Having cam phaser replacement (21N03) done next week... looking for info about body removal

Ski4Ever

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My dealership has finally (9 months after I brought it in for the 21B10 PCM reprogram and it didn't fix the problem) gotten me scheduled to have the cam phasers replaced under 21N03 next week. I've heard that's going to require the body to be separated from the frame. Is that true? If so, how do they handle disconnecting any aftermarket electrical wires (for any lighting/power that I've installed)? I'd be happy to do it myself, but not sure what really needs to happen exactly. And, I'd rather not go through it if it's not necessary. Do you guys have any recommendations/hints/suggestions? What would you do? Thanks!
 

2020FordRaptor

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My dealership has finally (9 months after I brought it in for the 21B10 PCM reprogram and it didn't fix the problem) gotten me scheduled to have the cam phasers replaced under 21N03 next week. I've heard that's going to require the body to be separated from the frame. Is that true? If so, how do they handle disconnecting any aftermarket electrical wires (for any lighting/power that I've installed)? I'd be happy to do it myself, but not sure what really needs to happen exactly. And, I'd rather not go through it if it's not necessary. Do you guys have any recommendations/hints/suggestions? What would you do? Thanks!
What have you installed? That will help us answer.
 
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Ski4Ever

Ski4Ever

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What have you installed? That will help us answer.
Here's a list of everything I can think of:
  • 3 sets of lights in the front bumper, connected to upfitter switches.
  • 1 set of ditch lights on the A-pillars, connected to an upfitter swith.
  • 1 set of reverse lights mounted near the rear tow hooks, connected to an upfitter switch. These wires run from the upfitter switch wires under the hood, through the frame to the back, where they come out and are then tied into a relay that's also connected to the reverse light pigtail so that the lights automatically come on any time the reverse lights are on, but can also be turned on via the switch.
  • 1 LED strip under the hood with a switch so that I can light up the engine bay.
  • 1 12V outlet in the bed. I believe this wiring also goes through the frame, but can't remember, as it's been a while since I've looked at how I did it.
I don't think my dealership removed the cab to do the work. plus it only took them 3 days.
Yeah, I think they said to expect 3 (or maybe 4) days. That would be awesome if they didn't have to remove the body! Maybe I should check with the dealership and see if I can actually talk to someone who would know for sure if they have to remove the body. Out of curiosity, what dealership did you go to (since your username is @ColoradoBoss, and I assume you're in Colorado also)? I'm going to Sill-TerHar.
 
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ColoradoBoss

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Here's a list of everything I can think of:
  • 3 sets of lights in the front bumper, connected to upfitter switches.
  • 1 set of ditch lights on the A-pillars, connected to an upfitter swith.
  • 1 set of reverse lights mounted near the rear tow hooks, connected to an upfitter switch. These wires run from the upfitter switch wires under the hood, through the frame to the back, where they come out and are then tied into a relay that's also connected to the reverse light pigtail so that the lights automatically come on any time the reverse lights are on, but can also be turned on via the switch.
  • 1 LED strip under the hood with a switch so that I can light up the engine bay.
  • 1 12V outlet in the bed. I believe this wiring also goes through the frame, but can't remember, as it's been a while since I've looked at how I did it.

Yeah, I think they said to expect 3 (or maybe 4) days. That would be awesome if they didn't have to remove the body! Maybe I should check with the dealership and see if I can actually talk to someone who would know for sure if they have to remove the body. Out of curiosity, what dealership did you go to (since your username is @ColoradoBoss, and I assume you're in Colorado also)? I'm going to Sill-TerHar.
I used Phil Long Motor City since that's who I bought the truck from. They did damage the truck during repairs, said they would pay to fix it then backtracked and said I had to take it to their collision center. I know the work that comes out of that Gerber and it'll be worse coming out than going in. I will be forced to pay out of pocket to have the repairs done. My family owns a collision center so I will have it fixed through the shop once the valve cover is replaced.
 

Antho

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They pulled the cab for mine. I had wires ran to the upfitters but made disconnects. So they just disconnected them. If you are worried about it, Just disconnect the items before you take it in.
 

Rick Luna

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We had an XLT F150 that had camphasers done and they didn’t remove the cab. I would just ask, some have other ways. My service advisor said they didn’t remove the cab.
 

BBR

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They pulled the cab for mine. I didn't even think about the bumper lights but everything worked as they should when i picked it up.
 
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Ski4Ever

Ski4Ever

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Just a data point...when I dropped off the truck, they said they wouldn't need to pull the body. Everything went smoothly, and they finished in 3-4 days. It sounds SO much better now!
 
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