suppression of wrapping.

If your shocks really are worn, you can prove by taking a small-ish leap or some washboard stuff. If you get suspension float, you need shocks rebuilt or replaced. If you bottom on a small jump, again, time for a rebuild.
 

BWorkman

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My truck felt like that after I bought it as well. The OG owner had driven it pretty hard in its first 19k, and the truck just seemed to bounce off of road imperfections instead of soaking them up. The rear shocks being dead increased the problem the stock rear leafs cause with wheel hop. Once I had them rebuilt, it was night and day difference. I had them rebuilt through Forged Off-road. Had them do stage 1 off-road valving which stiffened up the shocks just a bit. Made for a good handling on road feel, but more support off-road as well. And fox recommends rebuilding at 50k miles of street driven. So for $800 to do a basic rebuild plus $120 for stage 1, it was worth it for me. As for what smurfslayer said about the axle wrap, I did a set of deaver springs and that took care of about 90% of that. Only on really bad bumps while turning Will I get a little bit of axle wrap still (and traction bars will be in my future for stopping that extra 10%).
 

robl3577

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Honestly, I disagree.


I’ve had this since day one. It’s a live axle, leaf sprung truck with a fairly soft set of springs (are they stock?) You will notice this a lot more closer to the factory recommended pressures, less so towards 34/32 actual. Your observations are correct, the axle is deflecting ; there is probably a more articulate way to say this, but, the single side impact isn’t just sending the axle up, it’s also deflecting one side rearward slightly, which in turn pushes the other side forwards slightly. Positively locating a large, off road live axle assembly is no small feat. The “ideal” is to have the axle move in only one plane; up and down and not deflect or wrap, even under heavy throttle.

There are 2 available workarounds, traction bars (yes, old school traction bars) and a torque arm. Some advocate for Deaver springs here and I think that’s a band aid at best as the solution does nothing for positive location or suppression of wrapping.

If your shocks really are worn, you can prove by taking a small-ish leap or some washboard stuff. If you get suspension float, you need shocks rebuilt or replaced. If you bottom on a small jump, again, time for a rebuild.
And I have to disagree with this. My truck rides like a dream at 52,000 miles(2019). You shouldn't have to modify the suspension to make it ride well. He also noted that the ride is worse now than it was previously. Something has worn out. First thing I would do is check bushings, then look to rebuilding shocks. Maybe the previous owner did beat it up pretty good or you've just hit that point of needing some work.
 
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970rap

970rap

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Thanks for all the feedback and perspectives. It sounds like it would be a good idea to get them rebuilt. Any suggestions about having the rebuilt shocks installed (I won't be doing this myself), such as dealership, an off-road shop, etc? Any idea what a reasonable cost is?
 

dellio19

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I went with shocks by hammer based on reviews and testimonies from others- Brian is super friendly and knowledgeable and answered all my questions. He had the shocks in the mail same day and they’ll be delivered tomorrow.

I went with an off-road shop. Charging me $300 for install plus alignment. I’m also getting the eibach springs installed at the same time since I’ll only need to pay for the labor once. It’s justified, right? Haha
 

BWorkman

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Thanks for all the feedback and perspectives. It sounds like it would be a good idea to get them rebuilt. Any suggestions about having the rebuilt shocks installed (I won't be doing this myself), such as dealership, an off-road shop, etc? Any idea what a reasonable cost is?
Depends on where you are located, but I know Forged Off-road does removal, rebuild, and replacement. I think Texas Shock Works does this as well. Rebuilds are about $800 for basic rebuild, and about $300-$400 for the removal/install if done by them.
 
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