Installed LMI Seat Relo 2" Straight Ahead

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Torchy

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Hey guys,

Not much info out on this one so thought I'd add some input. Overall not that bad and seems to be easier than the 2" lift version. Instructions are ok but there's not really pics.

Here is the kit as it comes to you. 7 are the same and the shorty is for seatbelt. Put all studs in brackets before you start. They all orient the same which is hole towards the back and slot facing the windshield. Also these have a lil s bend in them. They all are the with slot raised towards the roof. So yes there is a 1/4-3/8 lift you get out if this kit too.
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Start by unbolting the factory B&O sub. Easy 3 bolts. Next up there are 4 large body stubs with nuts behind the seat. Unbolt all 4. Next up there are 4 black bolts in front of the seat. You can't miss them. I didn't get a pic of that but go ahead and take them all out.
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If you have a second person that'd help but not necessary, lift the whole seat up and over the rear studs and move the seat forward 2-3 inches. I did not remove the whole seats from the truck. Not necessary at all. If you have B&O, be careful of the wire attached to back of seat. The seat will want to roll forward a lot putting tension on that wire. I used a rolled up towel under the front middle of the seat to keep it rolled back and relieve some tension off that wire.
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Next bolt down the rear relo backets. One of the tricky parts! On the driver back corner stud and passenger back corner stud you have to do extra work! So under the carpet is a wire, the bracket will smash that wire. On drivers side, I cut the carpet back to reveal a wire hold down tree. You want to cut a tab off that hold down tree and push the wire down the slope. Also cutting the carpet is no biggie, It's a small portion and gets covered up by the bracket anyway.
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On passenger side you don't have to cut carpet but I pulled it back revealed the tree, cut circiled part off completely to allow the wire to move down the slope too.
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Pro tip: Drill this seatbelt mount out to a perfect 1/2 inch. You'll thank me later. After all that go ahead and torque them and don't leave loose. Orient them precisely straight ahead of factory studs.
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Next make sure and torque all front brackets. No drama with them. After remove all the nuts from the lmi studs, All studs shouldn't go anywhere because their basically touching the body. Lift seat up and over all the studs. Set down on studs and torque all 8 nuts down. Should look like this.
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Last is the rear brackets. Yeah these are both like a Japanese puzzle. I'll let you figure out how to bolt down the drivers side but know that the driver mount bolts to back of seat and passenger mount bolts to rear wall. Good luck getting a torx bit in there and bolting it down. I used a bit from nut driver with a 1/4 wrench turning 2 faces at a time. Finished looks like this for driver.
4-B77456-C-F00-F-4730-83-E9-DB14-B37-C4-B89.jpg


On passenger, there is a bolt with a welded on half moon shaped washer. It goes inside the rear wall with the threads facing the front windshield and washer side closest to tailgate. You have to hold it in there, put bracket through exposed threads, start nut onto threads then leave loose. Then take the factory bolt from the factory bracket off bracket (goodluck getting the safety washer off that btw:) and start the factory bolt in the factory threaded hole on rear wall. Yes the lmi bracket will secure to back wall with 2 bolts unlike factory using 1. Once their both started torque down the bottom bolt (factory one) first to allow the threads to come through on top to keep top stud from rotating.
Also I had to drill out the factory bracket hole one size larger to allow the slightly bigger lmi bolt to fit through. Once relo wall bracket is torqued, bolting the factory bracket to it is easy. Finished should look like this.
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Then your all done! I am happy to report that the truck has no new squeaks or weird noises at all! Awesome!
 
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Torchy

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Thanks for posting. Does the seat bottom still meet the same on top of the plastic partition that goes across the full width of the seat underneath?

Do these help? The top line when folded up is still straight. The whole storage below is all moved forward so you get more storage at the cost of less floor space.

The kit is really 2 inches at top of seat and 3 inches at bottom.

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Oldfart

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Nice, thanks for that. I wasn't thinking about the whole storage area moving forward as a unit with the seat. So it looks like that all stays the same. Looks like the kit is pretty well thought out.
 

