Intro and some basic questions '13 SVT

[MrGable27]

Nice truck, as far as what most people will recommend (myself included):

-17” or 18” wheels (method, race line, and icon are very popular)

-rebuild the stock Fox’s (Forged Offroad or directly through Fox), or replace with new ones off of Rockauto

-Saudi cooler. $98 and it lowers trans temps significantly

-change your spark plugs and fluids if they haven’t been done recently

Do these things and the truck will do another 100k with no problems.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

Hey all... thanks a million for the input... I've already used some of your collective advice. I picked up a set of Fuel D674 18x9 wheels with a +22mm offset, so it shouldn't be too much of a roller skate, but yet they're not tucked in so tight that they'd make a UPS truck proud... HA. For the tires, I went - as suggested - with the Falken Wildpeak's sized at 235/65/18. I've always been accustomed to owning a full set of summer wheels/tires as well as a full winter set. The Falken's were a bit of a surprise having the winter rating... also noticed that the Sumitomo Encounter's are rated for severe winter, but I'm not a Sumi fan. Kinda nice... no need for 2 complete sets of everything... save a few bucks.

Exhaust - Kinda surprised that there's positive feedback on the OE exhaust. Not big plumbing for 6.2 liters. I would think that a "true dual" exhaust of at least 2.5" plumbing and a good set of headers would make quite a significant difference..? I've never owned a V* that didn't like a WFO exhaust. I'll keep thinking on that one... but won't be buying something that does the same 2 into 1 thing... Borla's and such. Again... looking for results, not noise - although I get the fascination... an uncorked V8 is music, just not what I'm after in this case.

Intake - The ole "cold air intake" isn't a ploy that I fall for... I've personally tested too many of them right on the dyno... no gains whatsoever... ever. I'm not sure how they keep selling those things... maybe that extra bit of V8 intake whoooosh makes folks happy-in-pants, but it's not on my list. I'm strictly a function guy... anything I do needs to pay off in meaningful/concrete numbers.

Suspension's gonna be the biggie. I've already put 2k miles on it in its first week, so I already do know that I don't like it. The Hyabusa guy (oh yeah, I'm an HP4 comp guy myself) mentioned getting the OE Fox units rebuilt. You guys must have some "known good" vendors out there that you could recommend for the suspension conversation, I'd imagine. I'd really appreciate if you guys could throw me a name or 2 of companies worth talking to. This is probably the most important part of the truck's mods, for my intended use.

Finally, great point on the harness... I had actually noticed that when I was cleaning it the first time, and thought it looked quite vulnerable. If you know if any good links about fixes for that (or "fuse 27) please throw them at me. In fact, any of those common points of failure that you guys have BTDT experience with, please advise. This truck will be getting my full attention until I've got her as bulletproof as I can manage.

Thanks again... appreciate the help and the welcome notes! Seems like a good crew here.
Dave

where are you located? as far as suspension setups, theres a lot of options, but we need to know what terrain you are driving and where you are to make a local recommendation. lots of shops in socal and arizona. dont know if you want to ship your truck there, or buy parts and put them on yourself. front suspension is a little less complicated than the rear. the rear you need to deal with bed weight from recovery gear, bed rack, or whatever you have back there on an all time basis. this will affect your spring purchase. since i carry so much weight in the bed, i have a customized spring setup.

also read the tire size..... 235 seems a bit narrow. the oem tire size is a 315/70/17.

 

[djdawson2]

Thanks again, guys...

Suspension - I'll look into both Deavers and Hammer... sounds like a good starting point. I sorta figured there'd be some company(s) that actually races these things that does suspension stuff.

Exhaust - simple - it needs to *work*, and that should mean 20-35 on the dyno. I want the noise level to be rather tame... don't mind if it howels a bit when hammered, but I don't want constant noise... I'll save that for my ole '69 Camaro, lol. There should be good results possible, without excessive noise. Again... with that 6.2, I understand the desire for some folks - that engine sounds great uncorked... but I gotta live with this thing for long long long durations at speed. Can't have too much noise, and def no drone.

Thanks!

 

[Pacific Wheel]

morning..........


wheela and tires......being that you say you are in the frozen lands of canada, i would probably go with some snow rated at tires. im not a fan of the ko2. maybe the falken wildpeak at3w? @Pacific Wheel

suspension..... you need to drive it first and see how it feels. then you can upgrade what you feel is right for you. throwing a bunch of suspension on it without driving it doesnt give you the info you need to make an educated purchase and spend your money wisely. as stated, a bump stop kit is definitely one you can add asap if you want. it gives you the added protection in case you do bottom out your suspension.

one thing that hasnt been mentioned recently is the harness relocation on the drivers side. gotta get that harness above the frame. that will leave you dead in the water if you smash that thing up. fuse 27 is a must as well. theres a few more must do things, but im slightly intoxicated right now and cant think of them at the moment

Sorry for the delayed response. I haven't been on FRF for a few days. The Falkens are phenomenal. They run big. Super deep tread for AT. Great in the hard pack, good in the deep stuff and they wear like.... Well I don't think mine will ever wear out. They're gonna rot before they wear out lol. I have about 35k on them, 5 years and they're still in between 9 & 10/32's.

