NOLA
Full Access Member
Tutorial on installing sound deadener in the Raptor. This definitely helps quiet down road noise and even more loud exhaust. You positively will not believe the difference it makes. I was skeptical and did just the back wall first and drove around for a few days and the "dead" sound behind me convinced me to do the doors. This is WELL worth the money and time to spend on it. Its completely different than before.
So, here are some pics to help you along if you decide to add some interior sound deadener. I chose the Stinger Roadkill Expert Damping Material. I used two types of the kit, the "door kit", and the "bulk pack." I only chose the Stinger because it was available locally at a stereo shop. After needing more (explained later), I got it from Amazon with second day shipping and finished it up.
Expect the door kit to run you about 36 bucks a kit, and expect the bulk kit to run you about 86 bucks a kit.
I sound deadened two areas, the rear wall, and all four doors on my 2014 SCREW. Below are pictures of both areas before and after. Following are a few of my do's and dont's.
DO:
1. Wear gloves !, you will curse the day you ignore me on this one. So initially I thought I was an incompetent baboon randomly cutting my fingertips with my razor knife. Nope, its the edges of the aluminum backer that is like a scalpel on your fingertips, and yes, you will bleed on everything. So either wear gloves, or have 4X4's and tape to wrap your fingers.
2. Buy the roller/knife combo kit Stinger sells (Available on Amazon). You WILL HAVE TO roll the edges of the deadener and also roll very hard all of the other areas to ensure it sticks to the metal, and other pieces if you overlap.
3. Mark your edges of the door panels with blue painters tape. Its really nice to just put a piece of painters tape on the hinge and striker sides of the black plastic door panels so when the panel is off you can see your lateral limits for applying the sound deadener.
4. Use your 600 dollar smart phone for something other than selfies and take pics of the before pictures so you know where everything is. Example, after removing the door panel take a pic of the stock plastic sheet. NOTE all the holes in the sheet that the door panel puts its little "hooks" thru, so you can cut the same holes in the deadener. Example, after taking off the stock plastic sheet take a pic of the door so you can remember where the electrical wires poke thru and screwholes that the door panel mount to. (Makes more sense later on in this)
DON'T
1. Dont skimp and just apply deadener over everything. Stop being a lazy *** and take a few more minutes to get a screwdriver and remove the electric slide window motor and cable from the back wall when you are doing the back wall. Also, take a few minutes to remove the electrical wires screwed to the doors when you do them. I didn't see a need to remove the speakers and just cut around them as I got to them.
So, back wall first:
Step one, fold the back seats down. There are numerous videos on YouTube on how to get them down. Basically, fold the seats up, it makes the upper seat tilt to give you room. Get a flashlight and something with a hook on it, or a loop of paracord, and there is a small lever you pull up on and it releases the seat, do this on both sides. Take note that the other end of the rod (see pic) moves up and down in the track. Make sure you realign it so the seat locks back when you are done. Strangely mine had a small yellow mark on the inside of it that I lined the rod back up in and my seat clicked the first time.
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After you get the seats down, the carpet cover for the back wall is showing. On the top of the carpet are several of those plastic fasteners with the ridged posts on them and the flat tops, just pull them firmly out and with a little wiggling they eventually come out and can be reused. On the bottom there are a couple more. After you remove them, pull the carpet liner up and slide it out the door. It will have to be pulled in a bit on the bottom sides because they go under the vertical pillar panels.
I didn't take a pic of the bare wall, but YOU SHOULD to know where stuff goes back to. So get some tools and remove the window motor in the middle, three bolts, the three child seat straps at the top with one both each, pop the wiring connector off on the left. Thats all the disassembly you will have to do.
It took me the entire bulk pack to cover the back wall. I used about six sheets to do it. I used full sheets to cover the big areas then cut down to size other areas. Here is a good idea to do it. Before you put a sheet on lay it against the wall and decide basically where you want it. I used them lengthwise and make it terminate at the bottom exactly. Peel back the brown paper to expose a few inches of the sticky stuff, and start at the top. Let it stick up there and hang down and gravity helps you. Roll the top really hard and just continue down. Pull the brown paper off the back straight down as you go. Pull the paper, roll really hard into all the groves and ridges. Pull more paper and continue all the way to the bottom. Go back and smooth and roll even harder on all the spots. Its actually easy once you get started and over the apprehension that it will be a pain in the ass. Its not. When you are done all the major areas, cut the sheets into sized you need for the small stuff and try to overlap the big sheets. I can give you a hint: Do a two large sheets from the left and two from the right. That will cover the bulk of the sides of the wall. On the first two sheets cut out the spots for the flap vents, don't cover them up, they are there for a reason. Remember on the left side the little electrical connector, as you are laying the first sheet down from the top, make a little X hole with your knife there so you can pop the connector back in the wall. Don't forget to do the same for the three bolt holes for the electrical motor as you work to the middle.
