have u ever heard of a raptor shearing it's lugs? psst, yes

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tnole23

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edit: yes i know title should be its, unfortunately i didn't proof read that part.

first of all, the setup. 2011 supercab, method nv, toyo m/t 35. no other mods of note, kept fairly stock on purpose.

last year, i lost the back wheel. 5/6 lugs backed off, the last one sheared. makes sense, one left ain't gonna cut it. yesterday, lost front wheel. 6/6 lugs sheared. found the last 2 nearby where tire finally came off.

this isn't a story, i'm hoping people can help with suggestions. mechanic said aftermarket rims need hub centric rings. i've never heard of this, never heard anyone mention this, never seen a post about this. i searched today, and saw a post on here from 2013 (why i'm posting now) talking about the purpose of the rings and how they work. and the fact that lugs aren't designed to carry the load and that since they've never heard of a raptor shearing lugs, it must not be a big deal. well now you have. i'm sure there's more that goes into it, likely shop overtightened, maybe i undertightened, who knows. but they ALL sheared.

so, the suggestions. i had the method gorilla lugs, is there something better i should be using? does anyone have any insight or suggestions on the rings? maybe the sizes required (link?) for 17" methods on 2011?

any other comments or suggestions are encouraged. unless you're just gonna shit talk my maintenance, i've been wrenching for a very long time. i'm not trained or perfect, but i've worked on this truck the same i've worked on everything else, and it happening just on this truck isn't explained just by my error. while i'm sure it plays a part in some way, there's something else going on.

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Yes I have seen it several times mostly on raptor runs where people are pushing it harder when off-roading. It happens if the lugs are over-torqued usually by a tire shop using an impact and over time, lugs stretches and weakens.

But it is also due to the wheels being lug centric instead of hub centric. You are putting all the load on the lugs instead of the hub.

I personally would not mess with the rings. Get different wheels that are 87.1 hub centric. Method makes them, I am running the Trail series 701’s. And before that I was running the ICON Shield, both hub centric.

And the Gorilla lug nuts are just fine. I’ve been running them since I took off the crappy chrome cap stock ones.
 

dewalt

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On a hiway tractor the terminology is stud piloted or hub piloted. Hub pilot means all the studs have to do is hold the rim onto the hub that carries the load.
 
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tnole23

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Yes I have seen it several times mostly on raptor runs where people are pushing it harder when off-roading. It happens if the lugs are over-torqued usually by a tire shop using an impact and over time, lugs stretches and weakens.

But it is also due to the wheels being lug centric instead of hub centric. You are putting all the load on the lugs instead of the hub.

I personally would not mess with the rings. Get different wheels that are 87.1 hub centric. Method makes them, I am running the Trail series 701’s. And before that I was running the ICON Shield, both hub centric.

And the Gorilla lug nuts are just fine. I’ve been running them since I took off the crappy chrome cap stock ones.

unfortunately, i don't get to go off road ever, just crappy roads to and from work. can't imagine it's the street queening. now the torque thing, that's the only thing i can imagine. i'll look into new rims, not sure how that'll go. anything i can do in the meantime that would be effective? would retorquing after every couple drives ensure proper tightness? or is this just a design flaw that needs to be removed?
 
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tnole23

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On a hiway tractor the terminology is stud piloted or hub piloted. Hub pilot means all the studs have to do is hold the rim onto the hub that carries the load.

i hear that here and there. think i'm getting confused. i looked up the rings after this whole thing, and the rings specifically say "not designed to carry load". so are the intent of the rings different than hub centric rims? seems like others agree with you regarding hub centric wheels, and they do ALSO carry load. are the rings just meant to perform the centering function of hub centric wheels, just not the load part of it?
 

dewalt

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I do not know. Stud piloted hiway tractor rims are weak. You need a hub piloted forged rim for maximum strength. Most aluminum rims are cast aluminum
 
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You can get a set of wheels for around $800 and stock take offs for even less. What is the issue on just replacing them?

Its going to be more trouble having to replace all your lugs but you gotta do it

If the rings fit tight and offer no slack they should work but like I said, I would rather replace the wheels
 
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tnole23

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You can get a set of wheels for around $800 and stock take offs for even less. What is the issue on just replacing them?

Its going to be more trouble having to replace all your lugs but you gotta do it

If the rings fit tight and offer no slack they should work but like I said, I would rather replace the wheels

issue? issue is that it's not free. i have lots of things i'd rather spend the money on. if it's gonna keep happening, sure, i get it. but i'm looking to see if there's a reason it may be happening, cuz i'm sure lots of people have lug centric aftermarket rims with no issues. and if i can just be more rigorous in maintaining proper torque to alleviate the issue, i'd rather do that and not waste the money. i don't mind spending it, but only if i really need to. and i have my stock rims, with the stock tires.

i've been shopping for the hub centric options, there are a couple. method lists theirs at 87mm, my hub is 87.1, i'm assuming that's just method being lazy and rounding, everywhere says those fit. rhino has one also.
 
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