Heat not working :(

[1BAD454SSv2]

Damper door actuator ?? Are heaters hoses hot going into the firewall? If they are hot, i would guess Damper doors. See pic circled red

 

[smurfslayer]

or the diverter that sends coolant into the h/c.

serious question though, is the A/C stuck on? if you turn vents to full cold but don’t turn on a/c, is it colder than ambient?

Although I am seriously dated in terms of modern vehicles in this regard, I did have an old Chrysler - don’t judge, I was poor at the time. Anyway, when I got it the a/c didn’t work. I knew a guy who helped me diagnose the leak, procure the right parts and I replaced them and charged it up.

AC was awesome for months. Until late September rolled around when I needed heat and found I couldn’t get any! Unfortunately, I never quite made it to winter. The car was replete with little issues, and one night on the way home it started overheating, a popping sound ensued, and temp went to red in like a mile. I blew out a freeze plug. I got it repaired but that didn’t fix the overheating or no heat issue. I gave up on it a little later.

I don’t think your original problem description is abnormal given your lower ambient temps than the rest of us, who live in climates where humans were meant to live ;-) Once you’re moving and bathing that radiator in sub 50 degree temps, the radiator will cool that truck right down. My former Ducati 1198 wouldn’t break 160 if it was 50F or below, even when I was caning it pretty hard, it might get to 165, and then fall right down into 150s.

 

[Danactive]

Well I just burped the coolant and topped it off and took her for a longer than around the block drive and the heat is back! Thinking it was definitely the thermostat but the reason it didn’t work right away was due to the burping and topping off multiple times. Thing took the whole jug! Thanks for the responses and thus another reason I love being back in a Rap!

 

[FordTechOne]

@FordTechOne any suggestions? Can a blend door cause a problem on a Gen 2?

Not likely.

There may be air trapped in the heater core, here is the WSM bleed procedure:

Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Turn the climate control system off.
Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line.
Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
Repeat steps 34 through 36 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the degas bottle.
Install the pressure relief cap until it contacts the hard stop.

 

[Danactive]

Not likely.

There may be air trapped in the heater core, here is the WSM bleed procedure:

Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Turn the climate control system off.
Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line.
Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
Repeat steps 34 through 36 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the degas bottle.
Install the pressure relief cap until it contacts the hard stop.

Where does one get the degas cap?

 

[FordTechOne]

Where does one get the degas cap?

That's just the coolant reservoir cap. The reservoir on this type of cooling system is called the degas bottle.

 

[Danactive]

That's just the coolant reservoir cap. The reservoir on this type of cooling system is called the degas bottle.

Thank you!

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

damn, 10 times?

 

[Danactive]

Not likely.

There may be air trapped in the heater core, here is the WSM bleed procedure:

Install the degas bottle cap until it contacts the hard stop.
Turn the climate control system off.
Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line.
Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
Repeat steps 34 through 36 a total of 10 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.

Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and, if necessary, fill to the top of the MAX FILL line on the degas bottle.
Install the pressure relief cap until it contacts the hard stop.

Thank you! I only had to do it a couple times and it seemed to work. Do you know what the actual temp the vents should be blowing out? I was told around 125 degrees with the heat on full blast but this being the first time I’ve had to use the heat I have nothing to compare it to. My Tacoma was like a sauna but that’s not a fair comparison. Thanks again for the detailed help!

 

[FordTechOne]

Thank you! I only had to do it a couple times and it seemed to work. Do you know what the actual temp the vents should be blowing out? I was told around 125 degrees with the heat on full blast but this being the first time I’ve had to use the heat I have nothing to compare it to. My Tacoma was like a sauna but that’s not a fair comparison. Thanks again for the detailed help!

There’s no spec, diagnostics just indicate that the heater core inlet hose should be 150 degrees or higher at normal engine operating temperature.