Only downsides are the weight and I recommend a road force/ride match balance.

 

[PorterW1111]

Thanks again, guys...

Suspension - I'll look into both Deavers and Hammer... sounds like a good starting point. I sorta figured there'd be some company(s) that actually races these things that does suspension stuff.

Exhaust - simple - it needs to *work*, and that should mean 20-35 on the dyno. I want the noise level to be rather tame... don't mind if it howels a bit when hammered, but I don't want constant noise... I'll save that for my ole '69 Camaro, lol. There should be good results possible, without excessive noise. Again... with that 6.2, I understand the desire for some folks - that engine sounds great uncorked... but I gotta live with this thing for long long long durations at speed. Can't have too much noise, and def no drone.

Thanks!

RPG, SVC, KHC, Forged Off-road, Battle Born Off-road, Texas motorworksEvil Manufacturing, Foutz Motorsports, Blitzkrieg Motorsports, Kibbitech, Addictive Desert Designs, Fiberwerx, Mcniel...

All great companies that offer mild to wild parts and builds for Raptors. The first 3 will get you most of what you could ever need.
You mentioned money isn’t the concern but I’ll say this, what you are willing to spend will determine what I would recommend for suspension setup. Very easily could go from 5k to 50k with a click of a button.

 

[MFNG]

Hey all... thanks a million for the input... I've already used some of your collective advice. I picked up a set of Fuel D674 18x9 wheels with a +22mm offset, so it shouldn't be too much of a roller skate, but yet they're not tucked in so tight that they'd make a UPS truck proud... HA. For the tires, I went - as suggested - with the Falken Wildpeak's sized at 235/65/18. I've always been accustomed to owning a full set of summer wheels/tires as well as a full winter set. The Falken's were a bit of a surprise having the winter rating... also noticed that the Sumitomo Encounter's are rated for severe winter, but I'm not a Sumi fan. Kinda nice... no need for 2 complete sets of everything... save a few bucks.

Exhaust - Kinda surprised that there's positive feedback on the OE exhaust. Not big plumbing for 6.2 liters. I would think that a "true dual" exhaust of at least 2.5" plumbing and a good set of headers would make quite a significant difference..? I've never owned a V* that didn't like a WFO exhaust. I'll keep thinking on that one... but won't be buying something that does the same 2 into 1 thing... Borla's and such. Again... looking for results, not noise - although I get the fascination... an uncorked V8 is music, just not what I'm after in this case.

Intake - The ole "cold air intake" isn't a ploy that I fall for... I've personally tested too many of them right on the dyno... no gains whatsoever... ever. I'm not sure how they keep selling those things... maybe that extra bit of V8 intake whoooosh makes folks happy-in-pants, but it's not on my list. I'm strictly a function guy... anything I do needs to pay off in meaningful/concrete numbers.

Suspension's gonna be the biggie. I've already put 2k miles on it in its first week, so I already do know that I don't like it. The Hyabusa guy (oh yeah, I'm an HP4 comp guy myself) mentioned getting the OE Fox units rebuilt. You guys must have some "known good" vendors out there that you could recommend for the suspension conversation, I'd imagine. I'd really appreciate if you guys could throw me a name or 2 of companies worth talking to. This is probably the most important part of the truck's mods, for my intended use.

Finally, great point on the harness... I had actually noticed that when I was cleaning it the first time, and thought it looked quite vulnerable. If you know if any good links about fixes for that (or "fuse 27) please throw them at me. In fact, any of those common points of failure that you guys have BTDT experience with, please advise. This truck will be getting my full attention until I've got her as bulletproof as I can manage.

Thanks again... appreciate the help and the welcome notes! Seems like a good crew here.
Dave

I got a set of 3.0 rear take-offs from a Gen 2 and have to say that this is the only way I will go forward after having 2.5 rebuilds done.

The difference in ride is astounding. Highly recommend.
I’ve heard good and bad about many rebuild vendors here, but for my money I’d buy new, or get fresh take-offs. Rebuilds for me didn’t last long (rears at least) and the time and effort didn’t really match up to the price either. Just my 2¢.