Haha. Lay out your evidence. Not your opinion. Your evidence.
How to get RCA Out on a 801A.
- Thread starter blk91gt
- Start date
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Haha. Lay out your evidence. Not your opinion. Your evidence.
Let me say this. If you have a compatible integration harness NOT an LOC, I’ll always recommend low level input. But when you start talking about virtually ALL AudioControl products, they design those products to interpret high level input into beautiful sound. There is absolutely zero degradation in signal quality between high and low level. There is only a volume differential which, when gains are set properly and power and ground is adequate, is a moot point.
i am just going off of 10 years of high end audio shop (and home theatre) experience back in the 80's and 90's and another 25 years of "enthusiast" level experience past then.
high level inputs change the sine wave. and in many cases, clip the wave causing distortion. we saw this with an scope back in the day.
anyone who has ever worked in any capacity if ever has the choice to use high level inputs, or low level inputs will 100% always use low level. That right there is all you need to know.
I am a pretty easy going guy, but high level inputs are the one thing when it comes to audio i just don't budge on. it is a band aid fix and should only be used as a last resort.
Back in the day when factory headunits had very questionable signal quality, I’d agree with you.
I have utilized an oscilloscope and rta on the oem Ford headunits for non-amplified 2015-2018 trucks. The sine wave clips at 29. Setting your gains utilizing volume level 27 with a 0db test tone eliminates any clipping or distortion of the sine wave. The volume is loud enough to make your ears bleed, your chimes aren’t overly amplified, the gains are set low enough to eliminate hiss.
I’m all about low level output in the right applications, I believe in it. Hell, I run optical in my truck. But for what we are trying to achieve in this thread and for the quality of signal that the oem ford headunit produces (can’t speak for other vehicles-haven’t measured them), you won’t hear any discernible difference in signal quality nor will you see it graphically.
Correct!
zombiekiller
OG BooBooRunner
@dhmcfadin you really seem to know your stuff!
I have a question for you. I have the B&O stereo in my truck.
I'm not car audio savvy, so I'm a bit lost.
I need to get either an RCA or aux out to feed into an intercom system for my comms set up.
How would you go about making this happen?
I really don't have a big interest in messing around with the rest of the stereo, as I can't hear it once I'm doing more than 60-70 mph anyway ( even with the volume cranked) and it won't get any better once the cage goes in.
The intercom that I'm planning to use has DSP for noise cancellation built-in, and I want to avoid injecting any hissing, etc into the intercom system from shoddy cabling or input mechanisms for the tunes.
All I really want is the audio, my phone rarely works out in the desert anyway.
TIA
I have a question for you. I have the B&O stereo in my truck.
I'm not car audio savvy, so I'm a bit lost.
I need to get either an RCA or aux out to feed into an intercom system for my comms set up.
How would you go about making this happen?
I really don't have a big interest in messing around with the rest of the stereo, as I can't hear it once I'm doing more than 60-70 mph anyway ( even with the volume cranked) and it won't get any better once the cage goes in.
The intercom that I'm planning to use has DSP for noise cancellation built-in, and I want to avoid injecting any hissing, etc into the intercom system from shoddy cabling or input mechanisms for the tunes.
All I really want is the audio, my phone rarely works out in the desert anyway.
TIA
With the B&O, it’s an all or nothing deal. B&O uses a digital a2b comm protocol so there are no physical channels running from the headunit to the factory dsp/amp. Only USB. As a result, when you want to modify the b&o, you have to replace the factory dsp/amp with an integration module like the NavTV EN A2b. Then you have to add an amp, etc. Going this route requires you to replace your entire audio system.
If I was you, I would leave the stock system in place and run your comm system independent of the oem system. The center dash tray has a ton of room for a full size speaker and that cubby in front of the shifter has space for your comm hardware. Being that your comm speaker would be dead center on the dash and reflecting off the windshield, you’d be able to hear everything you need to when ripping around the desert.
If I was you, I would leave the stock system in place and run your comm system independent of the oem system. The center dash tray has a ton of room for a full size speaker and that cubby in front of the shifter has space for your comm hardware. Being that your comm speaker would be dead center on the dash and reflecting off the windshield, you’d be able to hear everything you need to when ripping around the desert.
zombiekiller
OG BooBooRunner
with the intercom + VHF radio setup, we'll be using headsets and PTT buttons for VHF. This means that any external speakers are kind of useless since the headsets also have noise-canceling and DSP.
I was hoping to be able to output from the head unit for music, so I could just continue to plug my phone in for android auto ( and use the steering wheel buttons to control it), but I guess it sounds like the best thing to do would be to load music onto a different device. While my phone is capable of it, it does weird things when I try to run android auto and also keep the BT connection from phone to intercom.
oh well, Time to install a small tablet for tunes in the dirt.
There you go. I like your alternative! Wish I could be more helpful.
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