Hi-Lift Jacks

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frogslinger

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as requested by the big boss man here;

In the Lexicon of offroading there are few Items as useful or as feared as a Hi-Lift jack.

This tool is ubiquitous amongst serious offroaders for one reason; it is possibly the most versatile tool available to you in the boonies. It also has the ability to kill you.

The Hi-lift jack most obvious use is as a jack. They are designed simply for lifting, not supporting or stabalisation, so it is critical to chock tires and set brakes before using the jack. The base of the jack should be placed on a firm surface, or on an offroad base, large piece of wood or 1/4 inch or thicker metal. The jack can then be used to lift ONE wheel. Although the jack can lift more than one wheel, the resulting load will be extremely unstable and can shift, damaging the vehicle, the jack and injuring or killing the operator.

The Jacks key offers a few advantages whilst jacking... the lifting nose can be slid up and down to the desired position until a load is applied, speeding up the jacking process... the jack has a long handle that allows for torque multiplication... the jack can deal with vehicles with far larger than OE tires...

It does however have disadvantages... if used incorrectly the handle will swing under load with the force of a baseball bat... the jack is far larger and heavier than a conventional jack... the jack requires either special attachments or a solid point for jacking that may not be available on most modern vehicles.

The jack offers the advantage that it can be used as a clamp... depending on the model purchased the top of the jack can clam against the lifting nose, or an attachment can be bought to fill this requirement.

The with the jack reversed it can also be used as a spreader or Jaws of life, to extract trapped passengers from an overturned vehicle.

The main reason that I will always carry a Hi-Lift in a 4x4 is that it can double as a come-along or winch. With the addition of custom accesories or an Offroad Kit, the jack can leapfrog over itself without releasing tension pulling a load along the entire length of whatever chain is being used, unlike a come along that may need to be reset. Without the ORK the jack can still be used as a winch/come along, however it is far slower and tiring.

Couple of vids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOcQHqLx90g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9mqMTS8C_8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nlb32KFRD7I
 

NoCaDiver

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That's some good information frogslinger. I've always heard of them but never knew they had so many uses. Thanks.
 

MagicMtnDan

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Other than the non-jack uses, I don't see the hi-lift jack being all that useful for Raptor owners. There are few, if any, lifting points suitable for a hi-lift jack and they're just not that safe to use (maybe it's better to say that they can be hazardous to your health and require caution and experience when using them).

I'd much rather have the inflatable air bag jack.

air_jack_450.jpg
 

BigJ

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Great info frog, thanks for posting it up.

How does one determine a "suitable" lifting point? Obviously the pads are good to go, but can't you pretty much go with any framerail? Our frames are boxed and can take the stress of a properly footed hi-lift, no?
 

MagicMtnDan

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Hi-Lift Jacks

With over 100 years of quality, the Hi-Lift Jack is a rugged, highly versatile jack that puts you in command of situations requiring lifting, pushing, pulling, winching, and clamping. Although light in weight and easy to maneuver, the Hi-Lift Jack offers a rated capacity of 4,660 lbs (2114 kg) and a tested capacity of 7,000 lbs (3175 kg).

Only Hi-Lift Jacks are made with a two-piece handle and socket design that is built for extended life. Cheaper imitations use a one-piece design that bends easily if lateral pressure is applied while lifting a load.

Our jacks are designed to help you survive in the most demanding situations – whether you are in the Moab desert canyons, the Welsh Mountains, the Amazon jungle, or the farmlands of Indiana. With a full-range of specially designed accessories, the Hi-Lift jack is just about the most versatile piece of off-roading/farm/auto recovery equipment you can buy.

When it's a heavy-duty situation, the tool had better be a Hi-Lift!

Hi-Lift Jack Specifications
•Approximate weight: 30lbs (14 kg)
•4,660 lbs (2113.74 kg) rated capacity
•Tested capacity 7,000 lbs.
•Climbing pins of specially processed steel with 125,000 PSI tensile strength and 100,000 PSI yield.
•Steel bar is manufactured of specially rolled extra high carbon steel with 80,000 pound minimum tensile & carbon .69 to .82.
•Steel handle of 14gauge high-yield structural tubing with minimum yield of 55,000 PSI. 1 5/16" diameter x 30" long.
Hi-Lift Jack Features
•Every Jack comes complete with an adjustable top clamp/clevis for use in clamping and winching.
•Safety bolt is designed to shear at 7,000 lbs. (3175 kg)
•For speedy disengaging, lifting unit automatically drops away when load is removed.
•4 1/2" (11cm) long lifting nose for positive contact with load.
•Steel bar can be reversed for extra long life.
•Low pickup of 4 1/2" (11cm).
•28 square inch base plate.

Source of above info: http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/index.html

All manner of accessories here: http://www.hi-lift.com/accessories/index.html
 
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frogslinger

frogslinger

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There are some accessories useful if you're using a Hi-Lift Jack. One of them is this base.

5148Q4K27CL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Hi-Lift Jack ORB Off-Road Base

$35.09 each at Amazon.com
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00042KJQ4/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

It's indispensible if you're using a hi-lift jack and it's better than using a piece of wood.