Here is the result:
After you are done, bolt back the window motor, the child safety restraints (Stop thinking you can skip this step. One day you will sell the truck and murphy says the next owner will have kids and you didn't help them), then put the electrical connection back in the little hole u made.
My next post will be the doors.
NOLA.
So, here are some pics to help you along if you decide to add some interior sound deadener. I chose the Stinger Roadkill Expert Damping Material. I used two types of the kit, the "door kit", and the "bulk pack." I only chose the Stinger because it was available locally at a stereo shop. After needing more (explained later), I got it from Amazon with second day shipping and finished it up.
Expect the door kit to run you about 36 bucks a kit, and expect the bulk kit to run you about 86 bucks a kit.
I sound deadened two areas, the rear wall, and all four doors on my 2014 SCREW. Below are pictures of both areas before and after. Following are a few of my do's and dont's.
DO:
1. Wear gloves !, you will curse the day you ignore me on this one. So initially I thought I was an incompetent baboon randomly cutting my fingertips with my razor knife. Nope, its the edges of the aluminum backer that is like a scalpel on your fingertips, and yes, you will bleed on everything. So either wear gloves, or have 4X4's and tape to wrap your fingers.
2. Buy the roller/knife combo kit Stinger sells (Available on Amazon). You WILL HAVE TO roll the edges of the deadener and also roll very hard all of the other areas to ensure it sticks to the metal, and other pieces if you overlap.
3. Mark your edges of the door panels with blue painters tape. Its really nice to just put a piece of painters tape on the hinge and striker sides of the black plastic door panels so when the panel is off you can see your lateral limits for applying the sound deadener.
4. Use your 600 dollar smart phone for something other than selfies and take pics of the before pictures so you know where everything is. Example, after removing the door panel take a pic of the stock plastic sheet. NOTE all the holes in the sheet that the door panel puts its little "hooks" thru, so you can cut the same holes in the deadener. Example, after taking off the stock plastic sheet take a pic of the door so you can remember where the electrical wires poke thru and screwholes that the door panel mount to. (Makes more sense later on in this)
DON'T
1. Dont skimp and just apply deadener over everything. Stop being a lazy *** and take a few more minutes to get a screwdriver and remove the electric slide window motor and cable from the back wall when you are doing the back wall. Also, take a few minutes to remove the electrical wires screwed to the doors when you do them. I didn't see a need to remove the speakers and just cut around them as I got to them.
So, back wall first:
Step one, fold the back seats down. There are numerous videos on YouTube on how to get them down. Basically, fold the seats up, it makes the upper seat tilt to give you room. Get a flashlight and something with a hook on it, or a loop of paracord, and there is a small lever you pull up on and it releases the seat, do this on both sides. Take note that the other end of the rod (see pic) moves up and down in the track. Make sure you realign it so the seat locks back when you are done. Strangely mine had a small yellow mark on the inside of it that I lined the rod back up in and my seat clicked the first time.
After you get the seats down, the carpet cover for the back wall is showing. On the top of the carpet are several of those plastic fasteners with the ridged posts on them and the flat tops, just pull them firmly out and with a little wiggling they eventually come out and can be reused. On the bottom there are a couple more. After you remove them, pull the carpet liner up and slide it out the door. It will have to be pulled in a bit on the bottom sides because they go under the vertical pillar panels.
I didn't take a pic of the bare wall, but YOU SHOULD to know where stuff goes back to. So get some tools and remove the window motor in the middle, three bolts, the three child seat straps at the top with one both each, pop the wiring connector off on the left. Thats all the disassembly you will have to do.
It took me the entire bulk pack to cover the back wall. I used about six sheets to do it. I used full sheets to cover the big areas then cut down to size other areas. Here is a good idea to do it. Before you put a sheet on lay it against the wall and decide basically where you want it. I used them lengthwise and make it terminate at the bottom exactly. Peel back the brown paper to expose a few inches of the sticky stuff, and start at the top. Let it stick up there and hang down and gravity helps you. Roll the top really hard and just continue down. Pull the brown paper off the back straight down as you go. Pull the paper, roll really hard into all the groves and ridges. Pull more paper and continue all the way to the bottom. Go back and smooth and roll even harder on all the spots. Its actually easy once you get started and over the apprehension that it will be a pain in the ass. Its not. When you are done all the major areas, cut the sheets into sized you need for the small stuff and try to overlap the big sheets. I can give you a hint: Do a two large sheets from the left and two from the right. That will cover the bulk of the sides of the wall. On the first two sheets cut out the spots for the flap vents, don't cover them up, they are there for a reason. Remember on the left side the little electrical connector, as you are laying the first sheet down from the top, make a little X hole with your knife there so you can pop the connector back in the wall. Don't forget to do the same for the three bolt holes for the electrical motor as you work to the middle.
Here is the result:
After you are done, bolt back the window motor, the child safety restraints (Stop thinking you can skip this step. One day you will sell the truck and murphy says the next owner will have kids and you didn't help them), then put the electrical connection back in the little hole u made.
My next post will be the doors.
NOLA.