Oldfart

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Thanks for this thread @Torchy, I installed the "Straight Ahead" kit today. They changed a few things that aren't even in their directions. All brackets are the same length now, the seat belt one is the same length now.

This is a nice kit, well made, heavy duty materials, does what it's supposed to do, which is give you a little room behind the rear seat.

A few tips I learned if someone else is going to do this kit. You had mentioned that you had trouble tightening the extension box on the drivers side. Get a set of Torx screwdrivers instead of using just the bits. The shaft of the driver is the same size as the T25 bit so it slips right through the hole in the extension box. Makes it easy to tighten.

FOR SURE move the wires under the carpet on both outboard sides just in front of the seat mounting bolts. I'm not sure what they are for, but if you don't move them, those wires will get crushed for sure. They are held in place with plastic wire holders that plug into the floor. I popped them out and put Second Skin over the holes and used a strip of same to hold the wires in place.

Decide how much travel you want before you start tightening the extensions down. The new carriage bolts are in a slot that can give you between 2 inches and 3.25 inches ahead. Once you tighten the seat mount bolts, the new carriage bolts are too tight against the floor to move any more. I went with the minimum move, so you just move all the bolts full rearward in the slots. I would suggest either full front or minimum front so you can be consistent with your bolt placement without driving yourself nuts.

The last thing I learned almost bit me in the ass. If you are doing this by yourself, which I did, be careful of the female end of the seatbelt that sticks up through the middle of the longer rear seat section. When you are placing the seat back in place keep an eye on it's angle. You are already trying to look at 10 things at once to line everything up, I didn't notice, or think of, the seat belt. It had pivoted down and was stuck against the plastic panel that runs across under the rear seat. I pushed the seat into place and didn't take notice until I was ready to start tightening everything down. I definitely had a WTF moment when I noticed the bow in that panel. I'm surprised it didn't break it. That's the seat belt in the picture. Just a bit of a bow in it!! Thankfully it's pretty flexible.

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smurfslayer

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Thanks for this thread Torchy, I installed the "Straight Ahead" kit today. They changed a few things that aren't even in their directions. All brackets are the same length now, the seat belt one is the same length now.

This is a nice kit, well made, heavy duty materials, does what it's supposed to do, which is give you a little room behind the rear seat.

A few tips I learned if someone else is going to do this kit. You had mentioned that you had trouble tightening the extension box on the drivers side. Get a set of Torx screwdrivers instead of using just the bits. The shaft of the driver is the same size as the T25 bit so it slips right through the hole in the extension box. Makes it easy to tighten.

FOR SURE move the wires under the carpet on both outboard sides just in front of the seat mounting bolts. I'm not sure what they are for, but if you don't move them, those wires will get crushed for sure. They are held in place with plastic wire holders that plug into the floor. I popped them out and put Second Skin over the holes and used a strip of same to hold the wires in place.

Decide how much travel you want before you start tightening the extensions down. The new carriage bolts are in a slot that can give you between 2 inches and 3.25 inches ahead. Once you tighten the seat mount bolts, the new carriage bolts are too tight against the floor to move any more. I went with the minimum move, so you just move all the bolts full rearward in the slots. I would suggest either full front or minimum front so you can be consistent with your bolt placement without driving yourself nuts.

The last thing I learned almost bit me in the ass. If you are doing this by yourself, which I did, be careful of the female end of the seatbelt that sticks up through the middle of the longer rear seat section. When you are placing the seat back in place keep an eye on it's angle. You are already trying to look at 10 things at once to line everything up, I didn't notice, or think of, the seat belt. It had pivoted down and was stuck against the plastic panel that runs across under the rear seat. I pushed the seat into place and didn't take notice until I was ready to start tightening everything down. I definitely had a WTF moment when I noticed the bow in that panel. I'm surprised it didn't break it. That's the seat belt in the picture. Just a bit of a bow in it!! Thankfully it's pretty flexible.

View attachment 165299

You didn’t show the rest of the class your tie downs for abduc... PASSENGERS.
Plus that your cabin is 100% sound proof. Nobody outside can even hear the screams.

;-)
 
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