Yeah I referenced that and linked it in my original post... Honestly I think it is a little expensive for what you get... you are probably better off using a 18 by 18 peice of 1/4 inch steel plate... if you are worried about slippage there are one or two simple ways to attach the footing securely to the base... the easiest being bolting it down. Wood would definitely be my last choice of a support, however the wooden landing gear pads we use to prevent loaded trailers sinking in the mud support 10s of thousands of pounds, so a little raptor should not be a problem.

Other than the non-jack uses, I don't see the hi-lift jack being all that useful for Raptor owners. There are few, if any, lifting points suitable for a hi-lift jack and they're just not that safe to use (maybe it's better to say that they can be hazardous to your health and require caution and experience when using them).

I'd much rather have the inflatable air bag jack.

air_jack_450.jpg

The airbag has definate advantages... it is slightly more stable, less likely to tire you out out and has a high cool factor. It however requires an air source or running motor, and is as Elton Brown would say, a unitasker. The HiLift has some issues with a stock raptor, no doubt, and I cannot confirm any lifting points as I do not have a truck to work with ATM, however I am reasonably certain you can jack the rear end up using the receiver... place the jack on or in the vicinity of the tow hook on the side you want lifted, and you are golden. In front is more of an issue... but not much of one. Hilift has a bumper lift that I would NOT recommend with this truck as I do not think the stock bumper is strong enough. there is also an attachment for lifting by the wheel that runs 25-35 dollars which will work well, and I will be prototyping a tool to work with the front end of our trucks based on the t-lift... if it works out I will either publish the specs or do a group buy if that is authorised.

Great info frog, thanks for posting it up.

How does one determine a "suitable" lifting point? Obviously the pads are good to go, but can't you pretty much go with any framrail? Our frames are boxed and can take the stress of a properly footed hi-lift, no?

Any point you would use a regular jack on will work if you can get the jack to reach it... because of the tall stand you cannot put the jack under your vehicle and start jacking like you can with a scissor, bottle or race jack. As mentioned above the rear end should not be a problem, but the front end may be trickier... as I said I am working on two or three ideas for a solution.
 

MagicMtnDan

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Great info frog, thanks for posting it up.

How does one determine a "suitable" lifting point? Obviously the pads are good to go, but can't you pretty much go with any framerail? Our frames are boxed and can take the stress of a properly footed hi-lift, no?

One could lift the Raptor most anywhere on the frame IF one could get the Hi-Lift jack underneath it. The Hi-Lift jack is a high lift jack because of the tall bar which, unlike a bottle jack (or an air bag) doesn't fit underneath any part of a typical vehicle. As you can see from the picture below of a hi-lift jack in operation lifting a Jeep, the bar must be alongside the vehicle with the Cast Top Clamp Clevis doing the lifting underneath a lifting point.

Important note - Hi-lift jacks are useful as jacks when you have an exterior lifting point(s) to access on the vehicle. They are frequently used on lifted Jeeps and trucks but when using a hi-lift jack to remove a flat tire the user will typically have to chain the axle to the body so the axle goes up when jacking otherwise the hi-lift jack will simply demonstrate how much suspension travel the vehicle has. This necessitates carrying a length of chain (or strong belt, etc.) just for this purpose. You can see this in the picture below - the jack is engaged with the vehicle and lifting has started but the Jeep's tire is still on the ground and there isn't much travel remaining on the Hi-Lift Jack's bar (vertical bar). This is what often makes using the Hi-Lift Jack more risky since it will often require a LOT of vertical travel (lift) to get the tire off the ground even when the axle is strapped/chained to the body being lifted.

0905_4wd_07_z+trail_tools_list+hi-lift_jack.jpg
 

MagicMtnDan

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The HiLift has some issues with a stock raptor, no doubt, and I cannot confirm any lifting points as I do not have a truck to work with ATM, however I am reasonably certain you can jack the rear end up using the receiver... place the jack on or in the vicinity of the tow hook on the side you want lifted, and you are golden.

In front is more of an issue... but not much of one. Hilift has a bumper lift that I would NOT recommend with this truck as I do not think the stock bumper is strong enough.

There is also an attachment for lifting by the wheel that runs 25-35 dollars which will work well, and I will be prototyping a tool to work with the front end of our trucks based on the t-lift... if it works out I will either publish the specs or do a group buy if that is authorised.

Sure you could use the Hi-Lift Jack on the receiver but you'll be lifting the entire rear end of the truck. Not something I want to contemplate let alone do.

The front bumper definitely is not going to be able to be used as a lifting point.

Yes, the Hi-Lift Jack can be used to do a number of things but lifting the Raptor to remove any one of the four tires is probably not going to be what it will do best for us. Sure it can be used with accessories but until they are developed and proven to work I suggest other alternatives including the stock jack and aftermarket bottle jacks as well as the airbag lift.

I know Hi-Lift Jacks are very popular and versatile tools but the risk of the vehicle moving and falling while lifted high as well as other risks (fingers have been removed by the jack and the jack handle has caused its share of injuries as well) make using these things risky and not always the best solution.

I'm not anti Hi-Lift Jacks. I just like the idea of using the best tool for the job and, IMO, so far the Hi-Lift Jack is not it for the Raptor. So far.
 
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