GEN 2 Is it possible to rearrage/reorder your upfitter switches?

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CDN_Raptor

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Does anyone know if the order of the upfitter switches can be reordered or rearranged in regards to wiring and it's rating? I.E. say you want to move the 15 amp wiring to AUX 6 instead of having it at AUX 1.

I'm not sure if the switches have their own individual harness connector or if it's in cluster or if you can just pop the pins out and move them around.
 

k9driver

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You could consider installing an LVJ motor sports relay panel. Then you don’t need to worry about the amperage of the upfitter switches since they are simply triggering the relays. You can arrange the upfitter switches to the relay panel however you like.
 

Booth9999

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You could consider installing an LVJ motor sports relay panel. Then you don’t need to worry about the amperage of the upfitter switches since they are simply triggering the relays. You can arrange the upfitter switches to the relay panel however you like.
This is what I did, a very awesome product. Also it is nice that if you have a issue with a light it’s all right in the panel, great for troubleshooting.
 

OriginalToken

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You could consider installing an LVJ motor sports relay panel. Then you don’t need to worry about the amperage of the upfitter switches since they are simply triggering the relays. You can arrange the upfitter switches to the relay panel however you like.

I did not do the LVJ thing, but I did the same thing by building my own relay box. When I look at the wiring supplied with the upfitter switches, and look at the supposed Amp ratings, I don't feel comfortable running that power through the supplied wiring. So I just use the switches to run my own relays, and all is good.

T!
 

MO to CA

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I did not do the LVJ thing, but I did the same thing by building my own relay box. When I look at the wiring supplied with the upfitter switches, and look at the supposed Amp ratings, I don't feel comfortable running that power through the supplied wiring. So I just use the switches to run my own relays, and all is good.

T!

You’re probably right. Ford doesn’t know what wire gauge to use with what amperage rating. Best to go to an overly complicated relay box.

Kidding aside, using a relay box is not wrong, but it does add a lot complexity that then results in more opportunity for failure.

If someone wants to rearrange the upfitters to match the location for each amp rating, they would need to open up the panel behind the switches themselves and rearrange the wires that plug into the switches. You would have to move both wires for each switch.
 

Chris S

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I agree Ford has too much invested to put undersize wiring. That said, it is also likey the switches themselves are rated differently. With that said just moving the wires around is potentially a risky move and could easily cause smoke or perhaps a fire. The relay panel either homemade or vendor acquired, is the only safe way to move the switches around. Just my $.02 worth.
 

OriginalToken

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You’re probably right. Ford doesn’t know what wire gauge to use with what amperage rating. Best to go to an overly complicated relay box.

Kidding aside, using a relay box is not wrong, but it does add a lot complexity that then results in more opportunity for failure.

I did not say Ford did not know what wire gauge to use, I said I was uncomfortable running the power I might need to use through the supplied wiring.

For 2018 (and I assume 2017 to 2020) Aux 1 and 2 are 17 awg multistrand , 4 and 5 are 20 awg multistrand, 5 and 6 are 22 awg multistrand. Aux 1 and 2 are rated at 15 Amps, 3 and 4 are 10 Amps, and 5 and 6 are 5 Amps.

That means that the potentially 15 Amps of Aux 1 and 2 pass through several feet of 17 gauge wire, even if you go to larger wire from the firewall out, the earliest you can connect to the factory wire. Call it about 10 feet total from the control relays to the firewall. I do not know if the entire wire run is 17, 20, and 22 awg, however all of it I can see is.

At 12 VDC and 15 Amps the potential voltage drop in 10 feet of 17 awg copper multistrand wire is around 12%, or up to 1.5 VDC. If the system is at 12 VDC and you need the full 15 Amps then there might be only 10.5 VDC at the end of the Aux 1 or 2 wires. Yeah, sure, I know that most of the time the supply voltage will be more than 12 VDC, up to about 13.8 (even higher is seen pretty regularly while the vehicle is running and charging) VDC. At 13.8 VDC and 15 Amps of draw the voltage drop in 17 awg multistrand copper wire will be around 11% or a bit more, or about the same 1.5 VDC, leaving maybe as little as 12.3 VDC at the firewall to be used. And then add the voltage drop of whatever wire you run from the firewall to the load. Some things will work fine on that, others not so much.

The wiring used by Ford is not unsafe, but it is far from optimal for some high current loads. For anything more than a few Amps I would not (and do not) use the Upfitter switches directly applying energy to the device I want to turn on or off. Sure, for my radar detector or a police scanner it is fine, a couple of amps max so no big deal. But when I need to draw 10+ Amps the Upfitters and associated wiring are just going to drop too much voltage in the line for some things to function properly. Even if the Ford factory relays and wires can safely handle it.

So for everything attached to Aux 1 to 4, all the heavier current draw items, I use the Aux output to control a relay that I install. And then properly sized wire, to match the required current and wire run length, is used from my relay box to the load. The light current loads I have on Aux 5 and 6 are perfectly fine on the factory wire and no relays. The measured voltage drop (from the Aux power source to the device under power) of my 1 Amp load (Uniden BCD536HP scanner) that is on Aux 5 is right at 1 Volt, or around a nominal 12 VDC to the device when it is turned on. This total run is the Ford wiring up to the the firewall and back inside, and my upsized 16 awg wire from the inside of the firewall to the console mounted radio. Remember that at 5 Amps it would have about 5 times that much drop and would be well under 10 VDC to the load.

Besides which, relays allow me to do things with the source voltage that the simple Aux switches do not, for example, selecting Aux 1 drives my light bar to the down position, while Aux 2 drives it to the up position (and I have fail safed it, accidentally selecting both will drive the light bar down, but not harm anything). The Aux switches alone could not do that.

T!

(edited after posting for spelling, apparently I can't)
(second edit, the original wire sizes I used were wrong, grabbed from a post on these forums, the correct wire sizes are documented in the manual and I corrected my calculations based on those sizes)
 
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Ski4Ever

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it is also likey the switches themselves are rated differently.
Can anyone confirm (through part numbers, etc) that Ford did, indeed, use different switches for the 3 different current ratings? My initial thought is that they wouldn't bother with that, and that all the switches would be the same, but I could be wrong.
 

Booth9999

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Can anyone confirm (through part numbers, etc) that Ford did, indeed, use different switches for the 3 different current ratings? My initial thought is that they wouldn't bother with that, and that all the switches would be the same, but I could be wrong.
The switches are the same, the wire gage going to each switch is different limiting the current load.
 

Ski4Ever

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The switches are the same, the wire gage going to each switch is different limiting the current load.
Yes, I knew the wiring was different, but wasn't sure if anyone had confirmed that based off of what @Chris S had said about the different ratings in the switches themselves.
 
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