Is fuse 27 swap really necessary?

[The Car Stereo Company]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I heard enough of you reporting high mileage failures so the “preventive maintenance” part of me is over ruling the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” part of me. I just wish we knew why some of these fail so soon and others last a long time before failure. I’m now committed to invading my fuse junction box for this repair but.....I wonder if there are some folks out there who never did the fix and are still ok. If so, why do some fail quickly and others don’t? This inquiring mind wants to know!

why is it one day you lose $1000 at the casino but the next day you win it back? its pretty much luck. im guessing that the amperage is so close to the failure rate, that a surge like starting the truck can cause the amperage to spike enough to blow the fuse

 

[Deleted member 12951]

I didn’t need a reason not to do it. I did mine 4 years ago when the kit first came out with no symptoms. I was not going to be caught off guard because it would of happened at the worst possible time, it would just be my luck. And if I was off-roading and the truck dies and possible steering wheel locks, I might not be here to talk about it.

The Baja trips I’ve been on, the new requirement now is fuse 27 has to be done.

 

[1BAD454SSv2]

My 2010 does not have relocation kit installed ,I have it on hand. To many other projects going on. After this became a known problem back in the day, every oil change i would open and inspect fuse as well as push down on all the fuses and relays , you would be surprised how much slight movement you would get pushing down. Like the fuse moved up a hair over time ,tiny amount . A few years ago noticed fuse 27 discoloring , so i cleaned contacts , i have thin tiny file set touched up the contacts and installed new fuse, everything still looks fine today 92500 miles . I think offroading and vibration the fuses loosen up and start building heat . I have a whipple so i'm sure fuel pump maxes out on amperage quite a bit. Tool Kit i have link below.

https://www.grainger.com/product/IPA-Electrical-Terminal-Maintenance-19RE94?

 

[ogdobber]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I heard enough of you reporting high mileage failures so the “preventive maintenance” part of me is over ruling the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” part of me. I just wish we knew why some of these fail so soon and others last a long time before failure. I’m now committed to invading my fuse junction box for this repair but.....I wonder if there are some folks out there who never did the fix and are still ok. If so, why do some fail quickly and others don’t? This inquiring mind wants to know!

Mine went on my 2011 at 330,000. So with that being said most might never get there[emoji23]


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[MrSkunks]

111k miles and mine just went. Luckily it happened at home and it easily came out in one piece. Spare in the glove box. My office is 3 miles away, so I do very short drives and it still happened. Fuse was checked 5-6 months ago.

I’ll be relocating it as soon as the kit arrives. Nothing like being stuck on the side of the road in Florida heat waiting for a tow.

 

[B E N]

Known problem on a truck that is between 6 and 10 years old. It takes a $20 kit and 30 minutes to repair, I consider that a bargain compared to being put on the side of the road in a convenient place, let alone being 50-60 miles from civilization in the desert with no cell service. Why would you not?

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Damn, mines 10 years old, guess I should get the kit.

 

[fitzmotor]

So my answer is YES do it, my truck had 125k on it, I had heard about the fuse thing and thought "it made it this far" I pulled and looked at the fuse, it looked fine.
So I order the kit, 2 months later I finally get around to installing it, it was ready to fail, the plastic was melted on the one terminal of the fuse in the box.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

scrap

 

[EricM]

No, it's not "necessary". I did it, but I don't think I really needed to. Everything looked perfect at 60K, and it has been used for truck things. It's not a pretty fix, the way the wires are configured under he box is just a mess to start with and the "fix" makes it worse.

It's not long drives vs not- it's simply full pump load and time. If you are towing 8000 lbs in the Rockies- you are gonna burn it out. If you drive flat roads to the grocery store, there won't be any issues, even if it's a 5 hr drive to the store. You need to put enough current through the terminal to heat the terminal enough that the temperature increase then further increases the resistance, etc. More resistance, more heat. More heat, more resistance. Repeat until the metal melts into the plastic and you no longer have a circuit.